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 | jonathanengr
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 100 Bostic, North Carolina 
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2004-04-08 82471
I've decided on a tractor, and now it's implement time! I have lots of small (2" diameter) pine stumps in my front yard that were cut flush with the ground. What is the best tool to remove these? The FEL? A scrape blade? A box scrape? Speaking of the box blade, what are the uses for it versus a regular scrape blade? I know that a backhoe is best for digging and such, but I'm not buying a backhoe--yet!
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| jonathanengr
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 100 Bostic, North Carolina
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2004-04-08 82473
One last question: How much is a decent auger? I need one to dig appx 30 post holes. Would I better off to rent one? ....
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 | kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon 
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2004-04-08 82488
A backhoe is the best thing to use. I used to use my HD loader bucket to do it, and it can be done, but it makes a bigger mess (wider bucket means bigger bite) and you have to be careful not to rack the loader frame. ....
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| jonathanengr
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 100 Bostic, North Carolina
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2004-04-08 82489
Rack the loader frame? And the stumps are everywhere... there are literally several hundred of them, thus my thought of just using the bucket since they're so tightly packed. Plus, at this point, I'm not interested in dropping $6000 for a backhoe attachment. Would the box scrape be good to use with the "teeth"? ....
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 | beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan 
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2004-04-08 82494
I think by rack, kws was talking about biting on the stump off center of the loader, putting an eccentric, or unbalanced load on the frame. This wouldn't be good. I have removed stumps with my loader, but ususally by pusshing at the top of what is left of the tree, using that as leverage to tear out the stump. Always do it with the loader extended a little, so there is a little hydraulic extension to cusion the push. I don't think you would have much luck pulling a box blade through the stumps. Someone else might be able to tell you more. I've done a lot with my box blade, but couldn't imagine tearing through stumps with it.
I paid $375 for my Post Hole Digger, and another $95 for the 9" auger. ....
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 | blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 282 Central Maine
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2004-04-08 82496
Jonathan,
Even small stumps can be pretty tenacious.
Option #1 is to give then some time to rot and forget them. This process is accelerated by moisture and nitrogen (fertilizer).
Option #2 is really remove them with now the FEL, digging below the main root mass. This may mean 'working' the whole area if the stumps are closely spaced and the roots are intertwined. Once the stumps and attatched roots are freed from the soil, you can hand pick them or use a 3PH rake to gather them up.
If you want a garden in the area, option #2 would be best. If you just want a grassy area, fertilizer, lime and grass seed would encourage decomposition and save a lot of work.
If you think there might be a lot of undesireable growth, Roundup or another herbicide might be applied first, then the seed after the recommended waiting period.
Hope this helps,
bliz ....
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| kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-04-08 82499
Yes, by rack I meant bending the loader frame. Normally the frame is rectangular, the arms being parallel and at 90 degree angles to the bucket mounts and pivots. When you push the bucket into something off center the stress is distributed unequally, which can cause the frame to bend out of square. When pushing into something hard you want to push with the center of the bucket.
I've done stumps with the FEL by first digging up the roots from the front, then digging on either side, then pushing the bucket under the stump and using the bucket curl to pop the stump up or placing the bucket behind the stump and using bucket curl to pull the stump toward the tractor. This was with douglas fir stumps which are shallow and not particularly tough. It can take a long time to dig out a single stump this way, I think it took me over an hour to do a single 8" stump.
I doubt that your box would be able to pull the stumps OR live long trying. Even if the blade could handle it your tractor likely wouldn't have enough pulling power or traction to do the job. ....
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| jonathanengr
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 100 Bostic, North Carolina
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2004-04-08 82503
Thanks for all the info thus-far. Had I have known I'd be buying a tractor, I would have waited a couple of years to saw those trees! Hopefully by now perhaps the roots have rotted enough to make an easy job of removing the stumps.
One thing I didn't see... what exactly is the difference between a box scrape and a regular scrape blade? I know the difference in looks, but what is each one "made" to do? Why is the box scrape shaped the way it is? Are the "claws" removable? Etc., etc. ....
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 | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2004-04-08 82506
Jonathan, we often have lots of stumps to clear from scrub when building out a new golf course.
We made up a two-toothed claw for doing it, it's sort of like a big middle buster with a siamese twin. It goes on the BH in place of the bucket. There is a gap of 4" between the two teeth and it is used in conjunction with a thumb attachment also. It basically works like a big steel hand to pull them from the ground.
I'm sure you could accomplish much the same thing with two fingers cut out of thick steel plate and hooked to the 3pth. A hydraulic toplink would make it work even better. Drive into the stump with the impliment digging into the ground, on contact lift and rotate (hopefully) flipping the stump up out of the ground.
Best of luck. ....
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 | Abbeywoods
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 110 New England
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2004-04-08 82518
Jonathan, glad you made the decision to buy. That is good news, now for the, "...what did I get myself into..." news. You didn't say what you are buying, so how much tractor you have will determine how much work you can do, and how efficiently. For the average CUT owner, a backhoe, as the other guys have suggested, will work out really well. For most part-time operators, the smaller buckets work best because they dig with the least resistance. Bigger CUT's with very powerful FEL's can, with the use of MFWD, dig deep enough to take out sapplings - several in one bite. But as Ken mentioned, care must be taken in how you address the ground, lest you twist your loader frame. Sub-soilers, middle busters, steel 3pt hitch fingers, and root rakes may do, but I never had much success with this method, mainly because to do this kind of work professionally requires me to do it fast. That leads us to the "not so much fun" solution.
When I have many stumps on large lots I sub-contract the job to a fellow contractor who uses a Rome Rake, a blade with curved heavy teeth that mounts to a crawler tractor, like a Cat, in place of the dozer blade. The Rome Rake, which was manufactured by Rome Industries (Fleco is another source), literally rips a path 15' wide, removing all obstacles, and pretty much leaving the soil intact. If you have quite a few stumps, and don't want to spend the time to dig, check your yellow pages for lot clearing or construction contractors, then get some estimates. But remember, every dollar you pay someone else, is a dollar you won't be spending for attachments like a backhoe, which are really handy to have. ....
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| Lenarguy
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 20 Mercer, PA
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2004-04-08 82535
A box blade is used for leveling ground, it would not be a consideration for removing stumps! Once the stumps are out and you want to fill and level they are great!!
As for the stumps, if they are small, (you said 2"), I have heard of someone who used a single shank subsoiler and went around the roots and them removed them faily easily. (He pulled his out with a chain after using the subsoiler). BUT, you need to be very careful about catching a root and rolling the tractor. You must go very slow and use extreme caution. If they have heavy roots, don't even attempt this process. I don't recommend this process, I am just sharing information. Good luck! ....
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| jkjordan
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 25 East Tennessee
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2004-04-10 82693
I may be misusing the equipment, but I've actually pulled out a lot of small stumps with the box blade. I usually just try pushing and pulling in the center from different angles, and if that doesn't work I use the edge to dig and one tooth to break some roots. If that doesn't work I wait until the next time I've attached the backhoe.
JKJ ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-04-11 82717
When using the rear blade on a box scraper it's good to avoid hitting anything--especially off centre. 3ph's are much stronger pulling than pushing things. In a story from another board a few years back a person broke off a lower arm mount while using the rear cutter like a dozer. If I recall, it took out a chunk of the cases. It's more common to head of bent lower link arms.
I'd try my box on small stumps if I had a need because that's what I have and it'd be faster than my hoe if it worked. I wouldn't take a run at anything or push while turning though.
....
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| beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan
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2004-04-11 82770
Jonathan, unless I'm reading too fast, I don't believe your question about the difference between the two types of rear bleades has been addressed. The grader blade is most usefull for final grading. It lacks the shanks that dig the soil, and doesn't have the ability to move large amounts of soil over long distances. They are nice for snow removal from driveways, and grooming grades and crowns on roads.
Box Blades are more aggressive earth cutters, and can be used for a variety of tasks that require cutting and moving soil. They can level compacted clays and clay/gravel road mixtures, and can be used to cut high areas of a plot and drag the dirt to low areas. ....
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