Tractorpoint Login

print < Tractorpoint Login

Search for =

Topic

Hi All:<br>
I have had this tractor a couple of years and it does a good job. However, since I got it I could never fully shift into high gear(road grear), it goes part way in but not enough to engage. The other gears are fine but a little stiff getting them in. The forward neutral reverse shifter works smooth its just the shift lever that engages the gears. I'm told it's bent selector forks, what think you?

250 top gear hard to engage
Belarus
Replies 1 Post by belarus250

Simple things first. Always have the fuel tank at least half full. I saw this as a post and tried it, it works. My hard starting is a thing of the past!

250 not starting well
Belarus
Replies 7 Post by belarus250

belarus250 has posted a new photo.

Subject: ring job.

Description: <br>pistons fine

ring job - New Pix by belarus250
Photos
Replies 1 Post by belarus250

Finished:
Job done. Got it running today and am very pleased with how clean it burns. It was quite a nice job, things came apart easy - it is a simple little engine. Of course the thing was apart not too long ago. The prior owner did the rings and how it was done was the issue. Cylinders not deglazed, no rings in lower groove, no spring ring in upper oil groove on rear piston.

Oh, while apart I cut off the downward extension of the exhaust pipe from the muffler and re welded it upward to put the exhaust pipe up. This will keep exhaust gas away from the 3pth area and make it bearable for log splitter use.

I hope this helps other readers of this forum in some small way.

piston swap
Belarus
Replies 10 Post by belarus250

Bushhog:

If you are careful you will not need gaskets. One nut, as you know, holds the individual valve covers to its respective head. That nut has a copper washer under it that is reusable. The gasket that seals the cover to the head should be reusable, use a little silicone gasket maker to be sure.

As to your problem. Are you sure this is where you should look? Can you explain just what the engine is doing or not doing? Does it only turn half way with the starter, or, can you not turn it over by hand fully? Use the nut on the front of the engine in the centre of the crankshaft pully and a wrench. Let us know.

Belarus valve cover nut removal
Belarus
Replies 5 Post by belarus250

test picture

250 piston
Photos
Replies 1 Post by belarus250

test 3

image to message problems
Website Operations Howto
Replies 6 Post by belarus250

I got the old girl running good enough to use as my sprayer tractor with the final drives in the upper position. To get clearance for the soybeans I have to take off the loader. It is for sale. It's a KMW model K66 made in Fort Erie Ontario for this tractor. All hoses, fittings and Geeson control spool. This loader bolts on, no weling needed.

Selling loader for Belarus 250
Belarus
Replies 4 Post by belarus250

I had the same problem. Turns out it was worn bushings that caused the starter core to contact the inside of the outer case. This drag if not fixed will result in burning out the starter. Could be just bushings will do if you catch it early. Have it rebuilt.

starter problems
Belarus
Replies 4 Post by belarus250

Further to Marklugo's excellent suggestion on the 'no lift ' problem. I took off the football shaped flat plate, about 2" wide. Under it was an aluminum( could be steel) disc. This disc has a hole in it, the hole should be threaded, mine was not. I threaded that aluminum disc the same size as the hold down bolt for the plate. Now, I had a look at another 250 it had a steel plug that was threaded to accept one of the hold down bolts to help pull out this disc, it is hard to get out but will come. Once that disc is out, you will have a compression spring, pull it out. Then a machined piece that should pull out. That machined piece should slide up and down free. Then, do the decompression lever thing and use the starter to pump oil up and out the open hole. Messy as mark says. Re assemble and I hope it solves your problem like it solved mine.

Belarus Hydraulic Problem
Belarus
Replies 20 Post by belarus250

Murf:

Good call. Arms held with weight. Some odd plumbing went on with the loader install. I chained the bucket and lift rams and the pressure then went to the 3pth. Will isolate loader.

Odd little duck, this tractor. Its no start situation was too much oil in the governor housing and a missing popet spring in the injector pump. Starts right up now and thumps away.

Thanks for your interest.

3pth no lift under load
Belarus
Replies 4 Post by belarus250

Rancher:
I think I have your problem solved! I just got a 250 and it did the same thing. Hand pump and prime the system, starts, runs for a while quits. After the primary filter and before the lift pump on the injector pump I cut the line and put in an electric 12volt fuel pump. Now all my fuel air leaks show wet and the faulty lift pump (that was the villan) gets a boost. To test this I unhooked the pump and the engine quit. I think your problem is the lift pump. I don't know what the cost of a new one is but I suspect my electric pump is cheaper and has many advantages.

420A stops running
Belarus
Replies 3 Post by belarus250

Can someone tell me how to replace the seals at each end of the tubes that contain the pushrods. I have a bad leak at the top and bottom of one pushrod tube on the rear cylinder. For some unknow reason the last person in put hose clamps on each end of the tubes in an attempt to perhaps hold the tubes up against the seals? The worst leak is the upper seal. <br>
Sure would like to know how much I have to take apart to replace them. I hope it's just the rocker cover, rocker shaft and rockers and not the whole head on that cylinder. <br>
<br>
The seals look brittle, I guess the heat beats them up good. <br>
Thanks in advance for any help with this.<br>
Ken

250 oil leak pushrod tubes
Belarus
Replies 2 Post by belarus250

It's ALIVE! Pull started it today.
Things aren't 100% but at least I know it runs, sort of. The big thing was draining out the extra oil in the injector pump. Once I got diesel at the injectors it pull started right up. When it first started (remember it had not run since rings and valves were done by the last owner)lots of oil and more fuel leaks. Front valve cover leaking oil down the fins, lift pump plunger leaks,etc. Interesting I let it run for 4 hrs, I was afraid to shut if off, it quit. I think what happened was the temp lead to the electric fuel pump came off, it ran for a while but I think the leak at the lift pump plunger let enough air in the system that the injector lines got air. I cracked the injector lines and used the starter to prime again but alas the battery was done. Looks like another tow job but after I get the leaks fixed. I'll update then. With the new ring job it turns over stiff,starter might be bad after all the cranking.
it
Ken

Help 250 no start orphan
Belarus
Replies 11 Post by belarus250