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Actually I just reread your post properly and I missed the wife part the first time.

So now the obvious solution being recently married myself is to get a comfortable cheapo lawn tractor for her, and a new 4115 for yourself (with drink holder of course)! Problem solved.

:)

2210 vs 4115
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by DennoAce

I agree with Harvey for me personally, and I just bought a 4110gear.

There is no doubt that hydro is sweet and they are apparently reliable as hell. But then again that is when they work. It's just like auto/manual in cars. Autos are nice and they go forever, but when they die...they are problems and $$. A manual gearbox if driven properly will practically run "forever" and all you will need is a new clutch every few hundred thousand miles.

I recently started a new job at a golf course as mechanic and almost everything there is hydro. And I think almost every machine needed adjustment to keep it from creeping when the pedal was let go. Very annoying.

Also if you get up at 3am to move snow during a blizzard and the tractor just won't move...you may not be able to do anything about it without bringing it to the shop. But when I put mine in gear and let the clutch out...I know it will move. And when I need a new clutch (MAYBE 15-20 years from now) I can fix it in a weekend for a few hundred bucks.

Then again, jumping on and pushing a F-R pedal is a lot easier than stoping-clutching-shifting-declutch-go, plus you can feather it a lot easier into piles and such. So...you decide! lol

HST VS Standard Transmission
Kubota Tractors
Replies 33 Post by DennoAce

Well, I just love these debates. This one is currently of interest to me because right after this, I am going out to fill my new 4110 box with some steel that i got yesterday. These are old "hammers" from the mill I used to work at and they weigh about 80# each. I was planning on putting maybe 6-8 of them in the box and then topping it off with concrete to get my weight around 600-900# (have to experiment with it before I pour the concrete).

A large reason for this is becasue I definately want weight off that little front axle which is impossible with loaded tires.

However, I was also thinking of putting SOME ballast in the rear tires just because when doing other work like say tilling new soil, etc...it is nice to give the rear some weight to help pull and it is hard to have a tiller or ripper on the hitch and a weight box at the same time.

There is certainly a difference between weight in the tires and on the tractor, but let's not forget that there is still extra stress on the driveline/splines/etc to roll and stop this weight. For an example fill your rear tires with lead and see how long your brakes last.

I would like to know from those who know about the calcium/BallastStar/Washer Fluid/Antifreeze options. I know calcium is tried and true but can ruin rims and be a mess. This new stuff is supposed to be great but it costs $$. Im thinking the washer fluid will be one hell of a mess after a while. Are there any downfalls to the antifreeze/water mix idea? And what is the trick to getting it in there anyway without a pump?

BALLAST BOX FOR THE 4110
John Deere Tractors
Replies 30 Post by DennoAce

Well, having done plenty of metalwork myself I have to chime in on this one...sorry if I'm repeating advice:

- Get a Lincoln or Miller AC/DC (worth the money for DC option IMO) stick welder first, a nice little MIG later.
- If you have a welder or even if you don't, you have to also have in my opinion a torch setup. In fact, I bought a torch before my welder (waited for a deal on a used Lincoln). You can do anything with a torch, including brazing which in some cases is preferrable to welding. You can cut, heat, bend, etc. You should be able to walk away with an oxy/propane setup (use the same bottles as your grill gas..works just fine and is cheap) for well under $400. Airco and Victor make nice stuff. Buy a small oxygen bottle outright for $100 or so an you own it for life with no lease contracts, just need to exchange/refill.

Learning to weld
Parts and Repair
Replies 62 Post by DennoAce

hehe...All I need to do is crack a cold beer and go sit in the garage and look at my new 4110 and all is right with the world.....usually. :)

4110 HST
John Deere Tractors
Replies 56 Post by DennoAce

- Thanks again all for the nice comments.

- DRankin, Actually I am still dumbfounded why many people would NOT want the R1s! hehe I can see that they are definately a good "all around" tire if you mow grass along with other stuff but all of my work is definately more basic ground work. I plan to do a lot of bucket work, till, woods work (trail-making and firewood pullin'), and eventually build a backhoe, etc. I have used R4s on construction machinery (Case 580k, skid-steer, etc) and yes they are a great compromise tire for different sites but in the really rough stuff they just don't bite enough and in the muck or deep wet snow they quickly turn into slicks. Not to mention that as far as I know, they are more expensive to replace and while I like the flotation aspect (esp. in the front), I still would trade that for a little less stress on the front end parts due to width and needing more power steering help to turn them. I used the same logic to specify the smaller 49" bucket for the 410. Yes more size is nice but in the long long run, the smaller the bucket the less stress on the machine overall and the less temptation to overload the front. I am pretty nit-picky I know but I have worked on and with machinery all my life and I know these little things do add up over time and hours.. Of course these are just my opinions. Again if I was doing more "estate" type work I would probably go R4, and I will admit, as some others have said...the R4s do look pretty damn cool. :)

- grinder, They seem ok to deal with although my experience is rather limited so far as I have only been there to buy the machine. I will know more if troubles arise. That is usually when you see a dealer's true colors. I will keep you posted if I can.

Bought new 4110 gear
John Deere Tractors
Replies 15 Post by DennoAce

Guys like I said in my post I got the number directly off the JD website owners manuals....I hope it is a simple mistake and yes it technically doesn't matter if the axle in the 4110 is up to the task.....but would it not bother you a little buying a brand new 3/4 ton pickup for $25k if you knew that the same factory specs "claimed" that their cheaper $20k 1/2 ton truck axles were rated for MORE weight??? <br>
<br>
Hence my concern.....<br>
<br>
<br>
ps Thanks for the replies and the numbers quoted from the sales books make more sense to me, thanks. Too bad JD can't get the numbers right on the website if it is indeed a mistake....<br>

2210 vs 4110 axle capacities
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by DennoAce

Well all I surely do love these comments and experiences. I am STILL thinking the pros/cons over and will probably head down to the dealer one of these weekends soon.

I have looked at the 2210 and a local dealer just has it on special now for a sweet price ($11.5 w/FEL and other extras), but I think this one is a little small for me plus I cannot get over the fact that it has no turning brakes, which for me says this is not a utility tractor, but a large garden tractor with a bucket.

Can anyone attest to how the hyros run in -40 wind chills without the tranny heater? Anything hyraulic needs to be warmed up with use at these temps, but wondering if it will even want to move over .5 mph for 1/2 hour

4110 410 loader hydraulic question
John Deere Tractors
Replies 29 Post by DennoAce

Hey just wondering if anyone here has an inside scoop (dealer, other) as whether the zero percent financing for 36 months will be reborn after feb. or if it will be gone for a while. <br>
<br>
I seriously plan to buy but would much prefer to wait until spring for life reasons. That 0% is hard to pass on.<br>
<br>
thanks<br>

Deere 0% financing ends in Feb
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by DennoAce

thanks u guys...

nobody wants to help me
John Deere Tractors
Replies 15 Post by DennoAce