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I would fix the top like suggested in the other posts. I would take the time to reinforce it and add a hook or two. There are cutting edges available that you might want to add on to the bottom if that is getting tweaked a little. They would only cost about 40 dollars and would double the edge you have and you would not need to worry about bending it again if properly installed.

bucket repair or replace
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 6 Post by Art White

You need to go to a kubota dealer and buy the power beyond port off the hydraulic manifold. The part would be in there loader parts list I believe.

Kubota Tractor John Deere Loader
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 6 Post by Art White

Here are some comments about snow removal. I originally bought a 3ph blower because my Ford doesn't have mid-pto and I found that rear to front pto conversions are expensive. Front blowers also are more expensive than 3ph types.

I clear around 400' of drive plus parking space, which is quite a bit less than a 1/2 mile. You do have to turn around in the seat, and in light snows the blower will clear snow faster than I'm willing to drive in reverse. Never the less, driving in reverse doesn't bother me. Maybe I'd re-think the 3ph type if I had a 1/2-mile to do, but I doubt it. I alternate between loader and blower when clearing and I wouldn't want to go through winter without a loader or having to swap blower and loader frequently.

If the blower is going to be a 3ph type, then mid-pto may not be an important feature unless there might be a MMM in the future, and the JD may have other advantages. On the other hand, it sounds like the JD has a gear transmission that may not be an advantage.

My Ford has a 12 x 4 gear TX that provides a synchromesh reverse and three forward gears in each of four ranges. Even with four reverse speeds it's not uncommon to find that one reverse goes slower than I'd like and the next is a bit fast. I'm not sure I'd want to get by with fewer than four reverses. I'd say that if the JD has only two reverses I'd want to make sure that one of them is a good compromise speed.

As you probably know ground speed in tractors is selected mostly be gear rather than engine rpm, especially when using a pto implement. The issue of ground speed and reverse gears may be especially important to doing a 1/2-mile drive. Most times, you'd probably want to go as fast as the tractor still feels under control as long as the blower clears the snow. Synchromesh is an important feature, especially for loader work, but control of ground speed also is important to use a 3ph blower and a HST might have an advantage. Despite the tough choice, I’d put a lot of stock in trying each and seeing which tractor/dealer suits you the best.

JD 4100 v BX series
Operating and Attachments
Replies 38 Post by TomG

One point to note. Tractors such as the Ford 600 series and even the 8Ns had draft control fed through a spring behind the top link. It does work and well - only for plowing. As most of you know the 3 point hitch was designed by Harry Ferguson who teamed with Henry Ford to make a 9N in about 1939. All modern tractors use this basic design. In addition to the position control we have on the compacts - the old units - many of them had draft control - primarily to comensate for when the front tires go in a perpendicular rut. Questions?

3 PH Position control vs draft control
Operating and Attachments
Replies 28 Post by cdcole

Graded the driveway. Noticed two things about the Boomer. The 4wd does make a difference. The hydraulic lift leveling box is not adjustable from the seat.

One Boomer vs a JD318 Hydro and a Ford 641 - My story and conclusion
New Holland Tractors
Replies 12 Post by cdcole

Thanks for the input and it also gives me more to think about. I'm most certain that the snowblower is a must have from what I've learned in recent days. Sounds like you have a good set up yourself. I still have a couple of months before the white stuff starts falling. Maybe one of these new models will be available by then. I know for certain the 325 isn't making it up the drive with 3" of snow. With this fact known i'll research as long as practical but will have to make a decision soon. And your so right about having fun. I really like learning from people whom have that pioneer knowledge like yourself. Thanks again..........

Good general advice needed
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Bill Cherry

I am researching a ym2500 2wd tractor. It is JD green. I have been told it is a late 70's model tractor. What JD 850 and JD 950 parts will fit?

Yanmar 2500 vs JD 850
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Ralph Garrison

Another interesting find on the old dana rear ends.
Taken for DiRT.

Todd

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My 97 ate pinion bearings on a regular basis. It ended up being a bad
casting and the whole housing was replaced. Before the replacement, 6 sets
of bearings were installed. Not sure if this is relevant to your problem,
but the noise mine made was a very low hum. When the truck was put on the
rack and run in gear while listening underneath, it was quite evident where
the noise was coming from.
Hope it helps.

Jeff

Dodge Duramax
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 55 Post by Todd Wilson

I have the 419 fel and love it with the svt joy stick comfortly by your right thigh and the safty lock that can lock out roll or vert modes any one that has used a fork lift for many hours ie (job) will like it.plus I am looking into a set of forks for it soon.Plus the 419 is easy to take off the machine leaving the svt/joystick on the machine<br>
does anyone have a set of jd 790 filter cross ref for:<br>
oil filter<br>
power stearing<br>
and a equivlent for jd20d hy-guard hydraulic fluid.<br>
p.s. JD must have been reading this board,my 2002 790 has silicone molded base gaskets on the primary and secondary air filters,the housinglocks them into place(no more broken plastic wing nuts),HOWEVER you need fingers of an octopus to secure the latch neer the radiator screen it was not meant for someone with 13.5 ring fingers.

JD 790 or NH TC29
John Deere Tractors
Replies 13 Post by H. PETERSON

Everyone has made some good points here. For those of us that can remember, the big three were exclusively made in-house, with the exception of things like seats, carbs, in some cases rear ends and transmissions for trucks as well as many minor components. Knowing that your engine came from the factory your car was manufactured in was a huge deal. GM was sued for putting chevy manufactured motors into Buicks, I believe it was. After that, they put a disclaimer in their literature that stated "GM engines are manufactured at various GM plants" or something like that. Back then, if you purchased a Caddy, you expected a Cadillac made motor, it meant something then. If you bought a Road Runner, it best have the special 383 Road Runner engine with the 440 heads in it and not one from a Dodge station wagon. In todays "world" market, the name on the hood in many cases might be where 60% of the vehicle was made. Or, it might have been made in Japan and marketed here as a Ford. No matter what anyone says, it boils down to economics as MR Ethics stated. If all the manufacturers could make money by producing and marketing only parts they made, I can guarandamtee you they would, and not support their competetion by buying parts from them. Now that's my other two cents.

JD4210 vs Kuby 3010
John Deere Tractors
Replies 58 Post by cutter

I advertised it once in the local paper this past spring but did not sell it, not many folks looking for a plow when the tulips are poking through. It is a sturdy unit and the hydraulics work very well, large turn cylinders and such. It beats the heck out of pushing snow with a back blade and does allow you to pile the snow high if need be. On the down side, I am used to a heater when plowing and have always owned a truck with a plow except for a short period of time. I usually work long hours and don't want my face in the snow when I arrive home to clean the driveway. The worst feature of the loader blade is the lack of steering control when pushing snow. In the float position, once a load of snow is encountered, the front wheels will lift causing steering loss. If you don't mind that, it works fine. I found the best way to use it was to avoid the float position and manually adjust blade height as I moved forward. If you have a blacktop driveway, the whole process would be simple, mine is stone. There is a chain and clevis that come with it so you can unhook the top cylinders, chain it to the cross support on the loader arms and use it like a conventional plow. Hope this helps.

Curtis Snow Plow
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 3 Post by cutter

Bruce, there are three main problems with using a loader as a man-lift. 1) unless you have a self-levelling bucket loader there is a constant adjustment required to keep the platform level, unless you are VERY proficient with your machine this is VERY difficult to do, 2) all tractors have a center-pivoting front axle which makes them inheriently more unstable as the loader goes up and the balance shifts, and 3) it is just not a SAFE thing to do! Best of luck.

Pallet Forks Slip on
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 15 Post by Murf

Just back from the dealer where I got to inspect the first BX22 to arrrive in the area. The driving position is a little tight for me, but I knew that for trying a 2200. I was greatly surprised by the BH seating. Very comfortable. Lots of room for feet, knees, heads and other body parts. Also evident: doubled steel in many ares of the frame. Think this may work out. More later.

Question for Deere owners and dealers
John Deere Tractors
Replies 20 Post by DRankin

DICK,I JUST SOLD A 82 2640 W/240 LOADER,5500 HRS,8 SPEED
TRANS,TIRE CHAINS,GOOD RUBBER,TRACTOR WAS NICE $11,000.
IF IT HAS A SHUTTLE TRANS THEY SEEM TO BE WORTH MORE.THEY
ARE A TUFF TRACTOR AND ALL AMERICAN BILT BUT I WOULDNT TRADE
MY 4310 FOR 2 2640'S THE 4310 IS MUCH HANDIER AND THE
HYDRALICS ARE MUCH BETTER.GOOD LUCK

2640 WITH 145 LOADER
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by DH83

TomG,

Believe it or not, I use a book published by Iron Solutions for ag equipment, and one from N. American Equip. Dealers Assn for Compacts, Skid steers, and Lawn and Garden.
Deere quit printing books a few years ago because that info is available to us electronicly. The book is just as accurate,(so far) and faster (for me anyway) and contains info. on all major brands.

Model year info for JD 855
John Deere Tractors
Replies 11 Post by MRETHICS

You'll probably have to find a 2650 that's being parted-out. It would be good to check a parts manual to see if other models use the same 3ph parts so a search wouldn't be quite so narrow.

The chances of finding one locally aren't very good, but there are tractor salvage yards that can be found by a web search. Salvage yards seem to have mostly farm tractors, but I think some of the larger ones do list compacts.

three point hitch
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by TomG

I have not seen any dynamic unbalancing on the Yanmar 3 cylinder engines although as Tom says this is common on a lot of diesel engines. Is it 2 cylinder? As a grey market tractor I can not find any listing.

M1500D Vibration 1500 RPM
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Peters

Deerecrew,
To answer your original question about the mmm on the 755, they are a sinch to get on and off. Once the deck is under the tractor, it takes maybe 3-4 minutes to mount. Getting it off is just as quick or quicker. There are no bolts to tighten, just 6 quick pins and the pto to hook up and you're off an mowing. I am sure that you could dismount/mount a 3 point a little quicker, but believe me, it isn't a significant time loss once one has done it a time or two. It's a very nice, easy design. I doubt you would find it to be much of an inconvenience. Plus the deck can be locked in the full upright position for other chores, which is nice. I prefer a mid mount to a 3 point personally, and feel that the 3 points are somewhat cumbersome. I can see where they would both have their merits though.

mmm vs 3pt finish mower
John Deere Tractors
Replies 19 Post by guysnydr

MrEthics!

Welcome to the CTB. Glad to see you joined. Nice piece of land you've got!

Let me know if you have any problems with how I have things set up here on the CTB board.

Dennis

new 2210 sub compact
John Deere Tractors
Replies 48 Post by DennisCTB

Deep tillage is a beautifull thing, but there are some things about the subject that need to be addressed.

If compaction is the purpose of the deep tilling, then the following facts must be brought into the open.

Most tillers will only go about 6" to 7" deep which has already been stated.

There will be a layer about .5" thick directly below the depth of the tiller tines thatwill be compacted. This compacted layer is called "Plowpan" or "Hardpan. High Soil Moisture levels at the depth of the tillage will make this plowpan even harder. So good dry soil is crucial. If the soil at that depth is too wet, The layer will be even harder than if you had done nothing.

The best way to loosen things up a bit, is to use the sub-soiler/middlebuster, AFTER you have tilled, to break up the plowpan. Useing it before will make the tiller pull easier, but the end result will not be as good as useing if after the tiller.

I have a tiller ane use it often, in my area of N.W. Indiana, we have rocks. In order to limit the damage to the tiller, I have set my 3pt lower draft arms pins in the setting Deere has put there to allow them to float upward when the tines encounter rocks. the Tiller should be set so the tines rotate forward, this will help it jump the stones.

Some of the smaller stones will be pulled to the top of the ground for retrieval. The larger ones can be located by finding the dip in the ground the tiller leaves when it jumps over buried stones.

Be carefull and check for underground cables, field tile, gas lines, electric, and phone wires. Tillage that goes deeper tha 12" has been known to damage these, especially if they were put in privately. This happens every spring in my area at least once. It seems the old farmers would run a copper L.P. Line or phone line to an outbuilding and since they were going threw an area that they never tilled, they didn't bury it too deep if it was not a waterline. Then, someone purchases the property some 25 yrs later and guess what they find in the garden?

I know the original post is mre than 2 yrs old, but maybe someone will read this and learn a little something. Possibly even ad to it.

deep tilling
Operating and Attachments
Replies 17 Post by MRETHICS