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As a generalization, I always want the blade at least as wide as tractor tires, and some wider is better. I've had trouble moving snow pulling a blade. I've had much better luck pushing snow backwards. Tires stay out of snow and I can pile it better. Forward only works for me if there isn't much snow.

Bill

Rear Blade
Operating and Attachments
Replies 3 Post by Bill

Just priced L4610 and M4900. 4610 was hydro, 4900 wasn't. Otherwise they were equipped as nearly the same as possible. $700 price difference. Pay it?

Kubota L vs M
Kubota Tractors
Replies 1 Post by Bill

JD 425 SOLD

John Deere 425
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Bill

JD 425 w/54" deck 125 hrs. comes w/54" hydralic angle push blade, wheel weights, tire chains, extra set of tires (Turf), weight bar in back, extra mower blades, excellent condition for $7200 (330)627-1012

JD 425
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Bill

Hi. Just came across your post. I have a JD 425 w/54" deck 125hrs. comes w/54" hydralic angle push blade, wheel weights, tire chains, extra set of tires (Turf), weight bar in back, extra mower blades, excellent condition for $7200. We live in Ohio.

Used John Deere 425 and 445 Pricing
John Deere Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Bill

Tod, I don't have a Hinomoto, but I had similar problems with my New Holland. Water I doubt too. You should see it in your filter bowl if it was. It could be that you have a part in the governor which when heated by hard work like you are doing with the brush hog, gets tight and doesn't want to move freely. Secondly, the unit may have injectors that are sticking somewhat. Do you have any fuel knock? Are you using an cleaner or additive with lubrication? Finally, have you checked the output of the electric fuel pump which feeds the injector pump when hot? Could be that it is not working properly. If you have one, as I really don't know your machine, they generally start and stop to maintain a given pressure. Believe it or not, all of those things were in combination for my problem. Was a real pain to figure out what was wrong. Took almost two years, and a lot of frustration. One other thing may be something expanding and letting in air, but that sounds remote. Does it restart easily?? Good luck with your problem. Hope the post helps! Bill

hinomoto e-2004
Hinomoto
Replies 8 Post by Bill

Todd, A couple of reasons come to mind. First the coil may be getting weak. Had this happen on a 66 Chrysler. Misses like mad when pulling hard, ran ok at slow speeds. Secondly, if they are champion plugs in the old boy, change em. I have seen this do this in lawn mower engines as well as cars. Thirdly, check the ignition wires in the dark. Might be one leaking voltage enough to act that way too. I doubt it is a carb problem. When you richened the mix with the choak it is easier to fire a spark hot enough to ignite it. Let me know by e-mail if this helps you out. Bill

JD model M skips any ideas why
Parts and Repair
Replies 5 Post by Bill

Chris, Use a bottom plow first, then a rototiller. Pick all the goonies that you can firts, cuz they raise hell with the tiller. Don't forget to do a soil analysis first, and put all your basics including lime on first. You have to get those down into the soil cuz they don't migrate well. It may take you about a week of steady work after work to get it done, depending on the tiller size. You will be very pleased with the results, and the new grass will love you. If you just use one of these rock rakes or Rock Hounds, you'll only loosen about 2 inches. Grass loves at least 6 inches to be moved. Helps the roots grow easily, and moisture to be sucked up. Worked great for me. Hope this helps.

Rototiller
Operating and Attachments
Replies 5 Post by Bill

Larry, Did the engine exhibit any fuel knock? Did it get noisier with the increase in smoke, is what I mean. If you are not using a fuel conditioner which helps stabilize the fuel, I would start. This new, extremly expensive lately, stuff only lasts for a month or so, before it starts to degrade and start forming larger , unburanable molecules. That will surely screw things up in the old injector system. Maybe was a fuel injector problem from the beginning, just this can cause problems too. Damn oil companies, cheeper, faster, degrades more, but also costs more at the pump. PRI D works quite well for stabilizing fuel. It's on the net.

JD4100 Smoking Cessation Program
Parts and Repair
Replies 7 Post by Bill

Joe, It may work, but you would have to have a similar type valve to the one used for the unloader on the large compressor. Should not be expensive, it is small, but I don't know that for sure. This valve holds back pressure until the set air pressure is reached then opens full air pressure to the unloaders. If you didn't have this, the slow rise of air pressure against the spring would cause the belt to slip, squeel like a pig and burn. Might just work with that valve though! should be able to find one at a local Ingersol Rand Dealer or the like. Let us know! Good Luck!!!
Bill

PTO-driven air compressor
Operating and Attachments
Replies 11 Post by Bill

Hi All, I had read this thread when it was first out back last year. I had a similar problem with my New Holland but there were a bunch of little problems which caused a difficult problem to diagnose. The unit would occasionally loose power, as though starving for fuel and sometimes would stall ( showed up in the shop before delivery). Well we went with the fuel injection cleaner first. Seemed solved but this really did nothing. Then the electric fuel pump was changed. Changed the symptoms, but still no cure. They then changed a bushing in the governor that was excessively tight(wasn't allowing the governor proper movement, and the motor was partially disassembled for this operation). This again changed the symptoms, made an improvement, but increased the visible smoke, (even though none of the adjustments were touched) but still no cure. They then changed everything from the tank to the injector pump, including lines and again the electric fuel pump. Again an improvemnet, but not completely cured. At this point they gave me a strong injector cleaner with lubricant. The power loss ceased, but I still had excessive smoke, as far as I could see. Well I called the service manager again, and he checked the book and found what was called a "Smoke Screw". He came yesterday and made the adjustment. As far as I can tell, this smoke screw is the air fuel adjustment setting(he agreed). My tractor had been just pumping to much fuel into the injectors after the surgery on the governor. Problems are all solved now, including the excessive smoke, over two years after I first took delivery. (Time laps was more a New Holland problem than the dealer. I don't think New Holland believed us for a long time as the problem was intermittent and the dealer couldn't get it to do it. Made them come to the house, and I got it to do it for them, different story ever since) The service manual says that you should see a grayish smoke from the exhaust on acceleration, but not any other time except under heavy load. And at no time should it smoke black while not under load at any RPM. So, anyone that is smoking black, see your dealer, and ask him to cut back on the fuel flow. Less carbon build up, less oil dilution by the fuel, less soot build up in the oil, better fuel economy and you won't stink as much after your done doing what you need to do!! Bill

TC33 SMOKING AT TIME OF TEST DRIVE
New Holland Tractors
Replies 18 Post by Bill

Mike, This might be some dumb questions, but you did not mention these things. Is the 3.25 Gal a dry fill capacity, or a drain refill capacity. Never had a Kub so I don't know what specs are called out in their book. Secondly, did you change the filters, as if it were not done they hold some oil. Don't run it overfull at any rate. I would drain some to fall between the marks on your dip stick, as I believe foaming will occure, if overfilled. Secondly before you run it, I would call your dealer to ask why when you put in the required refill capacity(if that what 3.25gal is) why it shows over full. Good luck, hope this helps. Bill

Kubota B2100 50 hr maintenance
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Bill

Mike, Would be interesting to see if the toe changes at lock. The inside wheel should be tighter than the outside, and unless I am talking through my butt again, I would think the toe should change. That geometry thing ya know. If it doesn't that is why they are having to replace the whole axle, and not just that control rod. Jeesh, even my little sub compact has that kind of ajustment. They were really cheep. hope they fix it for ya soon. Bill

4100 toe-in
John Deere Tractors
Replies 15 Post by Bill

Mike, What is interesting about your rendition of cubes is that you have GM and Ford, but none of those Dodge/Chryco. numbers, Like 318, 360, 383, 400, 413, 440........ Hmmmmmm You musta bought that Dodge for the Cummings, not Dodge. Truth is I wish Cummings was an option on my F 250, but with fuel prices the way they are now, kinda wish it ran on gas too. Glad to see ya bought a Ford this time though. If it's a stick don't mash it in second gear, or you could clean the teeth. Don't know if they resolved that issue yet. To much torque. Sorry about the bustin. Bill

HST and cold weather
New Holland Tractors
Replies 33 Post by Bill

First thing to do, is to go to your local Agway or whatever farm stor is in your area, and get a soil analysis kit. The one from Agway is from Penn State Ag and is only about $7 including the testing. This will tell you exactly how much fertilizer and lime you need for the seed that you want to use. You can't just assume that the basic fertilizer needs are in the soil, and using those starter fertilizers are great after the basic balance is right, but certainly not good enough all alone. I have found that tilling the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches works the best after you have put all the lime, and basic fertilizer required down on the soil. These must be mixed into the soil in the top 6 inches to establish a good root system. These basics do not easily migrate through the soil. I have seen many lawns which were planted in the top two inches of soil, go brown and have to be replanted after last summer, with the drought that we had here. MLS, you qoute for $5,000-6,000 I'll bet only included roughing up the top 2 inches. Yes you'll get a beautiful lawn, but not one which is drought, and therefor disease resistant. Think about it, The roots need to go deep, and if your soil is hard, it ain't gonna be very easy for them to do so if it isn't tilled. So what I would say is to get a tiller rental, then some type of rake to sift out the rocks (I used a Rock Hound on a Skid Steer, I am not sure if they can be mounted in place of a bucket, but it needs independant hydrolics and controls, so the skid steer is maybe the easiest) My lawn was beautiful again after the rain we had in the fall, but those others I said about above, all died out. Do as you wish as it is your money, but it didn't cost me much more to do it this way than not. Good luck to all and pray to the rain gods. Bill

Planting a Lawn
Operating and Attachments
Replies 12 Post by Bill

Sorry guys, Didn't read the whole thread, just the last post that showed on today. I run a New Holland, but I think the comments still hold for Kubota. They ain't that much differant. Bill

Brands of oil used
Kubota Tractors
Replies 12 Post by Bill

Thanks for the input, Jim and Wayne. Sure does seem that the quality of fuel is not as it should be, especially considering the cost today. I wonder how much heat is lost in stored home heating fuel. Seems to me that if it works this way for deisel, it would allow more BTU's to be obtained for heating as well. Have to ask that question to the company. Thanks again!
Bill

Deisel Fuel Addative PRI-D
Parts and Repair
Replies 6 Post by Bill

Check out www.northerntool.com as I know they have a skid steer mounted hydrolic snowblower. ( don't know if it's on the site though, in the catalogue) I havn't seen the ATV ones yet, but I would imagine they are out there. When the ATV mfg's get the idea, they may put more powerful motors on em with PTO's and then they could be used for fun and work, without having a bunch of implements which have a separate motor for each. Awful expensive, and not economical. My neighbor has a 4X4 ATV, and prefers the plow on that to the blower on the garden tractor. Lots of wind here so maybe that is why. I prefer the blower myself though. Lots a snow here too, and if we get another storm I am sure he will have a problem. Not plowed back enough, ya know. Bill

Snow Blowers
Tractor Projects
Replies 3 Post by Bill

Pretone has this new extended drain antifreeze on the market, but I am still leary about leaving this in for more than the recomended time. There is an addative, which Ford New Holland, and Ford Motor Company sells for their deisel engines, which is basically an alkaline addative. I got a flier from Ford about the F250, that this stuff needs to be put in on the schedule depicted in the book( I was already following it) or cavitation can occure. I know a fella that lost a motor to this, so it is real. Apparently, even though the combustion chamber and the cooling system are two separate entities, the acids formed by the combution must somehow get into the coolant, causing cavitation, and erosion of the block. Now if this happens for the New hollands and the International motors in the 250, is it happening to the rest of the brands? It doesn't specifically say to add this to the coolant in the NH but the dealer says it's a good idea. Is this why we are changinge every one or two years? Bill

antifreeze
John Deere Tractors
Replies 11 Post by Bill

Fellas, I built a very similar set up last fall for my tractor (10KW). But the minimum size that Grainger and Mc Master Carr recomended for me was almost 5 inches for the smaller gear. This was due to the HP transfered by the belt and pully, and speed at which it would run. I utilized the more costly metric timing belts and pullies. They have a rounded tooth, that makes less noise and wears much longer. My tractor grunts when I have the stove burners on, the oven on, the spetic airator running, the fridge runing, the furnace running and the well pump starts(already loaded pretty heavy, in other words, as I wanted to see what would happen), but looses only about 50 RPM. I have access to a digital tack, not the frequency meter. She belches black smoke but doesn't miss a beat. Mike, it all depends on the torque curve, which is different from machine to machine, but you would think that the PTO speed would be the optimum speed for HP/torque mix(if the engine was tuned with the machine in mind). Torque plays as big a part of power in a deisel, as does HP. Maybe more so. But most motors which are worth their salt have a pretty flat torque/hp curve accross the rpm range, so it may not matter to much anyway. One big question I have is do those timing belts whine very loudly like I was told they would at those speeds? Mine is set up a little differently than the ones mentioned here. Bill

Generators for Compact Tractors
Shop Tools
Replies 12 Post by Bill