Go BottomRemoving mower blades
 | Oliver
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 210 Massachusetts 
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2005-08-03 114287
The blades on my KK RFM are in desperate need of sharpening, but I can't budge the bolts that hold them in place. I know they are reverse threaded. Part of the problem is I need to prevent the blade from spinning, so I have a hard time getting any leverage. Any thoughts?
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 | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada 
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2005-08-03 114290
We use two different methods, depending on whether it is a 'field' job, or a 'shop' job.
Before you try either (or any other) method, apply plenty of penetrating oil, and use anti-seize compound before re-assembly.
The first is the 'shop' method, a big sturdy C-clamp, put it around the edge of the deck, the mower blade cannot spin past it.
The 'field' method is a hunk of 2"x4" stuck either under the deck to jamb the blade, or in between the belt and pulley to act as a sort of wheel chock for the pulley.
WARNING: Mower blade removal is a prime source of busted knuckles. When they let go they usually do so quite suddenly.
Best of luck. ....
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 | yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan 
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2005-08-03 114293
I use Murf's suggestion of a hunk of 2 x4 jammed between blade and deck. I put a cheater bar are the bar handle and tap on it with a hammer or another chunk of 2 x4 to get an impact type of hit to break it loose. Work gloves are must. I usually lube the threads with used motor oil. Are you sure they are L.H. threads? ....
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| Oliver
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 210 Massachusetts
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2005-08-03 114294
The note in the owners manual says bolts are left hand thread. Since they emphasized this, I assume this is the opposite of a normal bolt. I tried to get them off last night, initialy without gloves -- bad move...The two minute walk to the barn for the gloves was time very well spent... ....
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 | Iowafun
Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 955 Central Iowa 
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2005-08-03 114299
Use the gloves and protect your knuckles. I've used clamps and chunks of wood as described above. I wound up using a 1/2" drive breaker bar with extension. A small 3/8" drive impact wrench didn't work.
On a different deck, I used a 1/2" drive impact wrench to no effect. Ended up with an extension pipe on the 1/2" drive breaker bar.
As mentioned already, be careful when it cuts lose. BEst case, you end up on your butt. Worst case you end up smashing some part of your body and end up vocalizing a string of non-repeatable adjectives. ....
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| Oliver
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 210 Massachusetts
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2005-08-03 114300
Well, I guess I will make sure my boys aren't around in case Dad lets loose with a few "work words"... ....
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| Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2005-08-03 114303
In the shop, the boys have a tool they call Big Johnson.
It is a 3/4" drive breaker bar I bought at a garage sale years ago. The handle is 60" long, and about 1.75" diameter, the guy that sold it to me said he 'acquired' it when working in the mines up north. It has a nifty sring-loaded 'snapper' that works like a torque wrench sort of, you pre-load a spring that works a hammer action weight in the handle, when you pull to a certian point it releases the spring loaded weight and gives the end of the handle a big jolt. It's quite un-nerving the first time you use it. It either breaks the nut loose, or snaps the bolt, usually the first time too.
The bolt has to be pretty stuck to use it though, it's usually more work to get it out, carry it across the shop and use it than to just struggle with the stuck bolt using what's at hand.
Heat sometimes helps too, but usually the penetrating oil and a 5 minute coffe break waiting does the job.
Best of luck. ....
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| Oliver
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 210 Massachusetts
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2005-08-03 114309
Thnaks for the help. All three blades came off pretty easily. ....
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