Go Bottom7274 loose engine bolts
 | jkinney
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 21 maine 
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2007-11-30 148866
Ive been tightening keeping them tight and put locking tabs on the bolts like the ones that came with the reinforcement brackets. Over 2000 hours on my tractor the other day I noticed some wierd movement on the front when I lifted the bushhog with the lift. The end result is these bolts loosen because the frame holes are becoming elongated (bigger) I had already put longer bolts into the engine years ago (check the depth into the block). Im going to repair by making some backing plates drill a hole for the engine bolt, tighten the bolt into the engine and weld the plate onto the frame. When I checked my bolts yesterday they were all loose, all 4 on each side even tho they had tabs to stop them from backing out. I have no damaged threads in the engine or cracks yet. Any opinions on my method of repair. I hate to sell her but it is on my mind.
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 | earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan 
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2007-11-30 148867
If I undertood you right, the welded plate with new holes would be on the bottom? That might work for a while, until the bolts stretch leaving you back to where you started. You could weld some tight-fitting washers or steel bushings on top where the bolts go through to give side support. But you woill have to make allowance for those bushings in the old mounting area.
I don't know the configuration of the stack-up of the block to the mounting area, etc.. But I'm thinking if you went with your idea of the welded plate, to keep the engine from torquing I would do what is called "pinning" the engine to the old mounting area. All you do is mount the engine as you plan, drill two or three precision-fit holes through the block and the mount areas then tap in a solid locating pin made specifically for those drilled holes. The holes must be straight up and down and not tapered/elongated due to lack of space of using the drill. And they have to be done while the engine is installed--it would be nearly impossible to locate and drill new holes perfectly. The pins are available a good auto supply store or even a good hardware store. There are also what is called "roll pins" which may work but by nature have some give to them and may not be good to use. A roll pin is just that. It's a flat pice of spring steel that is rolled into a pin shape. It's hoolw which allows it to driven into a hole and extracted just as easily. ....
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 | yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan 
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2007-11-30 148872
My 7275 had the same problems but was fixed (I think) with the re-enforcement bracket and nut tabs. Are/Were the tabs tight against the flat side of the bolt hex so they couldn't turn. My guess the sharp corners of the hex slipped past the tab.
If the holes are elongated that much to cause trouble, maybe you could drill them out oversized and press bushings in place and TIG a spot on the bushings so they won't come out.
Mine has been a good tractor and I would hate to get rid of her even though she's 12 years old. ....
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| jkinney
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 21 maine
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2007-11-30 148876
Im stating that the bolts did not turn. Ive got alot of hours on this rig, Ive owned it for 11 years. What im saying is there enough slop between the frame and the engine to start an elongation process that loosens the bolts because the frame chafes elongates etc.and metal disappears. All my bolts were tabed. Ive got holes in the front frame bolts that have close to 1/8" clearance clean around the bolt. I put the reinforcement on in 2000 I built more of those (2) locking tabs for the fron bolts also, because I got tired of finding them loose. ....
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| earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2007-11-30 148878
Then I would consider using the pinning technique I mentioned earlier to keep the engine from vibarting which is causing the elongated holes. ....
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