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Is starter dead or

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kalpia
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 77 Extreme Western on the beautiful St. Croix River, WI
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2010-12-12          175710


It figures, 18+ inches of snow, -4f and it won't start (ya gotta love Wisconsin in the winter). I have an Agracat 2920 (Jinma 254). Turn the key and nothing, no click. The Amp needle goes all the way negative so the starter drawing some power. Battery is good, connections are clean. This morning it took out the 30A fuse. :-(

I got lucky the last couple of times I needed it and it finally started but there was no particular reason why, it just did.

My questions is: Is this "most likely" a bad starter or is there something else I should be looking at?

Thanks




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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2010-12-12          175711


Replace the 30A fuse, leave the keyswitch in the OFF position, put the gearshift in NEUTRAL. If you can then jump start the tractor with a screwdriver, then most likely you mashed the clutch interlock switch with the clutch pedal. More often than not, that shorts the keyswitch-to-solenoid voltage straight to ground - and takes out the 30A system fuse in the process.

//greg// ....


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kalpia
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 77 Extreme Western on the beautiful St. Croix River, WI
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2010-12-12          175720


Thanks Greg. I tried jumping the large and small lugs on the solenoid and got nothing. The key was in the ON position but I don't know that that would make any difference. As I understand it, everything is bypassed when doing this; key, interlocks, etc. I fear the worse. I think I'll have to take off the start/solenoid and have it checked/repaired. Before I do this I'll check to see if I get power to the small lug when the key is turned all the way. That should tell me if there's an electrical issue.

Why can't this happen when it's 70 and the sun is shining? ....


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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2010-12-13          175739


Could be a fault in the switch, battery ground, solenoid, etc.

Get a remote starter (might not be the correct name) at an auto supply store for about ten bucks. From the push-button, one alligator lead goes to the starter terminal, the other to the battery positive.

If it cranks when you push the button it's safer than short-circuiting the starter. If it starts, you can use it until it gets warmer out. ....


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kalpia
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 77 Extreme Western on the beautiful St. Croix River, WI
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2010-12-14          175766


Thanks Auerbach, but it was one of the first things I tried early on. Nothing! Jumped the larger terminal (+12) to the smaller one and not a click, wheer, or buzz. If it wasn't so cold I'd have my wife try to start it while I checked the voltage on the small termainal to see if it's getting the +12 and also check the voltage accross the battery while trying to start just in case there's an internal short (in the battery) that happens during load but these are both "clutching to straws".

It's supposed to be near 10 degrees today so maybe I'll try to pull the starter and have it checked. ....


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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2010-12-14          175768


Presumably you jumped terminals S and M (see photo). That's supposed to energize the solenoid. If not, try again - but this time with a new 30A system fuse and the keyswitch OFF. The reason is to determine whether or not the keyswitch is part of the problem. Unless there's a complete open internal to the solenoid, you should at least hear a click (assuming good battery).

Then jump terminals M and B. That should spin the starter motor itself. By that I mean spin only - not actually start the tractor. If that works - but shorting S and M doesn't - then you just need a new solenoid. If they both work, back up and look under the right floorboard at the clutch interlock switch.

//greg// ....

Picture Link


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kalpia
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 77 Extreme Western on the beautiful St. Croix River, WI
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2010-12-20          175875


Thanks greg, my starter looks a little different. Using your diagram Term."B" has the +12 (direct from battery) and another wire, about 16 ga, I'm not sure where or what that wire does. Term."S" has 2 wires connected, 1 is labeled 11 the other (yellow) has no number. There is no Term."M".

There is a twisted metal brace that goes from the solenoid case to the case of the starter, it looks like a grounding bar and there is continuity between it and ground. That's the only other bolt/nut on the unit.

It also seems like there are just 2 bolts that hold this on; one to the rear and engine side of the solenoid and another 180 degrees below it. The top one is a bugger to get at!

"Hurry Watson, the games afoot" - S. Holmes ....


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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2010-12-20          175876


Ok. Even though your starter isn't an exact replica of the diagram I uploaded, all the principles are the same. Consider that "twisted metal brace" as your terminal M.

The small wire on your terminal B goes up through the 30A system fuse on the way to the ammeter, and then on to the back of the keyswitch. This is your unregulated 12v circuit.

One of the wires on your terminal S starts up at a different post on the keyswitch - goes through the clutch interlock switch before getting to the solenoid. It's #11 between the interlock and the solenoid. There's only voltage on that wire when the key is in the START position. I'm going to guess that the 2nd wire goes up to the glow plug buss bar. Otherwise there's nothing on the tractor that needs voltage with the key in START.

I found the best way to get ahold of the upper starter bolt is with a socket, a long socket extension, and a ratchet. You'll need a long enough extension (or extensions) so that they are BEHIND the solenoid - which situates the ratchet FORWARD of the starter. Plenty of clearance that way for as much torque as you need.

//greg// ....


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kalpia
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 77 Extreme Western on the beautiful St. Croix River, WI
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2010-12-21          175888


I finally got the starter off and tried to get the solenoid apart. It had water in it, actually it was frozen water. I melted it with a torch and applied power to the terminals and it now spins the motor. I'll take it to a shop to see if they can check it, clean it, repair it,and maybe water proof it (if it's good, I don't want to put a bad one back on).

I'll keep you posted. Thanks to all.

Update 12/26
I had the starter looked at and the guy couldn't find any problems. Brushes good, no burnt or dark spots, no indication of arcing. He did lube the shaft but that's about it. Put it back in and so far it's started twice just like it should. He charged my $120 but I guess if that fixes the problem it's money well spent. Happy New Year to all, we're expecting another 10 to 12 inches of snow by NYEve. ....


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