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what has caused my fuse to melt on my Jinma

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neilgoody
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 7 uk
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2011-03-20          177474


When tying to start my Jinma by using the glo plug setting on the ignition- after 4 seconds the actual 30 amp plastic casing on the fuse melted , it did not blow the actual fuse wire, but smoke was visible! since this happened I have nothing at all when i turn the switch, it is completely dead. Do you have any ideas please? I am only a novice and very confused about this! Any help greatly appreciated



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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2011-03-20          177477


Despite what it looks like, that fuse is likely blown. Remove and discard it. Check for heat damage to the fuse holder, you may have to replace the fuse panel as well.

Later machines fused the glow plug circuit separately. Sounds like yours one of the older ones where the GP circuit is protected only by the system fuse. When the system fuse goes, nothing works. Probable cause is a short in the glow plug circuit.

The glow plugs are tied together with either a copper buss bar or a short set of wires. Inspect it for any way the bar or wires are touching metal (other than the glow plugs themselves). If not, follow the bar or the wire set to a connecting point, usually close to the lower front side of the fuel tank. Disconnect the buss bar/wire set from the electrical system. Assuming the fuse holder is usable, plug in a new 30A system fuse. If you don't blow another fuse, it's time to replace the glow plugs.

//greg// ....


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neilgoody
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 7 uk
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2011-03-21          177489


Thanks so much for that information, the tractor is an older one (1999)so therefore I will check the fuse panel and replace the fuse as advised. I will let you know after i have done this.Your help is greatly appreciated!
Neil. ....


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neilgoody
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Posts: 7 uk
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2011-04-03          177767


Thanks for the advice, all working now and electric system back up and running,took the advice and replaced the glo-plugs.Neil. ....


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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2011-04-03          177770


One point about replacing the GPs. Each has a tiny little copper sealing washer. I hope you accounted for all three old rings before you installed the new GPs and new sealing rings. Cuz the old ones sometimes don't want to come out with their GPs

//greg// ....


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what has caused my fuse to melt on my Jinma

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neilgoody
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 7 uk
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2011-05-08          178355


more problems!:-( since replacing my GP's and managing to get the tractor going ok- i then tried to start it again and nothing!dead again!! just a click which i believe was from solenoid area? I followed an earlier thread on forum re starting problems 'starter dead' and followed instructions about jumping terminals S and M to energize solenoid, then jumping terminals M and B- this did spin the starter motor. Do i need a new solenoid?
Any help greatly appreciated
Neil. ....


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greg_g
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Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2011-05-08          178356


Not familiar with where you may have come up with those designators, so I'll postulate
B+ is likely the large post where the positive battery cable is attached
M is likely the motor post (the 2nd large post)
S is likely the small switch post on the solenoid

1. Jumping B+ and M tests the starter motor. It either spins or it doesn't. Operative word is "spin", this test will not actually turn over the engine. If it spins, move on to #2. If it doesn't, the starter's shot.
2. Jumping B+ and S tests the starter solenoid AND starter motor. This test should in fact turn over the engine. If it doesn't, the solenoid's shot. If it does, move on to #3
3. Turning the key to START should replicate test #2. If it does, you're good to go. If it doesn't, you have either a bad switch or a bad connection between the switch and the solenoid. If/when you get to this point, we can pick up the troubleshooting from there.

//greg// ....


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neilgoody
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 7 uk
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2011-05-09          178375


hi,
Did the 1st test jumping the said terminals- this did spin.
Did 2nd test but this didnt turn over the engine.
need to do test 3 yet to check switch, but looks like solenoid shot.
thanks
Neil ....


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greg_g
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Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2011-05-09          178376


Don't waste your time on test 3 right now, just order a new solenoid. Reason being is that test 2 isolated the keyswitch, the clutch interlock switch and all the associated wiring. Once the new solenoid is installed, repeat test 2. Assuming it passes, THEN perform test 3 to make sure everything's good between the keyswitch and the solenoid.

//greg// ....


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neilgoody
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 7 uk
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2011-05-11          178409


Greg Thanks once again.I have taken another look today and noticed that the S terminal was very loose and i could waggle it about.Can i take the solenoid apart? this i have never done before. There seems to be two Philips screws holding it together but on loosening these there was a resistance,is this because of the magnets and i just wasn't brave enough to prise apart.Or am i wasting my time?? Thanks
Neil ....


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greg_g
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Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2011-05-11          178410


Be careful, it's wiggling on nothing but solder insider. But you must have lost a nut, because it shouldn't wiggle. With no wire attached, there should be one nut on the post to hold it tight against the housing. Then you put on washer/connector/washer/nut/jam nut. Or washer/connector washer/lock washer/nut, whichever you prefer.

As far as taking it apart, it's a crap shoot. Some folks manage to get them back together, but only after discovering there wasn't much they could do inside anyway. Others unfortunately destroy them in the process. I personally consider them consumables. To me I'd rather just replace one - than fiddle around inside. Even taking it to an auto-electric shop would likely cost more than an OE replacement.

For clarification though, my comments apply only to the solenoid. The starter motor itself is much more expensive, and much easier to work on

//greg//
....


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