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I guess it's pretty obvious that I don't think much of the 'over-pressured' explanation. I'd stay with the Kubota CS folks and maybe think that the dealer just used some convenient words. the works might not have come from a technical person.

Since the loader is now working, I would run the bucket to the limit of it's travel, continue to hold the valve open for a few seconds and listen for the relief valve. If the relief valve is working, there's virtually no possibility of pressures on the tube exceeding the system pressure. Irrespective of whether the system is obstructed and the relief valve stuck, components should be capable of withstanding the max pressure the pump could generate.

I also doubt that high-pressures from excessive loads were ever present. Keep in mind that pumps don't make pressure on their own. However, much higher pressures than the load itself can results from bumps hit while driving or dropped loads. However, the steel line is exposed to load pressures only while actually lifting. I suppose a lift or bucket could be made while the tractor was moving and a bump might be hit. A shock load would be generated. However, even if the relief valve was stuck, most loader valves have safety valves on the cylinder lines to protect against load shocks. 3PH's have safety valves as well, and typical safety relief pressures are around 3,200 lbs. compared to 2,200 lbs. for the system valve. If a loader valve is open, the safety valve would protect the steel line against high-pressure. Anyway, it's really stretching trying to reason that operation or even a combination of part failures could expose the line to pressures that it wasn't designed to withstand.

Metal hydraulic line burst B2400 Kubota
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 16 Post by TomG2

I bought my Ford 1710 used and the reason was that winter was approaching, I had to complete install a new underground electric service and couldn't get either an electrician or a contractor to come to the country. I got the tractor along with a backhoe to do the trenching and did the wiring myself.

I spent a lot of time talking at my wife rationalizing the price and I kept getting 'Why' questions. The 'Why's' produced more rationalization. She eventually said 'It's something you want and so we'll just get it. Don't worry about the price.' Guess she was tired of getting talked at.

Part of talking at my wife identified some on-going work for the tractor--construction, landscaping, drive maintenance and snow removal. Other uses just evolved. However, tractors are expensive and it's good to keep them busy. Otherwise at some point everybody involved is likely to start thinking about what else could have been done with the money. I'm not sure the description of uses for the tractor doesn't sound like it would be too busy but maybe there are some things that weren't mentioned. I'd also keep in mind that evolving uses for a tractor usually require implement purchases and there's always maintenance. Parts aren't cheap.

In terms of the choice: Used tractors even under warranty tend to have a price tag for curing somebody else's problems so I'd add a bit on the used tractor price. If tractors have to back to the dealer there are transportation costs and I'd find out what they are. I'd also figure if warranty service could be switched to a local dealer if that's an agreeable place to do business.

In terms of the tractors: They both are economy tractors without a lot of bells 'n whistles' so they are fairly comparable. The 33 probably has about 3 - 5 more PTO HP depending on whether it's the 33 with gears or the 33D with HST. HST's take power but are nicer to use and generally have lower maintenance costs, which makes a tractor with HST worth more. From the description of work for the tractor either of them should do it so I wouldn't worry a lot about power differences.

Old TC 33 or new TC30
New Holland Tractors
Replies 3 Post by TomG2

There is a bit of help in the archives from JD110 (searching on 'solenoid' in titles). There are other discussions but I can't recall the subject titles.

It sounds like the solenoid is doing its job of protecting against some safety condition. If those conditions don't exist, then the fault likely is in a safety switch or wiring. Guess that's pretty obvious and not much help.

A wiring diagram really is needed to make this sort of troubleshooting manageable. A wiring diagram can identify current paths, related circuits, test points and wire colour codes. Without a diagram what usually happens is that a wire on the unit that should have voltage is found but the wire disappears into a harness and there's no way to tell what happens to it or where it emerges.

Wish I could be more help. I did look and find a piece of an 850 diagram I had from an older discussion but the piece doesn't have a fuel solenoid on it. I hope that somebody who has a diagram can be of help.

starting problems with john deere 790
Parts and Repair
Replies 3 Post by TomG2

Tom: That's really good news! I was starting to feel like it was happening to me.

The solution ended being the same as for a problem discussed here some years back. A hose had deteriorated and clogged the filter. The filter was changed but the new filter also clogged. There was a lot of tinkering (mostly with the relief valve) before a third filter was put on. However, symptoms of the other problem were hot frothy oil and a 3ph that lost power after an hour or so rather than no flow. I guess that my final testing thought of yesterday would have found the problem, but just changing the filter was a lot less work. Sometimes black-box maintenance comes through when testing just takes a lot of time and aggravation.

Hopefully nobody ever needs this experience again. However, in terms of symptoms I think it takes a pretty big leak in the suction hoses of most tractors before a pump immediately looses its prime. Another older problem discussed here ended up being a crack in the filter housing. It too produced frothy oil rather than no flow.

The huge aggravation absorbed during all of this probably detracts a lot from the eventual satisfaction of finally getting it fixed. However, a bright side is that nobody started splitting the tractor.

Hydrolic malfunction
Parts and Repair
Replies 26 Post by TomG2

You might try getting the original Kubota part number for the ASI part and then trying to find the company. Even if the part is obsolete to Kubota it may not be to the manufacturer or there may be some remaining in inventory. There's a chance that the manufacturer would still be able to cross-reference a Kubota part number to their own number. Even if the manufacturer doesn't do a retail business, a local hardware store probably could order the part through their suppliers. Sometimes you might end up buying a bunch of them though. A bunch of them still might be less expensive than all the time needed to fabricate a pair from scratch.

Hangar Weldments for B7100 Backhoe Attachment
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by TomG2

Similar to Mark, I'm of the opinion that they're all good machines and the one that feels best probably is best. I'd add that the dealer who seems best could add a lot to the tractor's value for an owner.

The only objective tractor comparisons I've found are the Nebraska Farm Tests, but they're only conducted for farm tractors. The tests were legislated by the Nebraska legislature to provide farmers with objective comparisons since there weren't any then or now. Unfortunately, the legislation was intended to protect farmers so that leaves out compact owners. The test has a web site that can be interesting to go through to see how things are compared.

Regarding economy tractors. I guess I have one since it is a mid-80's Ford and tractors didn't have ' bells 'n whistles' then. The tractor has a 12x4 synchromesh TX that provides 3 forward and a reverse synchronized gears in each of 4 unsynchronized ranges. I'm very happy to have synchronized reverse gears for loader work and 4 reverse speeds for my 3ph snow blower. PTO implements require PTO engine RPM, and the TX is the only control over ground speed. It's good to have a bunch of gear ratio choices or a HST.

choices Kubota b2910 Deere 4310 NHolland TC30 35
Operating and Attachments
Replies 14 Post by TomG2

Most tractors do the same jobs. Little ones take longer for power work and big ones take longer for maneuvering work. I think it's good to choose a tractor with a view of the on-going work, 'cause it's likely to be with you for decades. The heavy building and landscaping generally is done in a couple of years. A person with a big tractor that did the landscaping fast but whose main long-term work is mowing may find themselves lumbering around trees and bushes leaving a lot of hand trimming and worrying about a heavy tractor tearing up the lawn.

I have a 24hp/2500 lbs. tractor for about 4-acres in two properties. I don't use the tractor for finish mowing because it's too big. A smaller one wouldn't do the material handling, digging and landscaping I need over the long haul and would take more time at snow removal than I'd like. The tractor also is too small for heavier work like building demolition we've done, but I don't mind contracting out heavier work. My object is to keep the tractor busy and a medium weight compact the best at what I have to do. My compromise is keeping a beater of a riding mower going.

A lot of people seem to like BX's with MMM's for finish mowing but they'd take longer to do loader and landscaping work than a larger tractor. BX's have fairly narrow 3ph's and people have reported that the lower link arms won't spread wide enough for some implements and standard top-link arms can be too long. I think these problems are manageable though.

Am I making the right choice
Kubota Tractors
Replies 15 Post by TomG2

No experience myself and I'm probably the only person who's happy with my puny 3ph hoe. It has done what I needed for over four years and I do avoid getting into power trips with it. Ease of mounting and lack of dealing with a permanent sub-frame on the tractor is the main reason I went for it.

I think I'd start off looking at the Kubota hoe. A less generic mount is likely to be designed for ease of use than after market hoes that are intended for many makes and models. Many older sub-frame and after-market mounts require removal of the 3ph lower link arms, which I would be a royal pain to me. I think newer JD hoes don't require removal of the link arms and actually use them to lift the hoe onto its mounts. Maybe the Kubota mount is similar.

Backhoe Rodeo Time Trials
Kubota Tractors
Replies 13 Post by TomG2

Bob: I just wonder how well a 1710 is going to do with an 8' blade that can't be angled?

I use a 5' loader bucket on my 1710/turfs on gravel before freeze-up and a 3ph blower after freeze-up. Angling the bucket down and trying to use it like a dozer blade doesn't work very well and makes the loader prone to damage if something is hit. It's not a very deep bucket and snow piles up in the top of the bucket and raises it when float is used. Without float it takes divots out of the gravel. Generally I use the bucket rolled back and in float. Used in this way it does leave some snow but the bottom of the bucket supports the loader weight so it doesn't sink into the unfrozen gravel. That works OK for light snows, but snow doesn't come off the ends of the bucket very well. For heavier snows, the bucket just pushes snow ahead of it until the traction break, which isn't very far. Then, I have to use the loader to stack the deeper snow somewhere.

Another problem with a bucket is that it can't be angled so snow does come off both ends rather than get pushed to one side. I guess that's OK if snow only will be cleared for one blade width, and old style 'cattle-guard blades are still seen around here. Most drives are wider than 8' and several passes would be needed. A second pass with a straight blade puts a snow windrow back in the centre of the drive. The same thing would happen if trying to push back birms along the sides from previous plowing. For plowing in regions that get significant snow, the main skill if figuring where to put plowed snow. It has to be pushed back early in the winter so there'll be enough space to plow more in the spring. I don't think that trying to push back birms with a straight blade would work very well.

Anyway, I don't understand 'push-box' designs, but if it would work similar to my loader then I'd wonder if it would get the job done and also keep my happy doing it.

Snow Plow on Tractor
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 31 Post by TomG2