Go BottomTerminal problem or just out of adjustment
 | CallMeBob
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 11 Southwest Missouri 
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2003-03-14 51152
I spent the morning at my local dealership. He has a nice 12-year-old 2WD Ford 1920 w/FEL for $11,000. It starts easy and runs clean and smooth. Cosmetically it is a beauty. It drives nice and power steering works fine. What worries me is the tractor does not move until the clutch pedal is almost completely out. The salesman says he will have it looked at and see if it can be adjusted What concerns me is even if it is adjusted and works good now is the adjustment just a quick fix for the real problem, a worn out clutch. I really fell for this tractor and need opinions from you guys. Is this just a common adjustment problem or should I steer clear. Also do you think the price reasonable for this 2WD tractor? I can not remember how many hours are on it but I did look and it was not enough to scare me away. I will recheck the hours tomorrow. I have really enjoyed hunting for a tractor but I am getting tired of seeing them in my sleep. Thanks ahead of time for any opinions.
Bob
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 | Billy
Join Date: Oct 1999 Posts: 975 Southeast Oklahoma 
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2003-03-14 51155
It's not uncommon to have to adjust the clutch. The thing to find out is how much clutch is left.
Prices below are tractor alone.
Premium $9,114
Good $8,439
Fair $7,595
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| Pacesetter
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 178 Maine
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2003-03-14 51157
I guess different books have different prices. My Book shows: $8660, $8020 and $7450 respectively. Figuring a FEL adds about $2500 in value, the pricing is right on. I just question the 2WD. Unless you are sure it will work well for your application, I would hold out for a 4WD.
Regarding the clutch, if it does need replacement soon, it could cost around $1000 as a ballpark figure. If you're really set on this tractor, I would allow for the worst and offer $1000 less than you would if you were shown paperwork that the clutch were just replaced..If you would offer $10,500 for the tractor, I would offer $9500. If the clutch goes, you don't get burned and if it doesn't you're ahead of the game. JMHO
Pacesetter ....
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| CallMeBob
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 11 Southwest Missouri
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2003-03-14 51163
Thank you Billy and Pacesetter for your input. The numbers do look pretty close. I will take Pacesetter's advice about offering less. This clutch issue may end up being a bargaining chip for me. Providing, as Billy says, there is some clutch left in the old girl. I will be using the tractor mostly for mowing and light loader work. I think 2WD will work okay for me. We rarely get more then a foot of snow at a time, so I hope this tractor can clear about 200 feet of paved drive. If this deal on the Ford falls through I may just bite the bullet and go new. I did get a firm price on a new 3430 Kubota with a 723 loader, quick attach bucket and R4s for $19,100 before taxes.
Bob ....
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| BUSBOY
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 15 Piedmont,OK.
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2003-03-14 51167
It sounds to me like the clutch has just about served it's useful life. On a twelve year old tractor this wouldn't be unheard of. If you can do the work yourself, you can probably get the disc relined and the pressure plate rebuilt for around 250.00. I would definitely replace the release bearing while you are there. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2003-03-15 51190
Two stage clutches (I'm assuming the 1920 has live pto) do tend to engage the TX fairly high up on the pedal. The first part of the travel engages the pto. I seem to recall Art saying that 1,500 hours is a pretty good life for a clutch, but I could be wrong.
I'd go by how many hours are on the tractor more than the age. I guess it's possible that doing loader work with a 2wd or poor operating technique could wear one out faster. In terms of adjustment, there should be 3/4" free travel at the top of the pedal. A clutch is a bad shape if there's excessive free play that can't be taken out by adjustment. However, decreasing free-play will make the TX engage even further up the pedal. Other signs of failure are rattling from the throw-out bearing erratic or jerky engaging and slipping during draft operations.
To put the 2wd thing in perspective, Every now and then I accidentally bump my 1710 with turf tires and no chains out of 4wd. In 2wd, with a loader and 3ph snow blower (both up) I don't have enough traction to back the tractor out of the shed. The rear wheels do have to over a few inch berm of ice and snow pack. No trouble in 4wd and I also have enough traction to do some moderate pushing snow around with the loader. If I had 2wd I'd definitely need chains.
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