Go Bottomplows
 | Ken Mark
Join Date: Posts: 1 
|
2000-11-25 21792
I am thinking of buying a plow. Will my 2710 handle a two bottom plow, or should I get a one bottom plow? The soil has been tilled before.
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962 
|
2000-11-25 21797
Ken, it will depend on the texture or type of soil you have, what size plows you get, etc., but I'd say the simple answer to your question is that you only want a single bottom plow. I have a black clay loam and there's no way my B2710 could pull a two bottom plow through it. I have about a 9000 square foot garden area that I've been tilling, but this Fall I turned it with the turning plow to get deeper before tilling it again, and while that went pretty well, I'd still occasionally have to raise that 14" moldboard a little to prevent bogging down and spinning the wheels. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York 
 Pics
|
2000-11-25 21799
I would go with a one bottom plow. Two reasons, for sure under any condition it will pull it. Two is it's cheaper. Do you already have a tiller? That is a must for gardening. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Ken Mark
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2000-11-25 21800
Thanks for the input. No, I do not have a tiller, just getting started, and only have a disc harrow now. Do you use some sort of cultivator, etc, for the weeds? ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Ken Mark
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2000-11-25 21802
Thanks, I believe my soil is similar to yours. How do you control the weeds in a garden that large? ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
Pics
|
2000-11-25 21803
Ken planning a garden and the use of a tractor takes planning. The tractor for row crops needs more spacing within the rows to fit the tractor thru. Normally for that I recommend a walk behind rear tine tiller with forward and reverse tine mode. The hand tiller would be used for cultivating unless size is not critical. The disc harrow in my area won't cut enough to do any type of a suitable job. A machiine that might also help you is a small tiller like the Mantis which I use for my mechanical weeder. It's light and extremely portable and does a great job. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962
|
2000-11-25 21816
Ken, I live far enough south that we don't have a whole lot of really cold weather, so every time it rains, even in the winter, as soon as it's dry enough, I run over the garden with the tiller again. I started out with a walk behind tiller also for cultivating and weed control between the rows, but quickly decided that was too much like work, so I sold the walk behind. Until this year I was working the garden with a B7100, planted the rows 5' apart and could still drive down between the rows with the tractor and 40" tiller. But this past year, after getting the wider B2710, I planted my rows 4' apart, and cultivated with a 6 point cultivator plow (6" field sweeps) by straddling the rows with the tractor until the plants got too big to do that. I do very little work with a hoe; don't like that kind of work at all, and I've used no commercial fertilizer, herbicides, or insecticides on my garden; just keep the soil worked enough to eliminate any grass or weeds. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| DanaT
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 138 Clay Center,Ks
|
2000-11-26 21836
I don't know the hp of a 2710, but my 855 is 24hp and it puuls a 1-14 graet in mellow ground, how ever when I get into brome grass & gumbo it's aload for it but it does pull it with out slipping. Like art posted, better small than big for ground engageing equipment ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Frank R Taylor
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2000-11-26 21838
Ihave a B2400 (24hp) and I'm going to be extending my garden over the winter and spring. My Christmas present to me this year will be a 48"/50" tiller (the wife doesn't know yet) but I'd like to know if it would be better to try to plow the ground before tilling or go straight to the tiller. The ground itself isn't too heavy but there is a 3" thick hardpan layer about 6" below the surface which breaks up into rocks when I use the walk behind tiller and makes it pretty hard work. Any help or advice would be appreciated before I start. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962
|
2000-11-26 21840
Dana, the B2710 is 27 hp; not a lot more than your John Deere.
Frank, I've done a lot of garden preparation both ways. The first couple of years, I just used the tiller, and made multiple passes until it got deep enough, but I've found it works much better and faster to tear up the ground first, then use the tiller. I prefer my little "turning plow" or "moldboard" although the double buster works pretty well, too, and I've read some discussions by others who simply use the "scarifiers" or "ripper teeth" on their box blades. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| CaseyR
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 53 Columbia River Gorge, Oregon
|
2000-11-29 21949
I was raised on a small farm years ago but haven't been around one much since. I recently bought 5 acres that haven't been touched for many years. Many old grape vines - lots of seeds and skin but little flavor - and lots of blackberries.
In the days before tillers were common, I think the sequence was: plow, disk, and harrow. With the tiller, is the disk superfluous?
Anyone have any good ideas for getting rid of the blackberries and allowing me to immediately replant (i.e. not soaking the area with herbicides)? I figured I would "doze" it out with my loader, till it a few times, and then hope that I could pull up the blackberry shoots before they got too rooted again, but I am afraid that the tilling will just make so many new blackberry starts that I won't stand a chance... ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962
|
2000-11-29 21955
Casey, what are you going to plant after you plow up the blackberries? I'm not sure how you get rid of them, but I have a patch about 4' wide and 50' long that I want to be there for the berries. However, they do tend to spread and I just keep the ones I don't want mowed down. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| CaseyR
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 53 Columbia River Gorge, Oregon
|
2000-12-01 22047
Bird - thanks for the replay. I sent a response yesterday, but it appears that my message did "take".
I have about an acre of blackberries where I would like to put a couple of more fruit trees, some grape vines, and a general vegetable garden. The vegetable garden will probably present the most difficulty in keeping down the blackberries. The current blackberries are mostly seeds and don't have the best flavor. I will probably plant a few Marion berries and perhaps a better type of blackberry.
I will say that the blackberries do serve one purpose and that is keeping the deer away from whatever is surrounded by the blackberries. I planted a couple of cherry trees in an area now surrounded by blackberries and the deer haven't touched them. They certain do a number on the fruit trees that they can reach and I have had to put fencing around all of the other trees. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photoplows
| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962
|
2000-12-02 22055
Casey, I didn't know until a few years ago that there are so many varieties of blackberries. I have a list of at least 15 varieties. Our area has lots of the wild "dewberries" that most folks call blackberries, but the ones I take care of on my property produce berries that are 3 to 4 times as big, and much juicier than the wild ones (although I don't know the name of the variety I have). According to Texas A&M, blackberries have relatively shallow roots, so if you plow deep and/or keep them mowed down, they'll die out. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo
Go Top
Share This