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Most mowers are relatively simple boxes. The keys to look at are rigidity of the mower deck, quality of the transmission housing, method of blade/PTO disconnection - shear pin or clutch, stump jumping ring, blades and strength of 3 point assembly.
Most of the transmissions are comparable, some manufacture will provide lower HP rated transmissions, which you need to watch.
The mower deck needs to provide proper bracing for rigidity. The edge of the deck and gauge of metal are critical for long life, especially if you have a lot of sand that can cut the deck.
Higher priced machines have slip clutches rather than simple shear pins.
Lower priced machines have a small or no stump jumping ring.
Temper in the blades dictates how long a sharpening will last and how easy it is to sharpen. Poor steel will not hold a sharpening very long, but will be easy to sharpen. Very hard steel is difficult to sharpen. Poorly tempered steel could be brittle and crack. In general the sharper the blade the better the cut. The blades on a BushHog do not spin fast enough to get much lift.

Rotary mower cutting quality
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 6 Post by Peters

Tried attaching my 430 loader earlier today - could not engage any of the 4 hydraulic hoses. I cycled the control lever to make sure there was no pressure built up in system but still can't connect the hoses. I've attached/detached the loader many, many times in the past with no problems. I'm assuming the pressure is not being relieved - any ideas what may be going on? TIA

Cannot Attach 430 Hydraulic Hoses
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Steve in CT

Mark,
I also paid about $900 extra for the SS. I ended up driving about 2 hours away to a dealer- past 2 other NH dealers- because the others didn't stock Boomers with SS and obviously told me it was not worth it. BULL! I love it! I have taken my FEL off twice just to do it. It tokk about 5 minutes each way. I drive with the loader on in the woods. I carry my chainsaws and other stuff in the bucket and also use the bucket for levering out stumps of smaller trees. For what it's worth- I put a work glove over the loader control when I haul stuff in the bucket.-That way I will remember NOT to use the bucket for working and bury my chainsaw in the process. (Not that I ever did.;0) Don't worry about the sideways movement of the tractor when moving with the SS. I got used to it in about 1 hour. If you look underneath a SS equiped Boomer you will see why they design it this way. Good Luck! -Tom

quot supersteer quot
New Holland Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Tom Kopf

The last time I used my tractor and parked it there was nothing wrong. Several days later I started it up and when I went to put it in gear the clutch would not dis-engage. There was no noise or symtem that there was anything wrong the last time I used it and the clutch was working fine. What can I do to fix the problem and what could have happened?<br>Thabnks a millionDarrell Adams

Cluth will not dis-engage on kuboat 4wd l2050 tractor
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 2 Post by Darrell Adams

You can do this by removing the wire from the sender, and with the ignition on,hold this wire to a good ground on the machine. The guage shold rise to the full mark, indicating that the guage and wiring are ok. If it doesn't, try again - you are probably not getting a good ground. The reason I say this is because guages are very reliable. The problem is almost always with the sender - usually the float. They can become saturated with fuel over time and sink, giving a low or no reading. You should be able to get a float and new gasket at your local auto parts store. With this and Harvey's and Tom's suggestions, I think we have it. If not, come on back.

Fuel Guage Problem
Parts and Repair
Replies 17 Post by Stan in Calif

See feed and care under tractor use this month. If you can find a synthetic oil formulated for diesel applications then go ahead. Personally I have never seen one. Do not use a oil formulated for automotive use in a diesel. There are antiburn additives and detergents in diesel oil added to protect the engine.
A diesel produces a lot more soot than a gas engine. These find their way into the oil and must remain suspended in the oil or will deposit in oil journals etc.
High compression etc. creates more oil use with standard oil. You will find the diesel will rapidly burn regular or synthetic automotive oil. Unfortunately I am type that experiments and need to be convinced and ran Castrol Syntec in my JD 750 for about 10 hrs when I first got it. Thats how long it took to burn a quart. I thought I might have bought a lemon. Switched to Shell diesel oil and everthing was Ok, not a quart between changes.
You can use diesel oil in an old car to reduce oil consumption. You just need to watch it if you have a very dirt engine as some of the deposits can dislodge. You need to do a quick change.
This is similar to the trick of adding a quart of transmission to clean an old engine.
Peters

Synthetic Oils and Small Deisel Engines
Parts and Repair
Replies 12 Post by Peters

Sorry Mickey, My post listed your name instead of mine, Steve B. Anyone know why or what did I do wrong?

Loader control
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 22 Post by Mickey Grider

I hope these comments help somebody who is just starting to play with a scraper. I may have left some false impressions awhile back. I've commented that the blade angle (adjusted by the top-link) on a box scraper is the main thing that determines the cutting/spreading action of a scraper. I've also commented that holding position control, rather than floating the 3ph, can be used to keep the scraper from sinking in soft surfaces but the problem then is that the scraper goes up and down when the front wheels go over hills or dips. My example was that the scraper digs a divot when the front wheels go over a hill. That does happen, but not because the scraper is held down by the hitch (like a loader). That was a misconception that I got rid of myself not that long ago. Position control can prevent a 3ph from floating down, but most 3ph’s always can float up. Never the less, divots are dug. This is what I think happens. When a box first starts up a hill, the ground angle changes with respect to the blade. Until the entire box gets on the new slope, it's equivalent to shortening the top-link, which increases cutting action. In addition, if the 3ph has no float, some of the scraper’s weight is on the 3ph. If the front wheels go over a hill, the 3ph floats upward, which puts all the weight on the box. The additional weight increases the cutting action. However, there is one thing for certain. If a load is being dragged, and little float is used. When the front wheels go into a dip, the box comes up and dumps the load. It's a pain to have to back up and pick up a dumped load, and I always seem to gouge my nice smooth grade doing it. I usually use a lot of float so that doesn't happen. I also usually slightly lengthen the hydraulic top-link and the bottom of hills and then shorten it again after the box starts up the hill so I don't make the hill any longer. I avoid holding position control except during the initial spreading of loose gravel. If a surface is so soft that the box sinks even with an extended top-link, I compact the surface with the loader bucket until it can support the scraper.

Box Scraper Use Position Control
Operating and Attachments
Replies 4 Post by TomG

Harvey: I've wondered about the outside tanks from time to time but never pondered it much. It's a funny trick of mind. On one hand I know that #2 diesel and furnace oil are the same, and I know that #2 diesel can gel. I never really applied the gelling problem to outside furnace oil tanks (ours is inside). Your comment probably clears up a minor mystery of why the furnace oil delivery trucks don't go door-to-door. We get a delivery and sort of expect to see the truck pull into our neighbours but it zooms off up the highway. The next day or two, our neighbour gets a delivery. 'Cause the distances here are pretty long, I've wondered: 'Why all the driving around?' Guess the answer is the routes are more complicated than they seem. I wasn't really grumbling about price, but rather observing that the prices of furnace and stove are similar here, but stove oil has fewer BTU's per gallon. Heating costs probably would be higher if furnace and stove oil are blended so the outside oil doesn't gel. Oh yes, government contracts seldom make sense.

Care and Feeding
Tractor Projects
Replies 22 Post by TomG

I think the discussion is about mechanical links. I believe they're replacements for the draft arms. They release and can be pulled out, and then they lock when the tractor is backed up. I've always imagined that the links on large farm tractors are hydraulic. Seems like almost every motion on some farm tractors can be hydraulic--the cigarette lighter maybe. Guess there's only so much that can be done with an 8gpm compact pump. The trick of using the 3ph to get the right distance for making the top-link pin was one of my later 3ph discoveries. I used to lever things up and block them (takes awhile to learn to use the tractor instead of muscle I guess). Reading this board sure does speed up the learning curve. To shorten up the top-link distance, I sometimes lift the 3ph to take the weight off the blocks at the front on an implement, kick out the blocks and then lower it. I have to do this to raise the carriage of my forklift to vertical so the top-link pin can be made. I can't lift the carriage myself and raise it with a come-along and clevis pins in the top-link mounds. Also use a safety chain around the carriage and ROPS. I have to drop the front of the carriage to get an angle, or the come-along won't lift it either. People with post-hole augers have similar problems.

Telescoping draft links
John Deere Tractors
Replies 17 Post by TomG

Check to see if the dealer set the 513 up with the lift pins in the top holes, as they should be in the bottom. Mine came setup in the wrong holes for the size tractor I have, and I also could not get enough lift off the ground. The rear wheel lift height is controlled by the length of the top arm.

Adjusting slip clutch on 4200
Operating and Attachments
Replies 12 Post by kay

Ok got the tractor. She runs like a top, very quiet. This is gonna definitely get a 'working restore' (I have 3 jobs booked for tomorrow on her)

Oil question, they say use straight 90 weight mineral oil. Ok, where the heck do you get this? anything 90/90W I find is GL5 EP oil. *not the same*.

Is todays 'tractor trans/hyd oil' the same stuff? I have the ORIGINAL operators manual (dated 12/63) so it is very clueless. Also, what oil filter do I use, it has 2 modern fuel filters on it.

To John Miller - if you want to part with the service manuals, parts and electrical - name a price. Im interested.

Lastly, I dont have the independant PTO - apparently that is only avail on the 165 and up. I do have live PTO, but its geared off the tranny input shaft thru the pto clutch like a 'normal' tractor (the the ground speed PTO and draft control is interesting but useless for me.

btw - CT has a plethora of parts for this, but anyone have a line on salvage parts? I need the front end spindles and hubs. The axle arms are original, but the spindles and hubs are welded on replacements about 20+ yrs old. Last question (for today) there appears to be an access place on the bottom of the tranny input, held on by 4 big bolts. She always leaks tranny fluid. It appears any gasket that SHOULD be in there, is not....I assume dropping this plate would be a valdez-like mess. Am I right?

any body have info on
Massey Ferguson Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Ed

Many of the better oils are not straight weight for the rear ends any more. The last I bought when I rebuilt the rear end of my 97 Ford Pickup (another story)was 80-90. Sorry for the confusion.

Woods XT160 bush hog questions
Operating and Attachments
Replies 5 Post by Peters

Thanks John, I will stock up on wix 51311 oil filters. I guess no one had
any luck on crossing the hydraulic oil filter KB part no T0070-37710 to a
Wix or Fram filter?
Regards Mike

L3010 oil filters
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by mike

Terry, Thanks for the info. I Looked at the web site, then it dawned on me to look in my McMaster-Carr catolog and I found one ranging 45-0-45 degrees for $15.88. Any idea when you would get in trouble on the BX2200?

BX2200 Stability
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Tractor Tim

Where are the grease fittings on the BX series?<br>The owners manual is terrible, says you only grease the battery, no metion of any fittings. I found a grease fitting on the foot pedal.<br>It would seem there should atleast be one on the front axle pivot.Is there a more complete aftermarket/dealer shop manual for the BX and where can I get it?

BX Grease Locations
Kubota Tractors
Replies 1 Post by Glenn Diego

Thanks Murf. I'll e-mail you. I've got some interest, and mine is a 1710. A friend down the highway recently got a 1510 (also cabless) and there may be some interest there as well.

TomG contact me
Tractor Projects
Replies 2 Post by TomG

Dealers are paid for the warranty work by the manufacturer, so as far as performing the work, they don't care if the tractor was purchased somewhere else. This is just additional money in their pocket from their service department. However, it is likely that some dealers will give their own customers better service than someone who purchased elsewhere and came to them for service.

Will dealers honor warantees
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by BillBass

Thanks for your message. My situation was related to the complex throttle and governor linkage that is used with the Kohler engine. It is very difficult to adjust if you want that extra few rpm's. I can can get 3500 rpm with no trouble but an extra 200 to 300 rpm's really makes a difference when trenching. I have been using 10-30W oil since the machine was new.

Steiner and Ventrac Articulated 4WD Tractors
Articulated Tractors
Replies 44 Post by Richard Harburn

I'm away from home right now so I'm going to be a bit vague on the details I'm afraid. Mine is the older, utilitarian model. No pneumatic tires on my old soldier. It has the Briggs engine but I'm not sure of the hp. 10.5 hp sounds a bit much, I want to say it is in the 8hp range but it was the largest available at the time of purchase. Whatever it is it hasn't missed a beat. Starts first time and runs as long as it has gas. I don't use it as much on rough pastures now that I have the B2400. It's reserved for steep, steep slopes and clearing around the lake at the farm where there are still stumps and deadwood that would hurt the little rotary mower on my little tractor and it's no place to take one of the bigger farm machines. With the brush blade it will run up and over 1" - 1-1/2" saplings and then you better watch out because pieces of wood are going to be flying out of there as it mulches them up. Weeds and vines are no contest. Mine isn't the prettiest machine you ever saw, it's been in the brush wars and collected a few battle scars, but what it was designed and built to do, it does very well and with the lawn mower deck it does double duty. I wouldn't trade it, except for a newer model, but as long as this one keeps running I can't see that happening in the near future.

DR Brush Mower
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 15 Post by Frank R Taylor