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Siromer Jinma 200E

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harryinashed
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 3 United Kingdom
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2012-03-19          182803


Dear all,
I have just bought a 9month old Siromer 200E and have a slight problem with the hydraulics. I think I know the answer to this but I'd like to check. We were driving it back when I noticed a hydraulic oil leak from the breather valve at the top of the transmission tunnel. The hydraulics were raised and had a topper attached. This happened at mostly higher speeds, but was pretty constant for a few miles and showed no signs of stopping. I was really worried that there was a major problem but I think it is a combination of the following:

1. The oil level is too high. I was told that it had been refilled and that it was doing this when they were testing it out.
2. I probably shouldn't be whizzing around with the topper on the back.

Thoughts anyone? Ideally I'd like to be able to take the topper to and from the field on the back of the tractor on the roads, so I will need to travel at a reasonable speed. Has anyone any recommendations as to what I might do? Some kind of pin to fix the hydraulics in position? Is there such a thing for these tractors. As a total novice I wouldn't be surprised if there was and I was missing it!

If I don't drain it, will it damage the system?

Any advice much appreciated.

Richard




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Siromer Jinma 200E

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2012-03-19          182805


Richard, you should ask the seller to give you the manuals. There should be four; engine operation/maintenance, engine parts, tractor operation/maintenance, tractor parts. Fluids are covered in the 3rd one.

I haven't seen the new ones, but every other Siromer/Jinma I've ever seen was a dual sump tractor. That is, gear boxes and differentials use gear oil, hydraulics use hydraulic fluid. This is as opposed to a common sump tractor where the same type fluid runs everything.

Pretty sure the hydraulic sump is directly beneath the seat (between the seat and the differential housing), and the hydraulic fill/vent is behind the seat. It takes ISO32 hydraulic fluid. The rear differential/transmission/mid-connect box all use gear oil; 80W90 is probably best for your climate. The gear oil fill point and dipstick is in front of the seat on top of the transmission.

To check gear oil and hydraulic fluid levels on these machines you remove the dipstick, wipe, then place back ON the hole. Do not screw back in. Remove, check level, fill/drain as required, THEN screw it back in.

Drain for hydraulic sump should be at the rear of the tractor, above and to the left of the PTO spline (I think). There are several drains for the gear oil, all underneath the tractor; at least one - maybe two - under the rear diff, one under the tranny, one under the mid-connect box.

//greg// ....


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Siromer Jinma 200E

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harryinashed
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 3 United Kingdom
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2012-03-19          182806


Thanks Greg. Been looking through the manuals this evening. Is it possible that while driving with the hydraulic arms up the bumping around caused oil to come out of the air inlet? Also, do you know if it will damage the tractor to buzz around carrying a finishing mower at 'high' speeds.
Cheers,
Richard ....


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Siromer Jinma 200E

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2012-03-19          182812


Three things typically cause hydraulic fluid to spill down the back of the tractor; over-full, leak on the suction side, going up too steep a hill. Start by checking the dipstick, remember what I said about not screwing it in. If the level is good, start the tractor and look in the dipstick hole. If you see bubbles, you've got a leak.

If your cylinder seals are good, a little bouncing on the lift arms won't hurt. But there's no need to have the mower up in the air like a wren's tail either. Just far enough off the ground so the wheels don't bounce off the ground is sufficient.

//greg// ....


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