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For my diesel storage, I have a blue 55 gallon drum with a hand-operated pump. Yesterday I needed exactly 30 pumps to completely fill my 7.5 gallon tank from "E" to "F" (very "F" - it nearly ran over when I drained the last bit out of the hose). So I don't feel a need for an electric pump.

When empty I drive the tank to the filling station in the pickup and when I get home I move the full tank with my FEL (using some wood blocks to protect the drum from dents). Even full it is possible for one or two people to roll it a few feet, say from the pickup bed into the FEL bucket.

We have an air bleed on the small bung made from some garden sprinkler parts and a padlock on the pump handle to keep kids from playing with it. I add stabilizer to each new tank and use the pump to mix - just pump back into the tank via the smaller bung to circulate. One 50 gallon-or-so fill lasts me about 10 months, winter and summer. I also have a couple 5 gallon yellow cans to supplement if the drum runs empty.

Oh - I tried some bio-diesel a couple years ago and it gelled in the fuel filter during the winter. I shoulda probably blended it with gas or regular diesel, but for now I don't want to deal with that hassle or risk having the tractor stalled out again. It worked OK during the warmer weather though.

Show us your diesel storing and filling set up
Parts and Repair
Replies 24 Post by LapinFarmer

OK, we've taken the 3-pt PHD off the tractor for the first time since it arrived. So now what do I do with it? Just leaving it on the ground doesn't seem right, and I don't look forward to trying to lift that sucker up to re-attach it. <br>
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I thought about just augering it in a foot and leaving it standing, but then I'm not sure I'd be able to get it "un-augered". My next thought was to suspend it from the barn rafters on a pulley, but I'm not so keen to have such a heavy object just waiting to fall on someone. Any other ideas? Maybe a rack or stand? Bonus points if it makes re-attachment easier. <br>
<br>
Thx. <br>
Neal

how to store the 3-pt Post Hole Digger
Operating and Attachments
Replies 6 Post by LapinFarmer

My wife has these regularly. She and others we know claim the prepping is worse than the proceedure. We also know a medical rep. who sells the supplies. His advice to make it easier: ask for the "low sodium" prep kit. Rather than drinking a gallon of vile stuff you take a pill and/or a smaller volume of liquid. Also you must start weaning off solid foods 2 days early rather than just 12 hours, but the process is more gentle and easier to "swallow".

The CT colonoscopy still requires a tube to "inflate" your colon with CO2 and a similar prep regime, it requires radiation exposure, and if they find anything you still need to get a regular colonscopy to remove polyps. The CT version can't see flat lesions - only 3D-polyps, and only those above a certain size, although the newset CTs can find the same percentage of polys of "clinical significance" as a visual scope (which does miss a few at corners for example). So CTs are not really an advantage.

The camera that you swallow does not get 100% coverage on the way through, and it can't take samples or remove polyps. It also has limited resolution, but the technology keeps getting better. At the moment it is not considered a replacment for a colonoscopy if you are hunting for colon cancer or pre-cancerous conditions.

Colonoscopy Tuesday how did your s go
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 32 Post by LapinFarmer

I'm guessing that Kubota is aiming at a different price point or market segment than Deere. My Kubota dealer says he does not stock B2910s but he sells plenty of B7800s. He actually discouraged me from ordering the B2910 (which would have meant more money for him) although he offered to order one if I really wanted it.

The B7800 is a great basic tractor. It does what it does, and does so without complaining. The new Deeres have some great features. But some people just want a working tractor and can't or won't pay thousands more for certain features. Obvously other customers will.

I assume that both Deere and Kubota know their markets. I will speculate that Kubota will sell more B7800s outside the US than Deere will sell Twenty series outside the US.

Compare a Ford Taurus, Lincoln LS and the Jaguar S-type - they are built on the same chassis, share the same engine block and probably 80% of the components. The Jag does 150 mph and has heated leather seats. The Taurus will get you to the grocery store just fine. Pays your money, takes your choice.

Kubota B7800 Price Check
Kubota Tractors
Replies 64 Post by LapinFarmer

Scientic American had a great article on hybrids and various alternative fuel economies (e.g. hydrogen) in the May issue. I highly recommend the article.

It got me into a long Email discussion with a buddy on diesel vs gasoline, to the point I had to pull out my old thermo text book to explain efficiency differences between diesels and Otto cycle (gas) engines.

The current crop of hybrid cars are gasoline because Honda and Toyota were trying to deal with California emissions requirements and get the ridiculous Zero Emission Vehicle requirements quashed (ZEV is dumb, Low EV is realistic). Since Americans don't like diesels and fuel availabilty is iffy in places they went with gas. If you really want make the most efficient car it would be a diesel-electric hybrid.

Those of you waiting for the hydrogen economy to save us will have a very long wait. Hydrogen is a secondary fuel, not a primary energy source, and as a fuel it is hard to handle and not very dense.

Hybrid cars
Autos SUV Trucks
Replies 49 Post by LapinFarmer

The manual for my new B7800 mentions that high sulfur diesel requires use of diffent engine oil and change intervals. to wit:

New CF-4 and CG-4 oils are for use with new low sulfur fuels in off-road vehicles engines.

When running an off-road diesel on high sulfur fuel, "it is advisable to employ CF,CD or CE lube oil with a high total base number."

And in bold type (Kubota's): "If ... CF-4 or CG-4 lube oil is used with high sulfer fuel, change the oil at shorter intervals".

new diesel fuel in 2006
Kubota Tractors
Replies 13 Post by LapinFarmer

If the soil was swallowing the big rocks at first then you were right to use them.

In your shoes I'd just bury them with the smaller rock and leave 'em be. If they really do want to pop up, then you can worry about removing them, but for now the ones that are not a menace are doing their job.

pasture mower for B7800
Operating and Attachments
Replies 14 Post by LapinFarmer

Stonegate,

If you plan to have any livestock of the four footed variety the National Electrical Code now requires that the entire slab be electrically grounded. Around here not all inspectors care, but some do and I know of one 24 stall barn floor that had to be ripped up and retrofitted.

You can just join all the rebar or wire mesh together and tie it into a grounding rod. Note that two footed critters (fowl) are exempt, but horses, cows, pigs and llamas etc. require it.

-Neal

Concrete floor in a Pole Barn
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 20 Post by LapinFarmer

Murf,

Thanks for the suggestion. How big can I make it? Can I double the depth/volume of the existing bucket?

Thanks
-Neal

larger bucket for B7800
Kubota Tractors
Replies 6 Post by LapinFarmer

Has anyone added extra work lights (head lights) to a B7800? I'd likely mount them to the canopy/ROP. Does the electrical system have enough juice to support more lights?<br>
<br>
Although we are getting 16 hours of daylight this week, in the winter it gets dark very early out here, so I expect to be working under the lights. <br>
<br>
-Neal<br>
(almost ready to buy a B7800)

B7800 - extra work lights
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by LapinFarmer

Do any of you Blue fans want to offer comments on the TC29 vs the TC30, assuming both have FEL and hydro? Also any comments on the new TC29s vs last years models and FELs?<br>
<br>
I'm shopping for a first tractor and I've now test driven a TC30 (manual) and a TC29D (hydro). The TC30 is available with hydro but none were on the lot to test out. I've also looked at Kubota B7800 and JD-4210, and found at least one local dealer that I like for each brand. <br>
<br>
My use is for a horse property with 4 acres of often hilly pasture and 2-3 more acres that could be cleared later. I also have to maintain 1/2 mile of gravel road and driveway, install fence posts etc. Additional acreage is wetlands and buffer zones.<br>
<br>
Last year I rented a Cub Cadet (25-30 hp model, don't remember which) to plow and seed the pastures with some help from a Cat D3B dozer, so I have some experience with tractors on my particular property. Some of the steep slopes are really steep and we have some odd corners, so I care about stability and maneuvering. Bad knees dictate hydro over a clutch, and being 5'5" makes cockpit layout important. <br>
<br>
My opinion so far is JD is the most expensive and has the largest turning radius, as well as cool features due to the e-Hydro that I may or may not really need. Ergonomically I like the TC30 seat but the TC-29 has an adjustable steering wheel. My dealer offered to swap the TC30 seat into a TC29 for me, and that might be the best solution but I have not actually tried it yet. The Kubota cockpit seemed to fit me the best and the frame is lower to the ground so I presume it is more stable on slopes. <br>
<br>
The B7800 and TC30 prices are very close, the TC29 was a bit more, the JD a bit more. <br>
<br>
My NH dealer also has some slightly used TC30s (50-100 hours) that are 20-30% less expensive than a new one, but alas none with hydro.<br>
<br>
Help!<br>
<br>
Neal<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>

Shopping for first tractor TC29 vs TC30
New Holland Tractors
Replies 7 Post by LapinFarmer

Oliver,

I don't know where my barn builder gets his Al channels, but they should be available at any big lumber yard, hardware store or metal supply house. They are just 2" wide, 8' long Al channels. There are two channels at each corner, facing 90 degrees away from each other, bolted into the 6x6 pole beams. Another way to think about it is there are two channels per side, facing towards each other. They butt against each other at each corner, so almost none of the pole beam is visible to the horses.

And yes, the 2x6's span 12 feet with no center support. Since they are T&G the wall as a whole can take quite a kick before any board will fail, and my builder says none of his ever have. The wall seperating two stalls is just one layer of the 2x6 T&G.

If this is not clear enough I can take some pictures of my stalls.

By the way, you don't have to use Aluminum. There is nothing that says you can't use a couple of 2x4's or 4x4s bolted to the barn frame with a space between them to form the channel. The Al is nice because it won't rust or rot, and it is smooth so the T&G is easy to slide out.

Hope this helps,
Neal

Putting stalls in barn
Parts and Repair
Replies 9 Post by LapinFarmer