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The Curtis blade is likely to be your best option, both for availability and cost. My brother had an 855 for several years and I remember him saying that his only front blade options were heavy-duty "dozer" type blades with sub-frame attachment. I do not recall too many specifics, but I seem to recall him saying it was going to cost a couple thousand $. The newer, smaller JD CUTS and garden tractors have front hydraulic and quick-hitch attachments for front blades that are more in the $1,000 range and suitable for snow and light materials. I think the older dozer type blades were designed more for contruction work, which is a bit of overkill for snow.

SNOW BLADE AND CAB FOR 855
John Deere Tractors
Replies 4 Post by bigpete

Hi, dlgcustom. It sounds like you have already determined that price is your biggest factor, so perhaps I am wasting your time on a sermon that you have already heard. I can say--from personal experience--that paying several hundred more for a tractor from a dealer that will stand behind the machine may be worth it in the long run. If you trust the high-volumne, low-price dealer to stand behind the machine, and if that same dealer is convenient, then by all means this does not apply. In my case, I had a tractor with a chronic problem that was eventually "traded" for a new machine. I know that the low-priced, more distant dealer I had considered would not have gone the full mile with me to resolve the problem, and my higher-priced local dealer dealer was truly my partner in providing me satisfaction. Just thought I would throw a personal experience in here. BTW, I love my 4110 and could have gone with the 4115 if it were not for the longer wheel base/turning radius of the 4115. I spend a lot of my hours mowing and have plenty of trees to mow around. For open-field mowing, brush hogging and loader work, go for the 4115. Pete

Buying 4110 or 4115 help
John Deere Tractors
Replies 13 Post by bigpete

Well, I guess I missed the part about your dealer being 400 miles away. That is significant. That said,...

When I had an upright, non-folding ROPS, I modified my domestic landscape to accommodate the overhead passage. Now that I have a folding ROPS, I modify my overhead passage profile to meet my domestic landscape. I guess it's all the same in the end.

Heads up,
Pete

JD 4110 arriviall
John Deere Tractors
Replies 21 Post by bigpete

Hi, h20camper. I've always had a blade for snow and a FEL for everything else. Having both really is the best of both worlds, and the blade you have will amaze you in the snow. My $0.02 is to save up another $1,800. However, if I had to choose only one it would be the FEL. Pete

2210 FEL or 54 quot Blade
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by bigpete

Hi, stevenc. I meant the same thing you did when I said "...at the end of the loader arms." That is, where the loader arm quick attach sleeves are welded. I would'nt weld anything to the ends of the arms either. Also, if you use a gusset or reinforce the entire top edge you can avoid buckling the top edge of the bucket under load. I guess if I could do it all again I would do a combination of drankin's setup and grab hooks near the loader arm brackets. I like the versatility of the hitch setup, too.

Chain Hooks
John Deere Tractors
Replies 17 Post by bigpete

Doing your own maintenance doesn't void your warranty unless you use materials that are out of spec. Just buy the right stuff (I buy my supplies from my dealer), keep the receipts, follow the manual, and they must honor the warranty. Car warranties work the same way--just keep the receipts. I've had warranty work done on my tractors before (tranny) and the question of who did the maintenance was never asked. I suppose if a part wears out way before the expected failure time they might ask what kind of oil and filters you were using.

4110 50 HR - 240
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by bigpete

Sheesh...Wow...all that... I just read the whole thread and have a bit of a headache now. I shouldn't try to absorb all this heady stuff in one sitting.<br>
<br>
Bottom line for me, and what appears to be the majority (based in sales) of owners of the smaller frame CUTS is the convenience, comfort, and power still associated with the HST. If somebody were doing consistent or serious draft work, they wouldn't/shouldn't be buying a 4110 anyway. In addition, If I needed to put more power to the ground, I would NOT buy a 4110 gear to replace my 4110 HST. I would buy a 4210/4310 HST to replace my 4110 HST. Personally, I like having a free hand to wave at the pretty girls driving past my house on their way to the beach :~)

4110 Transmission
John Deere Tractors
Replies 44 Post by bigpete

Hi, ScooterMagee. I did exactly what you are proposing under slightly different conditions. My trade-in value ended up being effectively higher due to some concessions for inconvenience from a warranty issue suffered during most of the first year I owned the tractor. Ultimately, I kinda' wish I would have bought the bigger tractor in the first place, but have no real complaints with the 2210. The increased power/speed of the hydraulics along with the other items you mentioned were justification for me to choose an upgrade over a replacement for my 2210. The 4110 has quite a few other "deluxe" touches, such as cruise control and vibration dampening in the floor boards. Folding ROPS and swinging draw bar are a couple more. Good luck. If you can afford it (truly), go for it. If you can afford the next step up, go for it too. It really doesn't sound like you need much more than the 41XX, but who am I to judge. <8~) Pete

Move up from 2210 to 4110
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by bigpete

ScooterMagee, I have seen the breakdown of the Break-in oil and it's all gobble-dee-gook to me. The bottom line, according to JD corporate and my dealer's tech, is that it is a lighter oil without any detergents or additives that are normally added to the "high-end" oils--just like Denno said. This allows for PROPER wear during seating of the rings, etc. Per my dealer, and after verifying this throught JD, I changed my break-in oil at 25 hours and replaced it with fresh break-in oil. I ran that to 50 hours and then began running JD 15w-40 (on both my 2210 and now my 4110). I will probably change it again at 75 hours then move to a synthetic at 100 hours. All of the folks "in the know" I have talked to think it is a good plan, but probably not even necessary. I go a little over the top on my service for peace of mind. When in doubt, do what the manual says: change factory oil at 50 hours to 15w-40 for most applications. The factory oil is most definately break-in oil.

Breakin oil for 2210
John Deere Tractors
Replies 13 Post by bigpete

Art is correct to steer you to the wheelbase dimension for comparable machines. My 4110 has a turning radius of 7.5 feet without brakes, as opposed to the 7.5 turning radius of the 4115 using brakes. The cause is a significantly longer wheelbase and wheel/tire size on the 4115 (a good thing for many applications). The result in the 4110 design is a much smaller uncut patch of grass mowing with a belly mower with the steering locked (full limit of steering wheel). This is the essential reason I chose the 4110 over the 4115, i.e., I mow approximately 80-100 hours each year and I do dodge 50+ well-planned tree plantings. If I had to balance the "scale of utility" upward toward greater machine weight and PTO power, I would have a 4115 right now. The numbers will never lie to you and you should pick the machine and class that suits your primary use. Pete

TURNING RADIUS ON 4000 TEN SERIES
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by bigpete

Ballast is just as important on a 4110 as as any other tractor with a loader. The very design of tractors, as we know them, typically calls for the rear axles to take about 60% of the total distributed weight of the machine, its rider, and its payload. A properly engineered tractor is balanced to its most stable weight ratio without any weight on the front or rear. Add more balanced weight and lower the center of gravity and the tractor becomes more stable. Shift too much distributed weight foreward or rearward, or raise the center of gravity, and the machine becomes less stable. Of course there is a considerable tolerance for variation of the 60/40 ratio, but the bottom line is that every added pound of weight to one axle or the other should be matched on the other axle within a reasonable range. Of course there are other dynamics, such as the vertical and horizontal distance of the added load or counterbalance from the axle. This is why tractor companies provide us guidance in determining how much ballast to add to the rear hitch or in the wheels for added weight to the front. Common sense tells us that 1,000 added pounds in the loader will require more than 1,000 pounds of added counter weight at or near the rear axle simply because the loader weight is carried so far foreward of the front axle--leverage.

As to advantages and disadvantages of types of ballast or counterweight, you guys have hit them for the most part. For most "domestic" work, a counterbalance of a box blade with added weight or a ballast box will do the trick for smaller tractors. Filled tires is a better method of "carrying" ballast because it does not add additional weight to the axles and bearings of the wheels. In other words, there is no additional "down pressure" on the rear axle, but there is added resistance to the upward lifting forces of added weight to the front of the tractor. There are forces of inertia to overcome when redirecting engine forces to turn the wheels, or applying braking forces to slow down the wheels, but those are insignificant for this consideration. The down side to wheel balast is that it is not easy to remove when you wnat to tread lightly. To each his own, as long as there is enough weigh there. Since I mow and do non-loader work most of the time, I use my 400 pound box blade with 504 pounds of suitacse weights for most loader work. I run out of payload volume for most materials, even rock, before I become unstable with 900+ pounds hanging off the back of my 4110.

BALLAST BOX FOR THE 4110
John Deere Tractors
Replies 30 Post by bigpete

I typically spread at an engine RPM between 1800 and 2000, and adjust as needed, as you suggest. Once the "gate" is set, the material flow rate is pretty constant. This means the amount of material applied per square foot increases with a drop in ground speed or engine RPM. There is an agitator in my Befco that spins at a rate relative to PTO speed (engine speed), but most granulated materials are pretty free-flowing and the gate flow rate is not greatly affected by the agitator. I would guess that my broadcast width is a maximum of 15 feet, or so, and drops as you mentioned. If you are throwing the same amount of material in a more narrow path, you are applying at a higher rate....

4110 HST
John Deere Tractors
Replies 56 Post by bigpete

Vassar Farm Equipment makes a PHD for sub-compacts, as well. It's a little pricy and has a digging depth of only 32". It can turn a bigger auger, though. They sell a full line of "estate" size Cat 1/0 implements. Here's a link"

2210 attachements
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by bigpete

If you do intend to do some "excavation" with your loader, or even if you will just be digging up rocks, you should consider getting a tooth bar for the 53" bucket. I'm looking at a few options for a toothbar for my 53" bucket on my 4110, as well. The general price range seems to be $350-$500. I'm sure someone will chime in with some experience, or a link or picture. Pete

4110 HST
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by bigpete

Hey, Murray. I missed your question earlier. I'm not sure I would be the best person to ask, but I beleive the rear-to-front drive ratios are the result of a deliberate engineering objective and are not mechanically adjustable. Changing the rolling cirmumference of either fronts or rears will change the lead/lag effect, but the drive ratios are the comparative turning rates (revoluttions) of the front and rear drives. Therefore, they are what they are and the manufacturer can provide the ratios for any given tractor. I suppose somebody could drop in new gearsets or even a different axles. That would be more of a modification than a mechanical adjustment. Pete

2210 Steer Ratios
John Deere Tractors
Replies 21 Post by bigpete

Gary,

A quick comment: That doesn't seem like a very sincere/hungry/agressive trade-in quote from your dealer for your X tractor. Maybe I'm wrong about that, but if you want a better trade-in price for the X, you might take the opportunity to let your dealer know right now that his trade-in allowance might not allow you to buy new, or used, unless he can make sure you are getting some equity out of your trade-in. Don't forget to mention the BX option to him, even if you might have set it aside for now. Keep him honest. Pete

Trade X475 for 2210
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by bigpete

Hi, Tim. I trust you got the name of the person you spoke with in the event that you do have more problems. This is just me, but I like to formalize converstaions in writing, e.g "Dear Marsha Phoneperson, Thank you for your convesation on Feruary 13 concerning the documented, ongoing problems with my tractor. As we discussed , the machine has been in the shop on the following dates for the following problems <itemize dates adn problems>...I was disappointed that you were unable to do any more than offer to sell me an extended warranty.....I will retain a copy of this letter to support my continued request for a remedy to this unresolved situation...."

You don't have to take take my word for it, but if the worst case scenario comes about, all parties involved are going to ask for documentation. If you choose to write a letter now, you will prepare yourself for any unfortunate repeats of equipment failures. If you don't, it will be like starting all over again if any of the problems reccur. I repeat--after I documented my problems in a letter, things began to happen in favor of a resolution. IMO, you've got to put them on notice in writing. The sooner the better.

Ultimately, only JD's regional managers can offer to extend a warranty on a piece of equipment. Your dealer can request that extension for you and the RM would approve or deny the problem. When my machine was "repaired" and I insisted on a replacement, I was offered an extended warraty only on the affected area (rockshaft and housing) if I were to take back the repaired machine.

The CCC facilitates problem resolution and they don't really have any decision making authority, but they do make things happen--I testify. Perhaps they have a rule that, unless there is an existing problem, they cannot open a case file (if they not open one in your case). From what I recall reading, everything is currently operating on your machine. I wouldn't excuse them for their lack of formalizing you complaint.

BTW, as was mentioned above, the extended warranties are pretty much power train warranties. Your original warranty is the equivalent of a "bumper-to-bumper" warranty.

Pete

My 4410 with only 61 hrs died
John Deere Tractors
Replies 20 Post by bigpete

Hi, JDGreen. We must have posted almost simultaneously. I had this very concern and learned through a conversation with a corporate JD tech on the phone that the glow plugs cannot be "held" in the heating position with the ignition switch. He did say that you could burn them up by quickly repeating the procedure many times over. I wrote above that the plugs only heat for 1-2 seconds, but it's probably more like 2-4 seconds. It works but seems kinda' like an engineering after-thought or work-around. Pete

2210 Block Heater Install
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by bigpete

jdgreen, Those are the numbers I have, too. ---Pete

2210 vs 4110 axle capacities
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by bigpete

This post is really more about the replacement coolant issue, and in part about these types of installs. I do all my fluid service and leave most any work that can be directly related--later--to warranty work to the dealer. Having said that, I haven't ever bought a tractor that I didn't want to add something to a few months later, so I have added my share of stock accessories to my personal machines and some family farm equip. Having the dealer take care of adding such things as block heaters and additional lighting has probably eliminated a lot of grief for me. It is also customary for a buyer to leverage a few of these extras in as part of the deal.<br>
<br>
Anyway, I digress...but wanted to add that I always buy the fluids, filters, and maintenance parts exactly as specified in the manufacturer's documentation, unless there is an obvious or published error. I keep my receipts and know I will never have to worry about being challenged about a non-spec'ed product being the potential cause of a failure. I know, I know...it costs a little more, and it's a bit over the top. But if something mechanical goes wrong with my machines, my blood pressure remains constant as I show my receipts and try to be patient with the folks who will try to blame a problem on anything but a unit or design problem. So...<br>
<br>
...I recommend using JD (or your tractor brand) pre-mix coolant for all large quatity coolant replacements. The reason being, that I was informed by my very-astute and helpful dealer shop tech that water pump and cooling system failures under warranty can be challenged when an unknown dilutant is used in combination with (even) stock coolant concentrate. Imagine the reply from the JD tech rep disqualifying your warranty claim.... "..but Mr. Bigpete, we have no way of knowing the quality of water you used, or whether you followed the dilution ratios on the label, or whether you used water at all, or beer or, something else....sorry!" <br>
<br>
Guess this was quite a long road for me to recommend the use of pre-diluted JD coolant and keep your receipts. After the warranty is up, use your common sense and buy something of quality for your maintenance supplies.<br>
<br>
Pete

4410 Block Heater Kit Install
John Deere Tractors
Replies 20 Post by bigpete