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OK, time for me to express some contrarian opinions.

1) Yes, you need to use hydro fluid rated for wet brakes, hydrostatic transmission (if you have it), etc. But $50/gal???? Lordy, your dealer is taking you for a ride. How about $10/gal at Tractor Supply... The manual says STOU (super tractor oil universal) or even TOU is all that's required for a 7360.

2) I have a 7305 (30hp, hydrostatic transmission). It has about a 6 gallon reservoir for all hydro uses (and two filters; go figure...) - front power steering, hydrostatic transmission, hydro pump for all the accessories & 3 point lift, etc. Driving the tractor, especially if pulling a plow, is going to put more load on the hydro fluid than any log splitter will. Now, the 7360 has a gear-shift transmission but doesn't have an oil cooler. Anyway, [/b]I[/b] think worries about heat are overrated and a 15 gal reservoir isn't necessary.

3) Splitting wood is hardly a high duty cycle on the hydraulic system unless you're a lot faster than I am. And it certainly isn't a hydraulic motor, like you might have on a tiller, say. At best, you're doing a little better than 1 split per minute and there's only 'real' load on the rig for 25% of that time if you happen to have hard-to-split wood. I bet I'm pushing the hydraulics much harder when I'm using the backhoe - it's in constant motion when digging. So I think all this worry about heat, a small reservoir and abusing the pump is way overstated.

4) Is a pump on the PTO better? Well, you do have an isolated hydraulic circuit, so no worries about getting bad stuff in your tractor's hydraulic system. But you're still putting hours on the engine and the tractor's hydraulic pump is still pumping (there's no clutch on it), so seems to me shelling out for the PTO pump & building a reservoir &tc. isn't a good way to spend time and money vs. using the tractor's built-in capability.

5) Yes, a standalone splitter with a small gas engine is probably more fuel-efficient. However, I think you got the splitter for free (or close to it). You gotta burn a lot of extra diesel to match the $100s you're going to plow into adding a standalone engine & pump.

Cub Cadet 7360 addiing rear hydraulics
Cub Cadet
Replies 41 Post by chashm

On a line that returns to the tank, it shouldn't be a problem as there is no (or very little) back-pressure ever on this line.
If you're hooking the cooler in a line that might have real pressure on it, you're unlikely to find a cooler rated at 2000+ psi although I suppose you could fashion one out of steel line.

But why do you think you need one in the first place?

Rear Log Splitter Build Project Part 2
Tractor Projects
Replies 19 Post by chashm

I've never timed the glow plugs, but it's about 5 seconds and the time doesn't seem to be temperature-dependent. When it's 20 or below it takes maybe 10 seconds of cranking before the engine runs by itself. Above 40 or 50, it'll start within a turn or two.

Right now, I'm using 10W30 semi-synthetic, but I've used full synthetic in the past. My owner's manual (I have a 7305; manual covers 7260,7265&7300 as well) says 10W30 CD(or better) is correct for -4 to 86 F.

Cub Cadet 7265 Tractor hard cold start below 50 degrees
Cub Cadet
Replies 8 Post by chashm

The injector pump can be repaired. There's pages of detail near the end of the service manual ([l]http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/772-4207/772-4207.html[/l]) and most parts appear to be available (I use www.partstree.com to look parts stuff up). Again, if your dealer isn't up to doing a repair, maybe the Bosch guys are. Some variants of these injector pumps have a per-cylinder adjustment to balance the fuel injected but I don't spot this on the parts diagram; if they did, you definitely want somebody who has the right test stand.<br>
<br>
As far as hours, there's an hour meter on the dash (it really counts engine revolutions) - that's how you know when to do the routine service stuff like changing the oil.<br>
<br>
Chas

Cub Cadet Model 7235 will not start
Cub Cadet
Replies 36 Post by chashm

Hmmm. I haven't had to poke into my front axle, other than to change the oil. There's no guidance on fixing this in the service manual (http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/772-4207/772-4207.pdf), indicating that it's probably pretty much like any other oil seal.

My guess is you'll need a press of some kind to get the old seal out of the hub housing and to put the new one in. Generally this requires a pin that's close to the outside diameter of the seal and a press plate with a hole to fit the seal to take it out. The seal looks to have a flange on it, so you you press from the inside to remove and press from the outside (probably with no pin needed) to install the new one.

Once you get the hub assembly apart you can probably get either your tractor dealer or a local auto mechanic to put the new seal in for a few bucks - a lot less than hauling the tractor to them and having them repair it.

Consider ordering replacement o-rings for the hub assembly as well as the seal...

Cub Cadet 7265 gear oil dripping from front left
Cub Cadet
Replies 4 Post by chashm

Well, got around to draining the tank, flushing the lines and putting in new diesel. It runs great again!

Cub Cadet 7305 loses power after 15 minutes
Cub Cadet
Replies 2 Post by chashm