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Radiator Fluid Under Tractor

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RockyTop1
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2001-12-23          34004

Yesterday I notice a small amount of green fluid (radiator fluid?) under my TC33D tractor.
The tractor hasn't been used in a month. There were no known problems with leaking
fluid before this. The tractor has been in a secure garage (nonheated) since its last use
in November. What is this?


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jd110_1963
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 87 westminster, md
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2001-12-23          34006

Sometimes in cold weather, the rubber hoses contract enough to make the hose clamps loose, allowing coolant to leak out. If you cannot actually see where the fluid is coming from, I would tighten all hose clamps and see if that cures the problem. Another possibility would be a leaking water pump seal, radiator or gasket. If you can't pinpoint the leak, have the cooling system pressure tested. Kenny ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2001-12-24          34011

Yes, tighten the clamps and inspect the hoses. I'd also note where the leak was in relation to where the tractor was parked to help locate the leak, and maybe watch for drips after using the tractor. The pressure in many systems increases when an engine is shut down so that's a good time to look for leaks. If the leak is coming from an over-flow hose, there's a chance the rad cap is bad.

I used to use liquid laundry bluing to find cooling system leaks. However, I don't know if bluing is still available or how it would be with modern coolants.

I think some automotive rads don't use soldered-in tubes. These rads may leak a bit when sitting around during very cold weather. For such a rad, it's probably easier to top up the coolant than to replace the rad.
....

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cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000
Posts: 1307 The South Shore of Lake Ontario, New York
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2001-12-24          34015

I recall some kind of a bypass valve on the frame on the right side towards the front of the tractor. I believe there was a discharge port on it as well (don't have the tc here to check for you). May want to look at that, I recall N/H having problems with some of those but it I don't recall exactly what it was. Take a look at the database on this site and you can problably find it. Then again, it may just be a loose clamp as mentioned. ....

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Mrwurm
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 184 South East Michigan
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2001-12-25          34034

I agree with cutter. My neighbor has a New Holland and he has replaced a leaky discharge port twice under warranty. He now keeps a spare on hand. ....

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RockyTop1
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2002-01-02          34207

I finally figured out that the leak is coming from a pipe fitting
screwed into the engine block. This is on the right side of
the tractor and has a small (1/4 inch ?) hose clamped to it. The
hose appears to run to a drain valve at the bottom of the tractor and
then to the bottom of the radiator. The tractor is still under warranty.
Should I call the dealer up and have him fix it or just tighten the
fitting myself?

....

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Mrwurm
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 184 South East Michigan
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2002-01-02          34209

Sounds like a good excuse to go down to the dealer and play with all the new tractors. Your dealer is probably lonely this time of year anyway. Sounds like the same part my neighbor keeps replacing on his 1920. Problem with doing it yourself is if you break it, you'll lose all your coolant while you race to the dealer for a new one. (if its the port)
....

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Millstone
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 17 Henderson, KY
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2002-01-02          34211

My TC 33 D was leaking antifreeze from the same port in the right side of the block. I snugged it with a wrench and it quit leaking. It will be project to remove and reseal as it is very dificult to get a wrench on. Looks like a special socket with one side cut away is needed to do it right. ....

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Mrwurm
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 184 South East Michigan
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2002-01-03          34216

I know what you are talking about Millstone. Our local NH dealer does not have the special tool to tighten or replace the port or valve. My neighbor did some cutiing and grinding to a socket and made his own. His port has been replaced twice. It's 18 degrees here in Michigan. Too cold for anything but yapping about tractors.
....

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Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999
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2002-01-03          34217

Mrwurm, 18 degrees in Michigan? I wish you'd kept that cold weather up there instead of sending it down here. It's 13 in the middle of Texas this morning.LOL ....

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Mrwurm
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 184 South East Michigan
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2002-01-03          34223

Bird, my mighty John Deere snow plow stands, silent and ready. I hope this comforts you. Uh oh, maybe I've been indoors too long.

....

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RockyTop1
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2002-01-07          34351

Looks like I got the same problem as Millstone. I tried a 1 "
crows foot wrench with a socket attachment. 1" is too small.
Will try a 1 1/16" crows foot wrench next. Had to order it.
Will be here probably Thursday. I can't get any kind of normal
socket or wrench on it. The spigot prevents putting a socket on it.
Then fuel filter is directly in front of it. ....

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Millstone
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 17 Henderson, KY
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2002-01-07          34352

Will to try to repair this weekend with brass fittings. Even though a bushing, adapter,and a barbed fitting will be required, this should be a permanent repair. The existing is a bit mickey mouse in that it cannot be easily reached and the indexing for the hose tap will not allow proper torque of the fitting. Should not be a big deal unless the block is metric or it has some other odd ball threads. If this works out, standard sockets and wrenches along with teflon tape will end this crap forever. Watch that coolant with all pets. They love it and it is deadly. ....

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RockyTop1
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2002-01-08          34367

I bought about 4 feet of new hose so that I can't put that spigot at any
angle. I intend to remove that fitting and cover it with a good coating
of teflon tape. I don't intend to fix this problem again.

....

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Millstone
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 17 Henderson, KY
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2002-01-12          34479

Its Fixed!!!! I used a 1-1/16 inch crowfoot wrench to remove the old fitting. If the old fitting is tightened to stop the leak the fitting is behing the old filter. That is why these things leak, they cannot be tightened properly. Also, my tractor is six months old and the existing fitting was starting to corrode on the inside. I installed a brass 3/4 inch reducer in the block with a 90 degree 5/16 inch brass hose barb fitting in the reducer. Used teflon tape and it don't leak. Should never have to deal with this again. It took about twenty minutes including removing and replacing the antifreeze. I did not have to remove the oil or fuel filter. It might of been a bit quicker if the loader was removed. ....

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RockyTop1
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2002-01-12          34482

I got my crows foot wrenches yesterday. I got the old fitting off with
the 1 1/16" crows foot wrench. Broke the fitting while getting it off. The dealer is sending me a new one. I considered putting brass pipe
fittings in when I noticed that the thing looked like standard
pipe threads. I just wanted to stick to the original parts in case I have a warranty issue. The tractor was purchased in July 2001.
If it leaks again after the warranty is up, I will do it just like Millstone. ....

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RockyTop!
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2002-02-06          35354

Got the new fitting from the dealer and put it on last week. I put
a good wrapping of Teflon tape on it. I considered doing it with
brass fittings. Couldn't find a 5/16" hose barb 90 degree fitting
at the local hardware store. If you come straight out the fuel filter is
in the way. I need to crank the tractor up to test it. However, it's below
40 degrees and I have summer diesel in the tractor. ....

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Old Forge
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2002-02-07          35379

Had the same problem with my TC45D, and it is under warrenty. The dealer gave me a new fitting and had no tools to install it. I save myself the head ache by removing hte hose connections at the drain valve and installing SS screws in the end of the hose and clamped the hose the the screws. Nothing leaks now and the tractor runs in the correct temperature range. I just did not want to try to get that fitting out with the wrong tools...too much shit in the way! ....

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treeman
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 251 Wisconsin
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2002-02-20          35749

I bought a new TC33D 2 mo. ago and it has the leak around the fitting. I took a 1 1/16 socket and milled a slot up the side to clear the hose barb and removed the fitting. I found that if I remove the bolt that holds the fuel filter assy to its bracket, it can be swung up out of the way. The fitting is cast from zinc. That is a poor choice because zinc has a tendency to corrode when in contact with iron. I picked up all brass fittings and installed them. ....

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RockyTop1
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2002-02-20          35756

You must have some neat equipment if you can mill a slot
up the side of a socket. I put a new original part back on with a good bit
of teflon tape (I broke the old one getting it off). I was thinking that they simply didn't put enough pipe dope on it. I suppose any dissimilar metals when in contact will corrode -- brass/iron, etc. Which will corrode worse? I don't know. If the brass is resistant will the iron in the engine block corrode faster? Certainly would be a pain to retap the threads in the engine block. Not an expert on this. ....

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treeman
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2002-02-21          35767

Yes, it is nice to have access to a machine shop. It's wonderful what a solid carbide end mill can do to a socket. No, brass and iron do not react together as aluminum and zinc do. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-02-21          35770

Yes, machine tools are handy. I imagine that the repair procedure described in a manual probably refers to a special tool. The tool likely is a socket with a slot cut into it and available at a premium price.

Someday I'll play around with my father-in-law's old South Bend lathe and probably make something useful that would be nightmare trying to find elsewhere. It's tempting to make a hydraulic gauge adapter fitting I mentioned a couple of days ago. I suspect I'd end up doing more searching trying to find the right gears and cutters for cutting the threads. In my case, a little access to machine tools is probably worse than no access.
....

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RHumphreys
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2002-03-20          36539

Treeman,

Brass and iron do react but not at the same rate that zinc and iron do. Both the brass and zinc will become anodic with repect to the iron and corrode. Basic electrochemical reaction for metals at different levels in the galvanic series. The best solution to the corrosion problem is electrical isolation and that is exactly what RockyTop did with the stock fitting and teflon tape. By the way this fitting is much easier to access on my TC40D. Wonder why? Maybe the four cyl vs the 3 cyl ....

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RockyTop1
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2002-03-23          36659

Yeah. The teflon tape/new original fitting seems to be working so far.
I think maybe they didn't put enough pipe dope on it at the factory.
When it got cold, it leaked.
....

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TomG
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Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-03-24          36673

It's good the tape worked, and there's a good chance it will hold up. I don't recall needing dope or tape to seal brass cooling system fittings in the past. At least the effect of tapered pipe threads and the relatively soft brass threads seemed to seal OK on their own. I'm assuming the fitting used pipe threads. Sloppy manufacturing tolerances is another possible explanation.

Of course, its all an idle issue provided the fitting works now. I wanted to note that Teflon tape is good, but it does require some caution when used on hydraulic fittings. If a fitting is over-wrapped, then tape extends into the hydraulic line and is exposed to oil flow. Tape can break off inside the line and cause obstructions. Liquid sealer is available, but it too should be applied to only the upper half or less of the male fittings.
....

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