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Based on the age of the tractor, the ignition switch only "turns on the alternator" and maybe provides power to the starter solenoid, plus light control.
Tractor Data says the tractor was alternator equipped. If it has a generator, the switch only controls lights and starter solenoid, if it has one.
The tractor should have only a mechanical connection to the control of the injection pump. The throttle is probably the shut off for the engine, as well as controlling speed.
Oliver and John Deere both used a light switch for their ignition switch, even though diesels don't have a need for ignition switches. Shut off was by a pull rod or by the throttle lever
Oliver/JD light switch would be a good source for the switch as my memory indicates it used a similar switch.

Ignition switch wiring 250AS
Belarus
Replies 4 Post by Cyrus55

Always glad to hear someone has fixed the problem and is back at work.

Farm Pro 2420 Starter Issues
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 48 Post by Cyrus55

The front end is from a tractor that the previous owner didn't keep engine oil filled and ruined the engine. It is good, as far as I know. I'd take $300 for it, without the tires and wheels. and steering cylinder..

my 4wd is not working at all
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 8 Post by Cyrus55

Send me a picture of the hydraulic parts you're referring to. Maybe I can ID more info from that.
I have gotten parts for mine from CircleG tractor parts located in Nashville, TN. They have a website. They try to stock parts for the older 2 cylinder tractors. I had to get a head gasket.

Anyone have any info on this tractor
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 8 Post by Cyrus55

While you had it off, could you get the gear to slide out/in manually?

Mitsubishi 1600 ignition switch wiring
Mitsubishi
Replies 16 Post by Cyrus55

Jinma's are notorious for having a bad ground to the frame. Remove the bolt holding the battery ground cable to the frame and clean the location and the cable and reinstall to see if that it the problem.

jinma 284 has no power to anything
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 3 Post by Cyrus55

I think you have one pump, driven by the engine. I suspect there is a divider valve, probably located near the clutch housing. It should have several hoses attached. I would suspect the hose/that part of the component/tube leading back to the underseat area, is plugged in some way. There is probably a filter in that area, also. Knowing that you have PS, indicates the pump is operating.
I have similar problem with my John Deere.

Terraplane df 354 rear hydrolics ploblems
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 5 Post by Cyrus55

these tractors are Jinma tractors. Circle G tractors in Nashville has a stock of parts. check their website.
The Farm Pro is the nearly the same tractor as the Maverick 180 and Tractor King 200( was sold by Rural King)and the Jinma 180/200.
They are "old school" type tractors, but do have live hydraulics, and some have live PTO. I would rate them better than an 8N Ford, but parts are easier to come by for the Ford. I have 4 of the Mavericks. Recently the head gasket blew on one of them and I bought two from Circle G and my son replaced it. google maintenance videos on them.
Also, there is a Chinese Tractor Owners Association. Their website was: ctoa.net

farm pro support
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 7 Post by Cyrus55

Yes, it probably is the whole fuel injection pump assembly. The question Greg and I have is why are you replacing it. If you have a little bit of fuel coming from each of the injection lines as you rotate the engine, it indicates the pump is working.
You had a problem with fuel getting to the pump, if I remember. Given the fuel being bio fuel, which has a tendancy to remove "black stuff" from the fuel system and plug filters, that needs to be taken care of.
Next, given the fuel from the injection pump would indicate that you did have fuel from pump, so next to check would be injectors. that can be done by removing them, reinstalling on the injector lines, priming the pump and injectors, and rotating the engine with the starter to check for fuel coming from injectors. If the fuel coming from the injector is not in a fog or sprays off to one side the injector is not performing correctly and needs attention or replacing.

How do I get out the fuel pump on jinma 224
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 11 Post by Cyrus55

Based on other people's experience using Bio Diesel, it has cleansing properties that make it problematic for the first couple tanks. It will clean all the crude from the tank and put it in the filter and plug it up. Recommend new filters, and see if that doesn't do it.

Jinma 224 having fuel injection problems
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 3 Post by Cyrus55

[QUOTE=bogman;187409] I'm guessing they come on when you have the key in the start position. They quit glowin when I quit crankin.If you were to do a compression check on the cylinders, would you unscrew the glow plugs and screw the gauge in there?What would a good pressure be? [/QUOTE]

All my Jinma tractors have glow plugs in the intake manifold. I take it yours are in the head? Usually compression testing is done thru the injector hole. Most important is that all are nearly the same pressure. I'd guess the pressure would be in the 200 PSI range or more.......

Jinma 200 LE tractor dies will not start
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 60 Post by Cyrus55

[QUOTE=Ricka26;187355] Thanks I will be take it apart today or tomorrowI will get one on order Were is the best place to get one? [/QUOTE]

Don't know about the "best place" but Circle G Tractor in Mississippi probably has the parts in stock.

circlegtractorparts.com

How to repair Farm Pro 2003 2425 Clutch
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 10 Post by Cyrus55

The X1 refers to a high compression engine. They first occurred in 1940. To be more specific, high compression is a relative thing. No higher than 5.9:1. Before that, all engines were dual fuel, meaning they started on gasoline and switched to tractor fuel. Those engines had a lower compression ratio. In addition to the 5.9:1 there were others with higher compression engines, 5000 foot altitude and 8000 foot altitude. Don't know what their compression ratios were and don't remember the suffix for them.

1949 mod h
Antique Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Cyrus55

I am sure the M manifold will NOT fit.
The M carburetor may fit as the 300/350 carbs looked much like it. I can not confirm that without going to my parts book and finding the casting numbers and they would probably be different.
Red Power Magazine has an advertiser that focuses on power adding products for IH.
You might google IH power added products.

Farmall Pulling Tractor
Antique Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Cyrus55

The tractor was actually made by Steiger, as are all the other, later, 4WD, with the exceptions of the 2 +2 tractors. IH owned part of Steiger up until their buyout by Case when Case then took control of Steiger.
It is an International, not a Farmall, as Farmall refers to being row crop capable. It wasn't until later, when, AFTER IH dropped the Farmall name (around 1975) that Steiger brought out a row crop version of their tractor. Not sure IH offered a version of that, since the 2 +2 was out and it was row crop capable.
International Harvester 4366

1973 - 1976 66 Series
Four-wheel Drive (4WD) tractor
Larger: International Harvester 4568
Smaller: International Harvester 4166
Distributor: International Harvester
Manufacturer: Steiger
Factory: Fargo, North Dakota, USA
Total built: 3.166
Original price (USD): $37,360 (1976)

International Harvester 4366 Engine:
International Harvester 7.6L 6-cyl diesel
Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 118 inches [299 cm]
Weight: 21690 to 23000 pounds
Front tire: 23.1-30
Rear tire: 23.1-30
International Harvester 4366 Power:
Engine: 225 hp [167.8 kW]
Drawbar (tested): 163.17 hp [121.7 kW]
Chassis: 4x4 articulated 4WD
Steering: hydrostatic power
Brakes: integral hydraulic caliper disc
Cab: Cab standard

Farmall 4366
Antique Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Cyrus55

If your tractor is still on 6 volts, it should be positive ground. It shouldn't drain your battery too quickly, even if the generator is NOT working. <br>
You can take your regulator out of the "loop" by simply attaching a wire from the F (field) terminal of the generator to ground. That will make the generator produce maximum output. The cutout relay in the regulator closes when voltage is sensed and charges the battery.<br>
You will, undoubtedly need to polarize the generator if the battery has been hooked up with wrong ground. You do that by taking a piece of short insulated wire and quickly touching the G (generator) terminal of the regulator to the B (Battery) terminal of the regulator. You should notice a spark. That polarizes the generator. It generally works everytime.<br>
<br>
That being said, I purchased an H which had been used as a Negative ground 6 volt and I've polarized it a number of times and never got it to charge the right direction. It is now a Negative ground 6 volt system.......

Farmall 130
Antique Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Cyrus55

I suspect you have a twelve volt coil that says, on the side,(external resistor) and you need to add one. Unless the 12 volt coils specifically say "internal resistor," they need an exteral resistor. <br>
They used Delco resistors when IH switched to 12 volts. See if your local Autozone or such has a resistor for the firewall of a '63 Chevy 6 cylinder. It should work. <br>
I use either a:<br>
<br>
Wells AL795 (because it has the metal strap to attach to newer coil holders and includes small bolts to attach wires) {this matches what IH used when they went to 12 volt for the 460/560} or<br>
Wells CR101 (it is a thicker ceramic holder and poses a problem attaching)<br>
<br>
It goes between the wire from the ignition switch and the + terminal of the coil. Later coil holders had a tab to screw it to, but you may have to make a tab to mount it to the bolt that holds the coil to the distributor.

Farmall Super H hot coil after 6 volt to 12 volt conversion
Antique Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Cyrus55

I can understand the "running away" in low multipower. Multipower has an overrunning clutch in the gear train to allow the tractor to slow down gradually when downshifting without load. IH used the same principle in its Torque Amplifier.
I do not understand the run away in high range. Are you sure it was high range on the Multipower lever? The other range position does not matter.
Don't know about the front wheel assist, either.

Mf 168 4x4 Runing away in high multipower
Massey Ferguson Tractors
Replies 22 Post by Cyrus55

Bleed fuel lines at injector and repeat procedure until it starts. Make sure no more air bubbles appear at each injector line, before you tighten the line. I often try to bleed all cylinders at once, but with your situation, I'd do #1, then #2, and if you're lucky, it will start while you're bleeding #3. If this occurs regularly after you have done this, you have an air leak in the system somewhere.

Cub Cadet 7234 wont start after priming to injectors
Cub Cadet
Replies 25 Post by Cyrus55

Having had "fits" with my buddy's Cub and looking at everything, as you have, I FINALLY changed spark plugs and that was what it needed. Really had me fooled as it started great, idled great, but no power. <br>
Now that I think about it, I've run into this Cub problem twice and plugs was the answer both times!

Internatioal cub lowboy 154
Other Tractor Brands
Replies 10 Post by Cyrus55