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This is a really good dialogue, which I'm grateful for. Since winter is hitting, I'll probably debate it myself for a few months and then see what the conditions are for spring before considering a purchase. There are a few factors that have me thinking of it still...

<p>-I'd be mixing it around back, - The trip to/from there with a full loader of aggregate is OK with a tractor, and doable (but tight) with a pickup. I plan on buying a dump trailer, but I was going to buy something (5th wheel) that I can haul the tractor in too, so that would'nt fit back there. It's all dirt everywhere, and the only pavement is the driveway apron, so I keep away from it... leftover concrete mess is just 'road base underlayment' :)

<p>Homeowners can't buy readymix right now, unless you are planning at least a 100 yard pour, and get on the waiting list 4 weeks in advance... Makes the small projects, even stacked up, difficult to do. The other option is to hire it out, since the larger contractors can get on the ready-mix providers lists.

Do other areas have rationing? I can go to evil orange (HD) and buy bags of portland cement, costing me about $24 a yard for cement, and then aggregate costing about another $25 a yard. When I could buy concrete, before the shortage, a year ago, I was paying ~70 a yard, but I know it's gone up now... So I don't save much mixing it, and a readymix truck will have a higher quality product, but if I can't get it...

The pump truck seems like the best method, with the pto mixer a second, and the dump trailer the best idea, but too tight for the majority of the work I have...

PTO Concrete Mixer
Operating and Attachments
Replies 16 Post by HuckMeat

I believe the States must specifically ask for help before the Fed's can organize and land/operate in the states area - It's part of the constitution, designed to protect the states from the Fed's. The governor of LA would not, even when prompted by Fed officials, Hence no early intervention/support.

IMHO, this mess is directly on the Gov and Mayor.

OUTSTANDING News For Diesel Vehicle Owners in TN
Parts and Repair
Replies 36 Post by HuckMeat

Sounds like I'm better off borrowing the skidsteer when I need to do this work.

What about running other "small" hydraulics. I've seen a PTO cement mixer that has a cylinder for lowering/dumping the mixer, single acting (gravity/cement pulls it down).

Anybody used these mixers? I have a lot of areas that are pretty much inaccessable, so I will probably rent a buggy and call the redi-mix truck, but I do a lot of small mixing 2 cf at a time in an electric mixer for after work deck piers, etc.

Adding skidsteer hydaulics to L4330 HST
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by HuckMeat

I've got an identical situation - How deep/thick does the layer of topsoil need to be? Should I install my sprinkler system first, then add topsoil and smooth/grade?

grass preparation advice
Garden and Landscape
Replies 3 Post by HuckMeat

SIPS are a great way to build. I used ICF's for my walls, and then the icynene type insulation for my attic, but wish I would have figured out how to fit SIPS into the budget.

The only important thing is that they be installed properly, with all gaps/joints sealed with foam glue. In super cold environments, moisture from the interior can condense on the underside of the outer sheathing, if there are unsealed gaps. Google "Juno" and SIPS and you'll find the details.

All in all, a good way to build.

Structural Insulated Panels SIPs
Home Improvement
Replies 2 Post by HuckMeat

I've been using dewalt with pretty good experience, but some of their corded tools are not as impressive or long lasting as I thought they should be.

I use the dewalt 18 volt set - All work pretty good, but I still pull out a corded circular saw when cutting longs cuts in OSB (at least for 3/4 OSB) and I use a corded hammerdrill, as the battery pack drill gets tired after one hole.

But, the best, most favorite tool I've ever owned, which continues to amaze me: The dewalt 18v hex shank chuck impact driver. I've never used such an amazing tool for fasteners (drywall screws, lags, deck screws, anything you can turn). The short overall profile, speed, "feel" and torque is amazing. I'd give away the dewalt radio, saw, jigsaw, drill, flashlight, as long as I got to keep the impact driver.

My brother swears by the Makita impact driver. His is a fair bit lighter, with a 9.6 battery pack.
The neat thing about the impact drivers, is you can reach tough places, and when you are on a ladder, reaching behind your neck, and can't really apply the driving force, you don't need to anyway. The "ratcheting thud" of the impact driver just helps it find home.

RIDGID Cordless Tools
Home Improvement
Replies 23 Post by HuckMeat

I'm doing something similar - I wanted 50psi air down in the barn from my garage, for blowing out plumbing, etc.

I buried a pex line alongside my water line. I bought it in a 500' roll, so I didn't have any joints buried.

I crimped on connectors to convert it to 1/4" NPT, and so far things seem great.

The problem with pex is that you really shouldn't pressureize it too high, but as I recall it was good to 120psi at 180 degrees for water.

I put a regulator inline between the compressor and the pex supply, so that the pex line is always at 50 psi.

You can buy the crimp tools, pex, and fittings on flea-bay.

Buried air line
Home Improvement
Replies 15 Post by HuckMeat

For me, it was kind of moot- I was pouring 1.5" of gypsum based concrete over it anyway... The OSB seems to be doing great. With the concrete there, it makes for a VERY solid floor. I'd be surprised if it ever squeaked.

The route I would have gone, had I to do over again (and found this product before I did my engineering work) is a product called speedfloor. Steel trusses are set in pockets in yor foundation, grouted in, on 4' centers. Lock bars are installed between the trusses, and OSB/plywood is layed down between the trusses. 4" of concrete is poured, cured, and then the lock bars are knocked out, OSB falls down, and you have NO wood in your floor. :)

With wood being the quality it is these days, I tried to use engineered wood products everwhere I could - My LVL ledgers are a lot stronger than 2x12, and don't warp/twist themselves to pieces after I install them.

Only my interior wall partitions/framing were "regular" lumber, and I had to replace nearly 20 studs because they would twist/warp as we were installing mechanicals. It was enough of a pain (and around here, at nearly $4 a stud, expensive) enough that I'm designing the barn/shop I'm going to build this summer without any wood, except the T*G Pine I'm putting inside the barn walls. Does anybody else find the same problems with the lumber in their area now-a-days?

Of course, a whole new thread would be the new pressure treated wood. Not only will it twist and split itself apart, it will eat your nails doing it! :)

OSB Price
Home Improvement
Replies 29 Post by HuckMeat

OK, now to really mess this thread up:

1) Could you install a transfer switch between a main panel and a sub panel, say, a sub panel that fed only the most important circuits (like the furnace blower?)

2) What transfer switches have you guys installed on your houses? I'd be looking for a 200A switch (to carry the panel rating).

PTO Generators Observations
Shop Tools
Replies 85 Post by HuckMeat

Here is a link to a construction website - The site is on ICF walls, which I just built my house out of, but they discuss the best way to insulate attics in these houses - These are long-time building guys who focus on energy efficiency and cost. Their recommendations are SIPS or spray in foam.

The Icynene Insulation System
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 46 Post by HuckMeat

I think the air pressure was low, and it was really cold out, as I made a turn in a rocky section of my land. I heard a hiss, and now the tire is flat, but it appears that I unseated the bead, as opposed to tearing the sidewall. (tires are pretty new).<br>
<br>
How do I re-seat this? Or should I just pull the wheel off and take it down to the dealer?<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
murph

re-seating front tire
Kubota Tractors
Replies 10 Post by HuckMeat

Line pressure (after upgrading the regulator, which is set to pass up to 150 psi) is at ~120 psi. Just a long (total length is 3300 feet) water line ( 2" diameter). Elevation is probably the biggest factor here though.

New construction low water pressure boost And use the backhoe
Home Improvement
Replies 7 Post by HuckMeat

I have a 4330 with the loader (723 I think?) and the BH90 - wheel weights, block heater, and a couple of toys for the back. I'd say you got a good deal compared to my prices. I think you will have a great time, I love my tractor, and the BH90 has bought be some serious good will with the neighbors.

Have fun,
murph

Closed a deal on 3130 723 BH90
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by HuckMeat

I would second Art's mention of weight. I have a 4330, and I never run out of loader capacity. I end up doing best with 3x sets of wheel weights and the backhoe on the back, and even then, the loader will easily lift more than I am comfortable moving around. (But I will feel the back get light, so I don't move it).

Best loader lift capacity
Antique Tractors
Replies 12 Post by HuckMeat

It's been a while since I last posted here. I've been busy building my house (getting close to drywall). But we're getting hammered with snow today.<br>
<br>
So I took my first afternoon doing snow mitigation (granted, it was cold for here (~20) and blowing hard, which made it pretty unpleasant. I used the FEL, and thought about hooking up the box blade (to at least give me another pass) but removing the backhoe and getting the 3ph setup in the weather wasn't much fun in the wind.<br>
<br>
I have an 86 diesel ford F250 HD that I will never ever be allowed to sell (my wife brought it with her to our marriage!) and we keep it running as our farm truck. With the new place, we have ~1600 feet of driveway, and based on today and taking a cue from some here, I'm thinking of buying a plow for it, so I can have a heater and a radio. :) <br>
<br>
Alternativly, I might buy a back blade I can angle to drag these out, a neighbor down the road does this. The snow always melts off in a week or two (from the sides) so I don't think I need a blower.<br>
<br>
Suggestions on a pickup plow that has good bang for the buck and skid shoes (for a long gravel driveway). Or should I reconsider using the 4330 and a back blade? It's fun, but it does get cold on a long driveway.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
John

Pickup plow recommendations or Box Blade
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 6 Post by HuckMeat

I'm finishing up some of the concrete work on my house, and I'm thinking about trying to move concrete around the perimeter of the house using my loader, possibly with some kind of funnel attachment so I can "dump" into 12 and 16" sonotubes. Does this seem reasonable? I have the LA853 loader, how much does wet concrete weigh? The truck can't back around the house, but I travel the route will full buckets of wet dirt and rock without trouble (one downhill). Thoughts? Should I just break down and keep paying for pump trucks, even though it's something like $2.50 a minute, plus travel time? Has anyone done something like this?

Concrete Mule
Operating and Attachments
Replies 4 Post by HuckMeat

My wife drives a TDI beetle. The only problem she has had was after letting the fuel get low, the guage read empty with the light on, even when filled. This was fixed under warranty, and no other problems to speak of. Fantastic little engine.

VW TDI FUEL GAUGE FAULTY
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 3 Post by HuckMeat

I just had my driveway done - The first 1000 feet were pretty gentle slopes, with 2 culverts and build up in the crossings of the draws where the culverts are. The last 650 feet are in boulder strewn foothills, and took some work.

I had a minimum 12' wide road cut, and needed some blasting (in the boulder area) and my excavator, also my neighbor, charged me almost $15000, plus another $8k for putting down 7" of pit run on it. This included compaction, etc before the final grading and pit run. Even before pit run, I ran 20+ cement trucks over it without rutting - A tribute to the dirt work, since the exsisting road leading to my drivway didn't fair as well.

My geography tends to be expensive, but I did get a pretty good deal. Other excavators were charing about $1 per square foot of road space, excluding pit run.

Advice Needed - Gravel Driveway Construction
Garden and Landscape
Replies 22 Post by HuckMeat

Sounds like you need to speed up the engine RPM to match the task better. What engine RPM do you run when things work normally in low/medium, and are you adjusting it for the different task? I usually run about 2400 or so for loader work, a point that keeps the engine from lugging but gives me good workability. I suspect to go fast I'd need to raise that, plus the range lever change.

KUBOTA HYDRO RANGE
Kubota Tractors
Replies 20 Post by HuckMeat

I have no idea on the quality, but quick-tach plates usually sell from dealers on Ebay for $89-$125 - Don't know if they are any good.. Gonna try one next winter when I convert my PHD to hydraulic.

skidsteer quick tach plates
Operating and Attachments
Replies 7 Post by HuckMeat