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Topic

The PTO is operated by an electric clutch by flipping the toggle switch. You could have a bad connection, bad switch or a clutch that is out of adjustment. Additionally, on some Cubs, a switch shuts off the mower deck when the hydro is in reverse.<br>
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My first guess would be the electric clutch is out of specification. The clutch plates have a certain "Gap" range that they operate in. If the "Gap" is too large, it won't engage. Too narrow, it won't shut-off. When it is at the extreme end of the working range, it won't engage or disengage after it has run awhile and has gotten warm and has grown from thermal expansion.<br>
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A couple of trouble shooting tips (you may want to try some of these in a different order than written below):<br>
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1. If you flip the toggle switch "ON" with the motor running at low speed, you should be able to hear a clicking noise if the clutch is attempting to engage. If you hear the clicking noise, the clutch is out of adjustment.<br>
2. If you flip the toggle switch "ON" before starting the engine, it shouldn't start because of a safety interlock. If the tractor starts, it is one sign of many that the switch isn't functioning.<br>
3. The toggle switch is an electric connection and not a cable. Check to make sure you have good electrical contact at the switch and at the clutch.<br>
4. If the battery is soooo dead, you may not have enough voltage to trip the electric clutch. Suggest trying to operate the switch with the jumper battery still connected.

Cub Cadet 1720 PTO cable switch failure
Garden Tractors
Replies 9 Post by yooperpete

Here in Michigan, you'll get run over driving 55 MPH on a road with a posted 55 MPH speed limit. I drive these at 62 MPH (I normally drive 7 MPH over)and generally get a line up of cars behind me. On the I-75 expressway it is posted at 70 MPH. Most drive between 80 & 85. I make sales calls with one of my business associates and he normally drives the expressway between 85 & 90. Last week we got up to 105 and 110 for passing several times.<br>
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Back in the old days with the 55 MPH speed limits, I drove out West several times. That takes a long, long time.<br>
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I don't follow Murf's thinking about not getting the fuel savings when talking about MPG. I follow the GPH in air travel but also realize wind speed and direction is a big factor.<br>
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With regard to MPG, you will still achieve the fuel economy even if it takes you longer to get to a destination. Most vehicles with an automatic transmission go through a "Lock-up" stage where the torque converter is more positive. At that speed and above, you achieve better fuel economy until wind velocity drag reduces it. Lock-up on most is about 62 MPH if I remember correctly.

Car Fuel Economy and the 55 MPH speed limit
Autos SUV Trucks
Replies 34 Post by yooperpete

Maybe the needle valve in the carb is sticking shut or the float is sticking, blocking fuel flow.

3204 stalling issues
Cub Cadet
Replies 3 Post by yooperpete

My local Kubota dealer sells a magnetic base mirror that comes in different arm length models and ball socket for adjustment. I'll have to get the manufacturers name. Always have wanted a mirror for mine!

Cooper and Grandpa Don out for a spin
Photos
Replies 7 Post by yooperpete

The electric clutch has a certain gap range that it operates in. If the gap is too tight, the clutch will not disengage. If the gap is too much, it will disengage. The clutch is a spring loaded device in the pulley and has 3 bolts that can be tightened. I believe there is a service manual describing the procedure.

2186 deck Disengaging
Garden Tractors
Replies 4 Post by yooperpete

My first guess is that is in the fuel delivery system. I would totally drain and attempt to clean the fuel tank to insure that you don't have a large chunk(s) of sediment in the tank that floats toward the outlet and plugs flow to the filter. I would also blow out the fuel lines from the engine back toward the disconnected line going to the tank.

My second guess is; are you sure it is a problem with engine power and not the hydro not wanting to move forward, falsely making you think it is lack of power? My 7275 once had a problem while I was plowing and the hydro would studder at times and seemed to have no power. This was intermittent. My dealer replaced the hydro filter which had been partially clogged and caused it to collapse at times from suction. They also replaced the hydro oil. The problem went away!

I'm about a half hour away from your location and use Weiss Farm Equipment in Frankenmuth. If you can't figure out the problem, I'm sure they would be able to solve the mistery. Janson equipment in Reese is also good!

power loss at cruising speed
Cub Cadet
Replies 4 Post by yooperpete

Last week someone else had a problem with broken off bolts and bad tapped holes for a different tractor brand. The discussion was about using heli-coil or E-Z lok thread inserts. That may be a better route than welding.<br>
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I never did find my camera, think someone at work had a better use for it than me! Just got a new cell phone with camera. I'll try to figure out how to use it and post a picture of my bracket.

CUB CADET BRACKET WM-52581
Cub Cadet
Replies 9 Post by yooperpete

Yes, E-Z loks are easier to use. You can use a standard tap and wide screwdriver to insert. Heli-coils require a special tap and insertion tool. Your local bolt store should have these. They come in inch/inch, metric/metric and metric/inch combinations with normal wall and thin wall construction. Thin wall come in handy if you are close to edges or other holes. Reid Supply in Muskegon has them in their tooling catalog. (ReidSupply.com) or 800.253.0421. They sell both kinds. Don't have a minimum order but get you with a shipping and handling fee. If you give them your UPS account number to direct invoice the shipping, they skip the handling charge.

Get the busted off bolts out with an E-Z out and make sure that you drill the holes perpendicular to the frame and make nice round tap drill holes.

broken bolts
New Holland Tractors
Replies 5 Post by yooperpete

My Cadet blows grey smoke when under a heavy load but seems normal under general use. The oil on the dipstick isn't a dark color like I would normally think from bad rings. It doesn't seem to be throwing oil and doesn't consume much.

Do you think I have a bad ring as well?

Tractor smoking and throwing oil
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 5 Post by yooperpete

John Deere offers an extra wide turf tire on some model tractors made specifically for lawn applications (golf courses). Depending upon the tractor and tire size you may be able to have a turf tire that fits in the plowed furrow. I have a single bottom plow and my turf tire fits in the groove.

In my case, driving over the lawn is common as is snow removal. In those instances the turf tire seems to be best. Once a year, I plow the garden which is only a half acre or so.

My tractor has an extra wide turf front tire which also works well for loader work. Most turf fronts don't handle FEL work all that good. The tire brand on mine is Galaxie. They are the ones that also offer the balloon tires for JD.

If you do lots of field work and are not concerned with tracking up the lawn, an Ag tire is best, being self cleaning to a point. The industrial R4 is a compromise and is particularly good in rockie soils, busted up concrete or heavy brush and thorns and won't puncture.

If it is all that muddy, you shouldn't be in the field.

tires
Kubota Tractors
Replies 10 Post by yooperpete

Welcome to TP:

First off, I'd recommend that you unfold them ROPS. Like Murf said, Safety is #1. Second, when transporting a tractor, I like to strap from the outside of the trailer toward the center of the tractor both front and back further back and forward of the tractor. That way, it is doing a wedge in all positions; (front,back,righ,left).
Doing from outside to outside as you have done would allow your tractor to bounce sideways while loaded (maybe 3 to 6"). Likewise, if somebody T-bones you, the tractor could shift. My preferred method makes a tighter hold-down.

When using your brush hog, your engine rpm should be when it says 540 PTO rpm on the tach.

Get yourself a paint pen (I usually use white). Put your loader (FEL) down and tilt the bucket so it is flush or ever so lightly digging. On the right side is a shaft protuding through a piece of tubing. With the paint pen put a circle around the top of the tube. Let it dry. Now every time you use your loader and want to dig into a pile of something or just skim the dirt, you automatically know where flush or just a slight digging position is!

High range is for traveling from point A to B, light duty mowing, and light pushing of snow. Mid-range is for heavier duty brush hogging, loader use when digging into a pile of dirt/stone. Low range is for pulling stumps, heavy duty ripping of soil, etc.

Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
New Holland Tractors
Replies 21 Post by yooperpete

All the BX models that I'm familiar with have a category I hitch. They usually have a narrower spread of the lift arms. My suggestion would be to visit tractory supply. They and lots others carry the King Kutter brand. King Kutter has models build primarily for these smaller tractors. They even paint them orange. Their normal color scheme is yellow. They are on the lower end of the spectrum for price, etc. They usually don't have a nice paint job, some rust already showing from the dealer. The larger units that I've used have taken a beating. I agree you may want to get a narrow unit, but I always like to cover my tracks.

Suggestions for a rototiller Kubota BX2360
Kubota Tractors
Replies 11 Post by yooperpete

Thanks for the help!

How to type chemical and math symbols
Everything and Anything
Replies 6 Post by yooperpete

If you look at my photos 2 & 3 you will see a TSC vinyl heat houser. It is 3 sided with a windshield on all 3 sides. It is a universal mount. It is a little delicate but mine has been in use for about 10 years. Think it was under $200.00 at the time.

My farm driveway is in open country and the wind blows really hard. Without it, it was miserable clearing the driveway. Wind can blow in from behind but is tolerable. On warm days, it gets pretty warm inside where I dress down a little.

trying to find an inclimate weather cab
Massey Ferguson Tractors
Replies 10 Post by yooperpete

Check out "zeromotorcycles.com" for moto-cross and street machines. If I had some extra cash, I'd get one!

8000 00 Electric Motorcycle
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 6 Post by yooperpete

Seems that in today's high-tech world, it would be cheaper and less complicated to mount a couple of rear facing cameras with monitors up front.

Hydraulic Power Equivalent
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by yooperpete

I'm not familiar with that model but it has an "AGS"-automatic gear system which is some sort of gear driven unit that has separate clutches for forward and reverse that operates with pedals similar to what hydros do.

I just typed "Cub Cadet 2160" in google and found lots of info. Apparently this model has had some clutch (drivetrain) issues particularly if you ride-the-clutch. There is also a craigslist unit in Delaware that was offered on 9/9/09 for only $350.00. Parts should be readily available through your local dealer.

Transmission trouble
Cub Cadet
Replies 9 Post by yooperpete

Sounds like the hydraulic filter is clogged. I had a similar situation and found that the filter collapsed from suction. I always put in the factory brand.

hydro problems
Cub Cadet
Replies 3 Post by yooperpete

Many Cub Cadet models in the era of the Mitsubishi design have had a problem with starting. I have a model 7275 (5 indicates hydro) where the next newer model was 7305 (also with hydro). I believe your 7304 is a "gear driven" 30 HP model. They all had the same issue.

The basic problem is the wiring for the starter. The wiring was set up that battery voltage goes from the ignition and through the various safety interlocks before going to the starter itself. Through all that wiring and switches a drop in voltage occurs. So, the 12 Volts drops to about 9 -10 volts which often isn't enough to engage the starter.

As a kid, we had the same issue with our John Deere 55 combine and never knew how to fix it. We almost always had to tow it to start.

Another poster on this forum, Larry Lutz shared a wiring diagram some years ago which had a solenoid relay in the system. Making this change solves the problem. I've done it to mine and passed this info on to dozens of others.

Basically, the fix allows the current to go from the ignition through the safety switches but then goes to this solenoid relay. It only takes low voltage to trip this relay, but then gets power directly from the battery to the starter for a good 12 Volt current.

I had my Cadet dealer do the fix, but if you are at-all electrically inclined, I'm sure you can do this as well. There are a number of postings about this issue if you check the archives. Someone also posted an alternative solenoid relay which is less costly than the Cadet one listed.

Send an e-mail to badriver@badriverinc.com so I have you address, I'd be more than happy to send you this info in a .pdf format. Through this forum, I don't have a method to directly send you an attachment.

Cub no crank start problems
Cub Cadet
Replies 14 Post by yooperpete

Dennis:

To us gun nuts that is an AK-47 copy.

Where I come from, you dig the hole first and then use a real gun when shooting at them at ground level from raunchy bait or pellet gun on roof tops. Don't tell the neighbors!

Turkey Vulture Nuisance
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 15 Post by yooperpete