Go BottomBox Blade don t scrape
 | Petwa
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2003-02-20 49593
Got a set of toys recently, am new to this fun. One of my implements that came with my Yanmar YM2000 was a box blade made by Lowery out of Alabama. Try as I might I can't seem to get it adjusted where the teeth contact mother earth. I'm believing the top link must be too long. I only need another 2 inches and I believe that will angle the teeth more towards the ground. How deep should the teeth engage or should they not? My top length measures 21 inches long from centerline of pin holes. Do they make a 19" guy? The gentleman that sold me this fun package suggested Tractor Supply, they have those here in South Carolina. I have enjoyed this site, I've learned quite a bit, many thanks for all the help.
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 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada 
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2003-02-20 49610
Sounds like you really need a shorter top link. Are the scarifiers (teeth) not adjustable also? Mine slide up and down in individual slots.
The starting point or neutral point on a box blade can be determined by parking the tractor on a paved surface and lowering the blade to the ground.
You should be able to rest the front and rear cutting surfaces of the box scraper on the concrete or asphalt at the same time. While there, your top/center link should have adjustment left over sufficient to tilt further in either direction.
Aftermarket replacement links are plentiful and usually priced around $30.00. If you can't find one short enough I have a small supply of new Cat 1 links that run 13.5 minimum and 20 inches max.
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| petwa
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-02-20 49631
The scarifier doesn't engage the ground on a level surface, it's about 1-2 inches high, the back blade touches the surface but the forward blade misses by about 1/4-1/2". I've adjusted the top link as tight as it will go to reach this position, tried the forward holes on the hitch. I found a Tractor Supply but they only have the 20" links for a cat I. They were 20 bucks. I believe I'm needing a 19". If you have one let me know how I can acquire it, many thanks. ....
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| petwa
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-02-20 49632
By the by to answer your other question, the scarifiers are adjustable, two holes, I've got them as far down as they will go. ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-02-20 49643
I can send you one for $30.00 shipping included. Click on my name and e-mail me if you are interested. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-02-21 49680
If I was doing it, I'd be trying to put a hydraulic top-link on and figuring what length of cylinder is needed. I do like my box scraper but I'm sure I'd like it a lot less and maybe not at all without the hydraulic top-link.
My scarifiers are probably longer and they have three positions. I'd guess that the scarifiers fully down would hold the blade maybe 8" off the ground when the link is as short as it goes. I hope that a mere one-inch shorter does the trick. I do need considerable penetration of the scarifiers when I'm using the box to remove sod.
The position used for the top-link mount on the tractor will make a bit of difference on how far up a box can be rolled. The upper positions are usually used for high-draft implements, and a box might qualify as one. The upper positions might let the box roll p more as well.
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| petwas
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 3 upstate South Carolina
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2003-02-28 50245
Mark,
I got the shortened link! Now that was quick. Thanks a bunch. It's been raining for 3 days so I haven't had the chance to check things out. It would appear that this will do the trick though. If you don't mind though, can you give me a source for this shortened link, I would hate to bug you for another if I'm ever in need again. I explained the problem to the gent I bought the equipment from and he would like to get some spares so as to provide better service to his customers. He has sold a few of these models with box blades. Will keep you posted on how everything turns out. Thanks again ....
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| Jeff Earthwerks Unli
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-02-28 50277
If you tilt the scraper the opposite way so that the rear blade is off the ground by about 3/4" you can do amazing work, like smoothing topsoil, by driving in reverse. In reverse the scraper reacts much differently than when going forward. I made a hydraulic link that can instantly change its length by turning a valve that allows the fluid from one end of the cylinder to the other. This allows me to change the tilt going back and forth just by turning a valve---what a time saver. This is not powered by the hydraulics, however I have installed quick disconnects to make it a powered top link when needed. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-03-01 50289
Jeff: That sounds like a float for a box scraper and a pretty interesting idea. If I understand how it works, in float and sitting still, the box would tend to level itself on its (fixed?) cutters. Going either forward or reverse would cause the front or rear cutter to bite. The attack angle would increase as long as the cylinder remained in float. So, I guess you drive until there's a good attract angle and then release the float. Clever! I'd probably stick with my plain old hydraulic top-link--especially because I often end up with too much bite and want to reduce the attack on the fly.
The idea does sound like a great benefit for people who don't have rear outlets for a hydraulic top-link. I remember driving myself nuts using a scraper before I got my hydraulic top-link by constantly having to hop on and off the tractor to manually adjust the top-link. I was leveling a pad for a 10" x 40' construction trailer into a mild compound grade and the blade angle was critical to getting the job done.
I think my top-link is too long to roll the box up far enough to do the compacting in reverse that you describe. I do a bunch of it going forward though.
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| Jeff Earthwerks Unli
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-03-01 50314
The hydraulic top link typically doesn't float (meaning it goes in and out by itself)./ Rather the box scraper itself floats. The idea behind the hydraulic top link is to change the tilt only when stopped by "opening" the valve to allow in/out of the piston, then using the 3pt hitchraise lower to change tilt. Driving forward or reverse causes the desired leading edge of the front or back blade to dig in which chnages the tilt---almost like putting on the brakes on the scraper (if it had brakes) ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-03-02 50342
That's how I thought it would work. I did miss the idea that raising the 3ph while the box was in float would let the box roll down. That sounds like a way to change the scraper action from cut or drag to spread. It might even be possible to do it on the fly.
Sorry for the confusion about my use of the term 'float.' It's just that connecting the two sides of a double acting cylinder together is what a loader valve does to put the lift into float and I recognized that is what is done here.
The idea really does sound like a good alternative for people who don't have a rear outlet to power a top-link. A couple hoses and a valve on the fender should do it. Without a connection to a rear outlet to keep the cylinder charged, I guess it would be a closed system (more like automotive brakes than tractor hydraulics). The system would have to be charged and bled, and small reservoir of some sort might help. It might sound like a lot of trouble but I think that it would be a great improvement compared to manually adjusting a top-link for anything but the most basic scraper work.
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| Jeff Earthwerks Unli
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2003-03-02 50346
Actually, the system as it is now does not use a reservoir because the fluid goes from one end to the other so the volume doesn't change. Picture a hydraulic line (steel pipe and fittings) connecting one end to the other, then put a ball valve in between--that's all there is to it! A tee at the top and bottom allow for bleeding (fill one end, cap it and turn the other end over and do the same).
And yes, changing the tilt postion can be done on the fly once you get used to how the tilt works and what it can do. Without experience you can scalp MORE than you thought 'cause the the blade will submarine very easily going either direction. ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-03-02 50362
Petwas, I got five those links on an E-Bay close out deal. The guy that had them said they had been collecting dust for quite a while. I know of no other sources.
An alternative is to cut and weld a longer link. I have had to do that too and it cost about $50 for the welding. ....
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| petwas
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 3 upstate South Carolina
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2003-03-03 50399
Mark,
Once again thanks, I'm very pleased with that link. I hooked it up yesterday and it worked fine. It is true what Tom says, it does require some adjustment, but I can reached it from the seat with a little contortion. In the future I guess I'll pursue the hydraulic top link setup, that sounds like it would be a lot easier to operate. I've gotta scrape a spot for a pad that will hold a 16'x 80' trailer down at Lake Greenwood today since it's going to be sunny and in the high 50's. If it's too muddy I guess I'll just have to fish, the crappy are starting their spring fling. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-03-03 50403
Yep, leveling a pad for a 10' x 40' construction trailer at our camp was the first serious use of my scraper. That was when I drove myself nuts with the top-link adjustments.
I might have gotten carried away with the idea, but the site was on a mild compound grade. I reasoned that I wanted to build up the pad slightly above ground level with gravel for better drainage and that I should start out with a level site an average 6" or so below ground. So I was cutting/dragging and spreading in two dimensions. Sure did make a lot of passes leveling that pad. Since maneuvering room was a bit restricted, I alternated passes dozing backwards and scraping forwards so I wouldn't have to turn around. Each pass took a top-link adjustment. But I got to say that I probably could have cut the passes in half had I taken a little more practice using the scraper.
I got my forklift, which is where my hydraulic top-link came from, before we were ready for the gravel and spreading the gravel was much easier using the hydraulic link. Of course, I did have more practice by that time.
My only comment about the pad is that I didn't get the leveled pad quite deep enough. The gravel is high enough above ground level on one corner that it isn't quite self-supporting. I think a retaining wall about 6" high around that corner should do the trick. Since then I discovered water levels and they would have made the leveling easier, although most people would use a laser level today. Hope your project goes well. I had a good time doing mine despite the top-link adjustments.
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