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Rear scrape blades

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burton76
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 9 Clayton, GA
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2004-04-02          81953


I've decided to purchase a Kubotta BX23 and now I am researching implements. First item: rear scrape blade. Each of the dealers I am working with has quoted a different manufacaturer's product - and widely varying prices. I would appreciate comments and opinions on Darrell Harp, International and Woods scrape blades . . .



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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-04-03          81963


I assume that a 'rear scraper blade' is what I call a box scraper. I can't help much with the particular brands except that Woods is very well known. I have a mid-quality after-market one that's worked just fine for years. Depending on frequency and type of use, a person doesn't have to pay top-of-line prices to get an implement that's going to do the work just fine for as long as the tractor is owned. Some features are available that run up the price but are not especially important for most homeowner uses.

For box scrapers, I'd first compare the weights. For the same lengths, the heaviest is often the best. Heavy ones cut better and also are usually more rugged. The weight does have to be within the 3ph capacity though. It's common to choose implements that are the same length as the rear tire tracks. Mine is a foot wider and there are advantages and disadvantages that were discussed here recently. I consider a hydraulic top-link almost essential for box scraper use, so you might include one in the cost estimates. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2004-04-03          82005


I too assume you mean a "box scraper". I have a King Kutter 6' which I use commercially. I paid $360 from TSC three years ago. As far as quality, it's about at the bottom of the list, really. But it is extremely strong and durable. I still have both front and rear cutting edges in pretty much the condition as new. And KK's cutting edges are reversible, so at this rate I'll never have to change them.

Now if you are talking a true "scraper blade" buy the best--otherwise the blade pivot will wear out and you lose all control as far as grading goes. I have seen some older brands that have had the pivot literally twisted off from abuse or poor design/mfg. I prefer LandPride myself. ....


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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-04-03          82019


Earthworks
(As far as quality, it's about at the bottom of the list, really)
LOL, by how you describe it later in your post you would think it is just the opposite? LMAO.
I was all set (and actually told my dealer to include the $700 Woods box scraper in my delivery. I was totaly lost afterwards. I went to look at KK again and saw the landscape rake next to it. The price of the woods landscape rake was $700 put together and $650 (I assemble it) I could not stand it any more!!! I called my dealer and cancelled the order for the box scraper and have now decided on getting the KK rake and box blade. If I add the cost up for the 2 (kk's) they come to just over the cost for the ONE WOODS item. My better sense told me that I was spending too much ching on some of these items that will be used so little (compared to you for example) I am real happy to hear you are satisfied with your KK scraper!!! I hope mine will work out for me the same.
Thanks for your vote of confidence. ....


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burton76
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 9 Clayton, GA
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2004-04-03          82033


Thanks to all . . . and to make myself clear . . . I am NOT talking about a box blade. My first priority is to clean out some ditches and slope a neglected driveway. I am told that the angle adjustments of a straight blade will better facilitate what I need to do. Any suggestions about these "non-box" blades would be appreciated. ....


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burton76
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 9 Clayton, GA
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2004-04-03          82035


A couple of other questions - from seeing concrete blocks rigged on blades in the past, I assume the heaviest blade the tractor can lift is desirable. A previous post makes this point about box blades. One dealer recommended a blade one foot wider than the tractor for my ditching work. That also seems to agree with a previous post. Comments? ....


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harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY
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2004-04-04          82062


burton I use my landpride scraper blade to ditch and fine grade. You do not need any weight unless you are trying to cut some extremely hard soil.

Many times You just have to play with the angle of the cutter by adjusting the top link. The cutting edge does need to be in top shape.

Ditches I pull the blade all the way to the side so it sticks out as far as possible. Once it starts to cut it will add weight and tend to want to pull the back of the tractor into the ditch. ....


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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-04-04          82073


If you've got to move material around a box scraper or a rear blade with end-plates is good. A blade without end-plates won't carry much material on the blade--it wind-rows off one or both ends. True enough a box scraper isn't much good for serious ditching but I think they are better for general grading work. I haven't seen a mid-mount true grader blade on a CUT but that'd be interesting.

I re-graded our drive to extend the slope down to the highway so more of the yard drains to the highway instead of passed the house. To do that I cut off and stored the compacted pit run. Then I cut down the top and moved material down the slope. I finally built a new crown and re-spread and compacted the pit run. It was all done with a box scraper. No loader work here except for final compacting. I drag material around with the box a lot and I don't have serious ditching to do. If I had ditching work, I'd need a blade with end-plates. A blade would also be better for building crowns, but one they're built tilt isn't needed to maintain them unless one of the rear tires has to drive over the top of the crown. 3ph side-levelers give some tilt to a box scraper. ....


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burton76
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 9 Clayton, GA
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2004-04-04          82079


Harvey: You said "I pull the blade all the way to the side so it sticks out as far as possible...". I'm not familiar with this adjustment. Tell me more about how this works. Is it available on box blades only? ....


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burton76
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 9 Clayton, GA
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2004-04-04          82081


TomG: I can understand the advantage of end plates on a blade, but I don't think I've ever seen such a thing. Are they an OEM accessory for certain makes of blades . . . or is there an aftermarket solution for adding them? Thanks! ....


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beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1333 Michigan
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2004-04-04          82085


Burton, before you buy a blade of any kind, make sure you have the lift height on your arms to accomodate the moldboard height of the blade. The shorter arms on the BX series may limit the moldboard height you can comfortably use. I had a BX sized tractor in the past and had to use blades that were designed with shorter moldboards, or I couldn't get the lift I needed. This would apply wether you decide on Box or Scaper blades, or any other 3-point implement. ....


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jimbrown
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 56 Cochise cnty Az
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2004-04-04          82089


I have BX22 and a land pride 60 inch blade. The blade is very heavy duty and will cut deeper than the BX can pull it. There is a slight amount of interference on the bottom 3 point connectors and the pins on the blade. The 3 point will lift the bottom of the blade about 12 inches off of the ground. The blade will outlast the tractor i am sure. ....


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harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY
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2004-04-04          82106


burton I have a landpride scraper plus other dirt stuff. On the JD CUT I pull both swing arm stabilizer pins, push scraper all the way to one side and repin stabilizers in that position usually gain 8+" by doing that. My old Ford had chains I tighten one and loosen the other...

I sometimes do that with the 3ph blower if I need to clear a little closer to a ditch with out worring about going in the ditch. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2004-04-04          82111


Brokenarrow:

What I meant about quality was, yes from a quality standpoint it looks like it was made by third-world labor. Everything from KK's choice of materials: cheaper, weaker, punched angle iron welded together to make a tube vs. square tubing which supports the ripper shanks, to the sloppily bent strips of metal used to hold the ripper pins, to sloppy holes to mount the lower hitch arms--etc. etc., and manfacturing techniques (crappy-looking welds) to the paint job (runs and drips, no primer)--it is VERY low quality. However, for the money it is dependable, so I stand by my original statement. I have rotary cutter made by KK and the same thing applies. BUT it cuts and for me that is what matters--it sure ain't gonna win "Best-In-Show" for looks!
....


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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-04-04          82113


earthwks
Boy I cant wait till I can buy my KK impliments now! LOL. Well the bottom line is it works, From reading other posts here it sounds like most people are happy with what they have bought regaurdless of name. Only a few times I have read that they were very unhappy with whatever they have bought. Sure, it would be nice to own a more quality piece of equipment but either way it beats the other option, (shovel/rake/push mower). I noticed the welds also when first looking at a few products. I just hope what ever KK I buy, that I get the same use out of mine that it sounds like you are getting from yours.
Thanks for your answers.
Tom ....


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burton76
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 9 Clayton, GA
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2004-04-04          82114


Beagle: The possible lift height issue is a valuable piece of information. What does the term mouldboard refer to? Is it the entire curved portion of the blade? ....


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burton76
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 9 Clayton, GA
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2004-04-04          82115


JimBrown: Could you further describe the intereference "on the bottom 3 point connectors and the pins on the blade"? This kind of stuff worries me a little... ....


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jimbrown
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 56 Cochise cnty Az
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2004-04-04          82124


I will try. Where the bottom drag links attach to the blade. The pins on the blade are attached to main frame of the blade. The main frame is square at this point and the drag links from the BX do not quite clear the frame of the blade when it is lifted off of the ground. They rub against the frame of the blade.It does not seem to cause any problem. I think it is because the BX 3 point is not quite a full class 1 hitch size. the land pride blade is very robust. You might not find this problem with cheaper blades. I use mine to cut drainge ditches and level dirt for landscaping so that water runs where I want it to. The biggest problem that I have is keeping it from digging deeper than I want it to. ....


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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-04-05          82175


Burton: Some upper-end blades have optional side plates. I haven't seen one but I suspect that a home grown version on an ordinary blade wouldn't work very well. I imagine there'd be greater and different stresses on the blade using end-plates and a blade would be designed to accommodate them.

That's a clever trick Harvey mentioned for getting some offset. Many blades have their own offset, which would be a good option to have for ditching. If you can't drive in the ditch, the blade has to come quite away outside the rear tire to do anything significant. Harvey also mentioned that you need good traction for this type work and you might get some opinions about a BX's capabilities. As mentioned here recently, ditching can be done sometimes by using a box scraper perpendicular to the ditch but it'd be a lot of back and forth for anything very long. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2004-04-05          82176


brokenarrow:
Because I use my stuff commercially, there has to be a certian level of "perpectable quality". When I show up at a client's home they don't want to see junky-looking, home-made equipment (I know the flak I used to get about an 18-year-old skidloader and 60-year old Fordson I used--both looked great but they were percieved as being old and not only that, when I'm charging $100 an hour the client needs to feel their money is going back into the biz. Bottom line: Sold the skidloader and the Fordson and bought a '02 NH TC33D and a '03 NH LS180 skidloader. Now that "wows" them (and it makes me feel a little better too : ) ). ....


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