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Slow Response Time for Tractor Point
Website Operations Howto
Replies 41 Post by taheide

A lot of the things mentioned here would cause an uproar at the dieselstop forums. :) The K&N is a big one when it comes to the stroke, some like it, others knock it. First of all, the airbox on the 2000 needs to go if you use a K & N, they dont seal well, and have dusted many many turbos. Even factory filters have caused dusting of the turbos. One thing to check when you replace the air filter is the inside of the boot going towards the turbo for any dirt or dust, if you see that, you may already have done too much damage, there should be NO dirt in there, maybe a fine coating of oil, but it should be clean oil, no gritty feel to it. Second thing, the injectors are fired by the oil, there is a HPOP on top of the engine that is fed by the LPOP. If for some reason the check valve gets gummed up, the oil level in there can drop and make cold starts a chore. Third, if you ran 125K mile without putting in any kind of diesel treatment, the injectors MAY, I say MAY, depending on the quality of the fuel, be dirty and that would cause poor starting. The best trick I have found to start my 99 PS is to turn on the ignition, wait for the light to go off, then turn it off and back on and the second time the light goes out, crank it over, 9 out of ten times it will fire right off, if not, I repeat the procedure and it fires right off.
As far as milage, what are the RPMs at when doing 70 MPH? If they are over 2000, then you dont have 3:73's or your overdrive isnt engaging. I have 4:10s on mine, and I get anywhere between 14 and 16 MPG depending on how I drive. Best I got was 18 going through indiana. Not bad for an 8000 pound brick. Best mods to start with, Gauges, tranny temp, boost and EGT, Intake and exhaust. Heard lots of good things about tymar, and the new FIPK from FORD for an intake setup, and a 4 or 5" exhaust. I went with a 5" Hypermax exhaust, it starts 3.5" off the turbo and goes to 5" right under the cab. The muffler is a free flow type that had a baffle in it, note I said had :), Knocked it out before I installed it. I havent replaced the airbox yet due to financial restraints, but it seals very well for a factory box so I am not concerned about it, it is an early 99 with a 99.5 airbox, must have been a cusp truck. I use early 99 filters because they fit much better and seal very good. Blackstone reports concur with very low silicon levels. Currently my boost gets up to 19 PSI, better than most with a stock intake. Only reason I have not chipped it is due to the flaky tranny, I dont feel like destroying it, cant afford to bulletproof it yet. Finally, the way it runs after it starts is not good, does your EBV kick in after its stable? Lots of smoke when it idles? It could be the batteries, they are due for a replacement, the ones in mine are originals and I know they are due to be replaced, I can only crank for about 10 seconds before it winds down, but they are holding up ok, but I notice that it takes longer to start now when it gets really cold, so a set of Optimas are in the works. Like others have stated, the GP's can also be an issue, if a few are out of wack, that would cause intermitant fires during the first few minutes of running due to a few cold cylinders. I used to drive a Mack Superliner, and I remember some very cold starts where it would be running on 2 or 3 cylinders for minutes at a time before they all started firing, leaving smoke rings out the stack during that time, was quite fun to watch. And to think it was plugged in during the night, probably would not even fire off had it not been plugged in. Are you plugging in?

Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 27 Post by taheide

I cant see putting out the extra expense on Synthetics when Rotella T does such a fine job. Besides, I dont of anyone who would go with extended drains on a tractor. It is best to follow the guidelines for oil change intervals on tractors mainly due to the fact that they rest more than they run, which allows moisture to build up in the crankcase, which no matter which oil you use, synthetics or dino, you still have the same results.

Fact of the matter is, I have a 99 F350 Dually Diesel that I run strictly rotella T in, and get blackstone reports for almost every oil change and my intervals run from 5500 to 9500 miles between and the results are always within specs, with little wear, and low soot.

Motor Oil
John Deere Tractors
Replies 21 Post by taheide

#6 screws are about the same diameter as roofing nails, so they should not be a problem.

vinyl siding
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 32 Post by taheide

I know, old topic, but .02 is .02 for others who may read this.

I have a B2410 that I use for my horse farm, and needed a tiller, so I decided to look at what Farm and Fleet had. They carry all King Kutter stuff now, so I happened to show up when they had a sale on the tillers. I got me a 60" KK tiller, gear drive. I found that my quick hitch made the shaft too short, so I found a PTO extender and welded that to the shaft on the gear box. So far I have tilled about an acre of very hard rocky soil, full depth on the first pass with hardly a strain on the tractor, so it does its job quite well. As for the paint, well I have 4 KK attachments and everyone of them has lost some paint here and there.

One BAD thing about KK attachments, getting support from the company, very slow and they tend to dont give a crap. I sent an email asking where I can find touchup paint and they blew me off saying go to where you bought it, and left it at that. Hell if the place I bought it had the paint, I wouldnt be ASKING!

Tillers And I thought choosing a tractor was tough
Operating and Attachments
Replies 19 Post by taheide

I did the same thing with my place, made it into a horse farm on 5 acres. I bought a B2410, and it does the job nicely, though for round bales, it is a bit on the low side since my farmer neighbor tends to pack the bales really tight and they are ratnher heavy, so mine cant pick them up on either the front or back lift, they weigh in at ~1100#. So far that is the ONLY limitation I have found with mine, it handles every chore I toss at it, 6' finish mower, 5' tiller, 6' grader blade, 6' landscape rake, and a 5' box scraper. Traction is the limiting factor I found with the blades, other than that, it will pull that 6' finish mower through grass as tall as the front tires without too much problem.

Opinions on 2210 Compact Tractors for a new buyer
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by taheide

Over 190 hours on my B2410 since I got it 2 years ago. Cleaning stalls is much easier, just toss the crap out into the aisle(concrete floors) then scoop it up with the bucket and move it out to the pile. The pile is well over 8' tall by now and at least 10'wide by 20' long. Try moving a wheelbarrow up that! The past weekend and this last weekend I spent time putting in an arena. It is 80' x 140', and got 8 truckloads of ag-lime dumped in there. Spreading with a landscape rake and the bucket sure is much easier than doing it by hand! Also mowing 3 acres of grass is much easier. I would say it has been the best purchase I have ever made.

OK How do you Justify your Tractor
Kubota Tractors
Replies 33 Post by taheide

Studs?

Winter traction on a Kubota B2910
Kubota Tractors
Replies 17 Post by taheide

When I first shopped for a pickup, I gave all three a chance, equally and unbiased. I looked at Ford, pricing was OK, interiors looked nice, engines had the most torque. Looked at Chevy, body styles were ok, interiors looked cheap and boxy, fabric looked cheap as well, Engines had the most horsepower(fine for a sportscar, trucks need torque), pricing on par with Ford. Looked at Dodge, Pricing was too much, walked away. I wound up getting a Ford because the Dealer I went to gave me a good deal. The truck never needed any work done on it for the 36000 miles I had it, found a great deal on an F350 Dually and traded up, only reason I dont have the F150 anymore.

If you are looking for a towing Rig, Ford has the most torque and as of 2003 Ford has out towed the others up a grade. If you are looking to haul a load, stay away from a Dodge, they cant handle weight. I went to Home Depot one time to get 44 sheets of 1/2" drywall, and when the guy loaded my truck, he said he would not even attempt to load that much into a dodge. He had a customer with a 2500 that he loaded a pallet of shingles on it, and the front wheels came off the ground, and the rear bumper kissed the ground. Now isnt the 2500 a size up from the F150? I have heard similiar stories regarding dodge not being able to handle the weight that the Fords can. Dont know how the Chevy can hold up to it, but I am sure it is better than the dodge. Too bad Ford cant put a cummins in the Superduty, then it would be one Hell of a truck!

ford versus chevy
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 63 Post by taheide

Yooperpete, turbomax is corect about the converters. Some of the early 99's did have converter failures that involved the vanes blowing apart. Quite a few of them in fact. The tranny still worked, but the converter made a hell of a lot of noise.
They corrected the problem in the 99.5 model year, one of the reasons why there are early 99 and 99.9 models of the same truck. Many of the problems that were stated are from the ealy 99 models which were made between beginning of 98 to around 11 or 12 of 98. Some of which were the air box design which allowed dirt to enter, those are identified by the location of the intake which is drawn from the wheel well. That was corrected by a new air box which draws air from the front next to the battery. The front axle was redesigned with larger rotors and bearings. The turbo was redesigned, larger intake piping and a different turbo. There are also some items added to the engine management. You can spot an early 99 by either looking underneath for a cat, or see if it has the original airbox.

I have an 06/98 model that has the early turbo, but the later airbox. The front axle is also the later model. Some people prefer the early turbo to the later model, it spools up faster. I love my truck, it performs quite well for a diesel. So far I have replaced the exhaust with a Hypermax 5" turbo back unit(performance related, didnt need to be replaced), installed new ball joints with grease fittings, that eliminated the wander, a new waterpump, the previous owners did not flush the cooling system properly, so the seals leaked. Aside from normal maintenance, there is one other common thing that so far every model year has had an issue with, the rear pinion seal leaks. I have also heard of the drive line vibrating due to the center bearing angle, and shims correct that, but have not encountered it.

One last thing, check the KB retail price, you may find it right in line with what you are seeing at the dealers. Diesels really do have a high resale value, I got very lucky with mine, I paid 25K for it two years ago, and I still see them selling for close to that for my year, provided I see them at all. If you see one, and like it, be prepared to buy it, if you wait too long someone else will take it from you. Thankfully the person who tried to buy the one I got could not finance it.

2000 F250 SuperCab SD Diesel
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 14 Post by taheide

There is a huge difference between a 97 and 04. They totally redesigned the vehicle from the ground up. It is a nice looking truck, and if it is anything like the 01 I had, it will be very reliable. But as others have said, its a yuppie mobile. They dont have enough room for stuff in the bed when you get the supercabs and such, and when you look at the majority of them on the road, most arent even being used as a pickup.

I got an F350 Dually that I traded my F150 in on because I couldnt haul most normal remodeling goods without having to drop the tailgate. Just getting a door required either rolling up the tonneu cover, or dropping the tailgate and strapping the door down. Now I have room for 6 people and can haul 40 sheets of drywall with the tailgate up if I want to. :) Oh did I mention it also gets better fuel milage than the F150?

Worst Puchase Ever 2004 Ford F150
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 26 Post by taheide

You will need to learn to double clutch the granny to first and reverse to first, then you will be ok. The exhaust, if you have your windows open, you will smell it at a light, but not while driving, unless you have a short bed and the rear slider open. Get a creeper and crawl under with a flashlight. The good thing about diesel is the soot. If you have a leak, you will find it quickly. Check the joints from the manifolds to turbo and turbo back. On the 7.3, they tend to leak at the point where the left and right up pipes meet the turbo. They use donut gaskets and if the are not installed properly they will leak. Oh and capping the exhaust pipe to locate a leak on a diesel, heh, like that would help. That would usually stall out the engine long before you would locate the leak.

Diesel Truck Owners I need some information
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 8 Post by taheide

I dont know if Ford has better luck with the new transmissions in th 04, but on the older models, 99-03, the transmissions tended to bit the dirt long before the engine warranty ran out, and the extended warranties usually paid for themselves at that point. I have a 99 Dually, and at the time it was sold, extended warranties were not issued on Duallies. The original owner had the tranny go bad while on a trip with a travel trailer and put up such a stink with ford that they issued a warranty for 100K miles on it. The truck now has 102K on it and the second tranny is acting up, but may be programming related, which I tend to get reprogrammed in the next few weeks to find out before I wind up having to dish out 3K for a replacement.

With any luck, you will never need that warranty. Good Luck and enjoy your new Stroke.

Ford F250 SD Extended Warranty
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 4 Post by taheide

As insurance companies lobby more and more for this, you will see them in more vehicles soon. They can use them after an accident to determine who is at fault. Good idea, but also bad idea.

I had a 92 Vic with everything the police interceptors have except it included the rev limiter. It kept me at 112 MPH. :( A chip would have removed the limiter but at the risk of over revving the engine. That engine revved up extremely fast, I could tap the gas and hit the limiter while in park. I truely miss that car, but rust took it away from me :(.

Murf, you are one brave soul for going that fast in a Stroke! I get my dually up to 95 and I get a lump in my throat. I can't imagine going any faster than that in my big rig. I alos do not have the right seat speed limiter, I have a cant this thing go any faster in that seat. :)

Big Brother right around the corner
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 22 Post by taheide

For the Stroke, do it yourself, it really isnt hard, and you will save at least 20-40 $ depending on where you live. Get a 16 quart dump pan, Rotella T 15W40 and a Motorcraft filter from Walmart. You will also need a strap wrench to take off and put back on the filter, a 3/4" open end wrench, and a hammer and ice pick. Go to Blackstone.com and get a oil sample kit mailed to you and when you get it, chage your oil, take a sample after the first gallon or so comes out so you can get a record of engine wear for your warranty. Poke a hole in the bottom of the oil filter so it drains, and makes it easy to remove. Fill the filter with fresh oil and attach it, making sure it is nice and tight with the strap wrench, then fill the truck with the other 3 gallons of oil. I usually find that after filling the filter, I only need to add the other 3 bottles, and I then put the leftover from the filter fill into 1 quart bottles and stick those in the truck in case I need them. I usually write the date and mileage on the filter with permanant marker for my records and to know when the next change is due. Blackstone is now including the little tags for the next change that you put on your windshield. When you are done, fill the empty bottles with the used oil and take them to any parts store, they usually dispose of them for free(they make money on used oil). I dont trust quick lubes with my Strokes oil changes. A $9000 engine is something that needs to be taken care of properly, and since I was a mechanic for 5 years, I know better then the boys at the quickie lubes what should be done on these babies. Dealers are too expensive and some dont even put the correct oil in. Be very careful where you take a diesel for maintenance, the wrong antifreeze can destroy the engine, as well as the wrong oil.

SuperDuty Diesel Oil Change
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 6 Post by taheide

Ebay!

I second the dieselstop site. You can get a ton of useful information regarding the strok you have, including where to get replacement mirrors.

Need affordable parts -F250
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 14 Post by taheide

Kill two stones with one bird and get a maxi-dump trailer. You can haul your tractor in one of those babies. They have ramps built into them so they are dual purpose trailers. But if you do get one, I would highly suggest a 3/4 ton or bigger truck with a long wheelbase. I pulled one I rented with an F150 super cab short bed and when I got on this one wishy washy road the trailer decided to start swaying back and forth on me and I nearly lost it. I no longer have the F150, I traded it up to an F350 Crew Cab Dually long bed. I now can care less if the trailer sways, I dont notice it with this bigass bertha of a truck. :) Even fully loaded with the tiller on the tractor, FEL, and box blade and boom in the truck, I have to look back there to remind me I am towing something.

Truck VS Trailer
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 55 Post by taheide

did some searching today. Anyone have experience with the one sold by Northern tool? The Howse brand? Pricing seems ok. Also has the option for the chain type guard, which the KK didnt have.

5 rough cut mower for B2410
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 7 Post by taheide

Whats an MMM?

Mid
Mount
Mower.

Ahh havent found a need to purchase one, couldnt justify the expense.

Kubota B7800 Price Check
Kubota Tractors
Replies 64 Post by taheide

I can hereby testify as I type before you that the King Kutter 72" mower deck is worth the money you pay for it. I have had one for over 2 years now and other then bogging the darn thing down in very tall wet grass and eliminating the belt(oops) I have not had a single issue nor a complaint. It is a side discharge and I have found that in tall grass (greater then 8") it will leave a line of uncut grass where the middle and left blades meet, but other than that it does a nice cut, I found that removing the guard on the discharge side eliminates that problem( I dont recommend that if you have bystanders or nearby windows.). I slightly modified the 3pt on mine to fit my quickhitch by moving the links to the inside as opposed to where they were intended to go, and have not had any problems with it. I can hitch it up in about 5 minutes and be on my way cutting. There are grease fittings on every moving part, has multi position wheels, and even on my very uneven ground I seldom encounter scalping, there is one area that will scalp, but that is because it is alongside the road next to a ditch and has a heavy crown. One thing I tried was to put quick release clips on the wheels so I cuold easily adjust them, but found the clips can be removed by an errant bush and I wind up losing the wheel, first time Idid that I sucked it up with the mower and destroyed the tire and rim :(. Since then I have found I dont need to make adjustment and put the original pins back in. All in all it has been a very good buy for me and I expect it to last me a very long time.

Finishing Mowers A-Z
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 5 Post by taheide