Go BottomHelp 7510 or 7800
 | snmhanson
Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 27 White Salmon, WA 
|
2004-03-31 81704
I picked up a B7510 yesterday to try out and got to move some dirt and rocks with it yesterday. Nice tractor but I can see where getting a little more would be nice. I need to return the trailer to the dealer today either with or without the tractor. He also has a 2003 B7800 on the lot which I havn't gotten a quote on yet but I'm guessing he would let it go for ~$17,000 with FEL and mmm. The 7510 is costing ~$14,000 with the same stuff but has about ten hours on it. Miraculously my wife told me to get whatever I think we NEED.
My question is, will the 7510 be able to do everything the 7800 can do or not? I realize it would take longer with the 7510 but time is not my main priority, however, it is always an issue. On the other hand, my wife won't be too happy if I spend an extra $3000 and don't get any advantage except getting things done a little quicker. I will use the tractor for moving A LOT of material (Mainly dirt), grading and leveling, removing snow with a back blade, mowing 1 1/2 acres, maybe some post holes and a few other miscellanous things I can't think of right now. I need to leave in a couple hours to get the trailer back to the dealer so I hope someone can give me some guidance before I go. HELP!
Matt
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| snmhanson
Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 27 White Salmon, WA
|
2004-03-31 81705
I forgot to ask above, how well will the 7800 mow compared to the 7510 and how well will they mow compared to a regular rider mower. And although I said time wasn't my main concern on getting things done, how much would the 7800 speed things up in general? Thanks a lot.
Matt ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada 
 Pics
|
2004-03-31 81708
If after just a brief try-out you are thinking bigger is better... then maybe you should go for it.
BUT.....If you are doing a fair amount of grading you probably will not like the non-position control, three point hitch on the B7800 and the B7500.
Maybe a 2410 or a 2710 (comes with position control) and a top and tilt kit would be a happy compromise. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
 | beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan 
Pics
|
2004-03-31 81711
I have to agree about the position control on the 3-point. I would trade 3hp for the position control in a hurry. The B7800 has the 1/4" valve which is nice to have, but is no replacement for position control if you are doing grading work. The B2710 is the same frame size as the 7800, but has position control, a rear hydraulic block, and some other creature features that were taken off the 7800, and the other B7xxx tractors to market a cost competitive tractor.
As far as size, I mow with mine and it is fine. The longer you are in the seat, the smaller the tractor gets. I use a rear finish mower instead of the belly mower. I find it a lot more convenient.
I went to pick up a B2410 I had ordered. It was the wife at the dealer the day of pick-up that saw the 7800 and said for the $'s, I should move up. I am not sorry, I love the machine, but the rear 3-point control is a compromise. Good luck, the 2710 could be the compromise you are looking for. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
 | itsgottobegreen
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 329 Mt. Airy, MD
Pics
|
2004-03-31 81715
I do grading with my B7500 and its up or down on the 3pt. It will drive you nuts. I am really looking at trading this one in or getting the parts on the new B7500 narrow. Its had position control. I figure it wouldn't be to hard to convert over, but the parts are going to kill me. If you don't mine a headace get the B7800. If you want it easy get the B2710. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan
Pics
|
2004-03-31 81730
Hey green, not to get in the middle of this thread, but before you spend the $'s on the position control parts ( I priced them ), I built a position indicator for my 7800 that reads out the elevation of the 3-point in front of you. It has helped a lot. If interested to find out about it, let me know.
Back on subject, look seriously at the position control on the 3-point. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| itsgottobegreen
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 329 Mt. Airy, MD
Pics
|
2004-03-31 81745
send me some pics through my email at rookieff_MAVFC at hotmail.com I was going to do something similar if the parts was to much. Haven't priced them yet. I saw a narrow B7510 at a dealer, i might buy it change it over and sell it on ebay. thanks ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
Pics
|
2004-03-31 81752
The 7800 offers a three range transmission that you would enjoy the middle range on for the movement of dirt as it gives you more workable speed. Unless yu got the 72" deck it is a little less manuverable in tight quarters when comparing the two. The 1/4 inching valve takes the patitence to learn as the position control takes to feel comfortable with so it depends on you and where you are at. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| snmhanson
Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 27 White Salmon, WA
|
2004-03-31 81759
Thanks for all of your replies. Although it seems that I may be happier in the immediate future with the 7800 I think I am going to stick with the 7510 that I am demoing right now and save $3500. After using it a little more I think that it will do what I need it to do, I just need to climb up the learning curve and maybe get a little more aggressive with it. I haven't tried any rear implements with it but the only thing I am really concerned about is being able to do some sort of tilling or turning of dirt. If it can't handle that I will rent something or hire it out - our local high school FFA will do it for CHEAP as long as there are not too many rocks to damage their equipment. I think the 7510 will be better for me once all of the tough work is done when it will mainly be used for mowing the lawn, moving snow a few time a year and other miscellaneous jobs around the house. I think the 7800 would be overkill in the end. I didn't sign any papers for the 7510 yet but unless someone tells me I'm making a huge mistake I will do it this weekend. Thanks again for all of your help.
Matt ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
 | grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine 
Pics
|
2004-04-01 81764
Matt
One thing you can take comfort in, is the fact that your
buying a machine that will hold its value if you decide
to swap.
I think the 7510 will do what you want, I just put a 60"
MMM on mine, and the rear blower worked great this winter.
Loader has been able to do what I want. It will pick up
more than enough to get you in trouble. Be Safe, Good luck!! ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
Pics
|
2004-04-01 81783
Put about $1000 of that savings into a top n' tilt kit and you won't be sorry. Also.... life will be easier if your rear blade has skid shoes for the snow removal work.
Now lets talk tires. What's on the menu? ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| snmhanson
Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 27 White Salmon, WA
|
2004-04-01 81791
Thanks for the words of encouragement, it makes me feel better about my decision. As far as tires go, I'm ultimately going to get Kubota's Turf-Bar tires. Haven't seen them yet but I guess they're essentially turf tires with a few small bars on them. From what I understand they give turfs just a little extra bite for doing things beside mowing. If any one has any information or opinions on them let me know. He ordered them and they will be in in a few weeks. The nice thing is until they get here he is letting me use the industrials that are on it now. Very nice while I'm doing the stuff that needs more traction.
Now my next step is getting implements. So far I only have a fork to go on the back that the dealer threw in with the tractor. I think I am definately getting a box blade as that seems to be the preferred grading tool and maybe a rear blade for snow removal but not sure of what else. I was thinking of a sub-soiler and a post hole digger but not sure how much I would use them. I'd like a tiller but don't really want to spend that much and I don't know how well it would work on our soil anyway. Any opinions on which implements I should get for getting our property landscaped (or for other uses as well)? I am starting from compacted, hard and kind of rocky soil. I want to end up with a perfectly smooth, green and manicured lawn. :)
Also, this is my first tractor and I don't have any other tractor experience so I'm wondering, how hard can I push it? I assume spinning the tires some is pretty normal when using the loader or other implements but I don't really know at what point you're abusing the tractor rather than pushing it to it's limit. Will the tractor just refuse to do work that is too tough for it or can I easily over stress it? Should I do FEL work in high or low gear or does it matter? What about when I get a box blade, do I just keep pulling until it can't pull anymore or do I need to get a feel for when I am pushing too hard? And also the break in period. The manual says the first 50 hours are the break in period and to not run the tractor at full speed, keep the speed down over bumpy conditions, not do excessive work, etc... How gentle do I need to be? To be effective with the FEL I find that I need to run the throttle at least at 2000 RPM and closer to 2500 really helps. I try to be careful over bumpy groung but our entire yard has small bumps all over the place so it's pretty unavoidable. Should I just go drive the tractor back and forth on our gravel road for the next forty hours or what? What does it mean by avoid excessive work? blah, blah, blah...
Well, I'll stop going on now. Sorry for all the question but TractorPoint has been such a great place to get unbiased opinions (when taken as a whole) and it seems like you all enjoy helping other tractor owners out. Feel free to add any information that would be helpful to me. I'm going to go read the manual more carefully now and probably answer alot of the questions I just asked.
Thanks,
Matt ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| kubotaguy
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 360 Shepherdstown, WV
|
2004-04-01 81794
I was in the same boat as you as far as the 7500 or the 7800. I went with the 7800 for a couple of reasons. The first and most important was the dump height of the bucket. The other reasons were more power, heavier machine and ground clearance.
As far as the position control, it took a little getting used to but the 1/4 inching valve has worked nicely for me when grading and it also is nice when digging with the box blade and you begin to loose traction, you just bump it up a notch and keep it going.
Both are very nice machines. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan
Pics
|
2004-04-01 81801
Check out the performance curve on the engine. You will generally be above the maximum torque output at 2000 rpms. You know at this point that the engine is running very efficiently. You don't need to run over 2000 rpms for much of anything except to run implements that need rpm's, such as a mower deck. Horsepower ratings are for power, which is the "rate" at which work is done. As long as you aren't in a big hurry, run the machine according to the performace curve for most tasks. For sure, you don't want to max the rpms during the breakin period. Give those parts some time to get used to each other.
The 50 hour break-in period may give you enough time to get good at the 1/4" valve control. Maybe that's why I have trouble with it, I only have 20 hrs on my 7800. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine
Pics
|
2004-04-01 81809
Matt
I think a good rule of thumb is a spinning tire is useless.
Of course you are going to spin, but a tire that is biting
is more effective. As far as the loader goes, lift it as you
enter your material and that will put some weight on the front tires to help provide traction,back off the throttle
if your rears continue to spin.This will also keep your work area from getting
all rutted up and rough to drive on, thus increasing your production.
I have screened and loaded hundreds of thousand of yards and
never broke anything with this method taught by an old timer
who had done millions of yards.
Work Safe! ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| c5er
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 25 Milwaukee
|
2004-04-01 81836
Beagle,
I would be interested in seeing what you came up with for the 3pt indicator. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan
Pics
|
2004-04-02 81851
I posted a response, but can't find it , so I'll try again. I have two designs for the indicator built and tested. One is for a MMM on the tractor, the other is without. Both work very well with good repeatability. The indicator displays the height of the 3-point arms in front of the operator for grading work.
I am working on a set of drawings for both designs. when finished I would be happy to share. Our digital camera took a poop, or I would post pictures.
The indicator is perfect for working with the 1/4" valve on the B7xxx tractors. I can put my blade at the same height every time without turning around. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| itsgottobegreen
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 329 Mt. Airy, MD
Pics
|
2004-04-02 81883
Beagle let me know. My neck is really starting to hurt. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan
Pics
|
2004-04-02 81906
Sure. Have some honey-do's to get out of the way, then back to the drawing board. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| snmhanson
Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 27 White Salmon, WA
|
2004-04-09 82544
Well, maybe I should change my user name to indecisive. After not using the tractor over the past weekend I called my dealer on Monday and asked if it was too late to move up to the 7800. He was happy to oblige but said it would take a few days to set up the loader and that he wanted to load the rear tires for me. So today I returned the 7510 and picked up a new 7800. I can say without reserve that I'm glad I made this choice. Even running low RPMs the 7800 just blows away the 7510. I've only had a chance to put an hour on it before my kid woke up from his nap but what a productive hour it was. Can't wait till this weekend when I will have time to really do some damage. Thanks for all of your input, I really listened to all of it. I would have looked at the B2710 for the reasons mentioned but my dealer didn't have any of the premium models in stock, all he had in the B Series was the 7510 and the 7800 (and a 7610 but it was already spoken for). I had an immediate need for a tractor and wanted to shop locally so those were my only choices. Hopefully I will get a box blade soon and be able to see how the 3 pt control works. Having never used a position control on a 3pt hitch before maybe I won't know what I'm missing.
Thanks again for all of your help.
Matt ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| egbloch
Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 7 Gig Harbor, WA
|
2004-04-09 82575
Matt, I'll put in my two cents worth. All this talk about the B7800 is making me even more anxious to get mine. Probably this weekend but having to wait on the MMM. I decided on the 7800 after all. I considered moving up to the L3130. With nothing to really base my opinion on except the good words on this forum, soon I'll be the proud owner of a B7800. Life is good! Happy tractoring to all.
....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| ima11387
Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 1 chardon ohio
|
2004-04-20 83747
We're jumpin' in at this time, as we 've been tractor shopping the last couple of days. We're in the process of relocating to the peach state(soon?)& will have an opportunity to have 8 - 10 acres to mow (pasture) as well as moving horse manure (where?), and dragging the riding ring. We stopped at the tractor dealers locally, & came away thinking we will need approximately a 25 HP tractor. The models were (K) - 7510 & (CC) 7254. We thought about them overnight & decided that we actually need a 30 HP model - 7800 (K) or 7530 (CC). Any & all opinions will be most welcome.
....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| Oliver
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 210 Massachusetts
|
2004-04-23 84060
I've been following this closely as this is almost the exact position I am in. Originaly I was looking at the JD 4210 or 4310; bottom line is that I just cannot justify the price, and really like the Kubota (green paint is purely sentimental). Anyway, I am leaning very heavily toward the 7510 as it is about $3000 cheaper than the 7800. If I am using the tractor to brush hog 5 acres twice a year (pretty much tall grass and prickers), grade and remove snow from a 350 foot diveway (snow removal with a back blade and FEL, at least initially), PHD to install many, many fence posts, and once the barn and paddocks are finished, general use moving manure, shavings, sawdust, etc. in the care of 2, maybe 3, horses. I will also be mowing with a 60" 3PH deck (might go with the MMM but the property is very open and the ability to do loader work without the deck is very appealing).
Bottom line is that George at Salem Farm Supply in NY is really the only dealer I spoke with who was not trying to get me to buy a bigger machine -- he thinks the 7510 will suit my needs. I often hear, though, to buy a bigger machine than you think you need.
I will be using the machine to help landscape a new house -- putting in a lawn, finish grading the driveway, and who knows what else. Once the house is done, I will be using it to mow, for the horses, snow, and all those other uses that I don't even know exists yet!
So, what do people think -- bite the bullet on the 7800 ($15,500 with FEL) or go with the 7510 ($12,700 with FEL) and save the difference for implements down the road?
I've been putting off putting down a deposit, but need to do so soon if I am going to take delivery before the end of school (I am an administrator in an independent school which leaves me with a smallish salary, but time to do projects)
Thanks again -- I have gained a tremendous amount of knowledge from reading posts regularly. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
Pics
|
2004-04-23 84062
The only issue I see here is PTO power and it only relates to the brush hog functions.
If you can live with a 48" brush hog and the attendant time constraints cutting a 4 foot swath instead of a 5 foot swath, then the 7510 is your best buy. It will certainly handle all the rest of your needs without strain or hassle. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| kubotaguy
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 360 Shepherdstown, WV
|
2004-04-23 84066
As a proud owner of the 7800, I can tell you that I am glad I went with it over the 7500. I have put over 60 hrs. on mine since November and I have moved a tremendous amount of topsoil with it as well as stone. The 7800 has very nice ground clearance and the mmm will fasten high out of the way and it only takes about 5 minutes to take off the 60" mmm provided you have the FEL. It has two pins in the back and a lever in the front and the collar PTO shaft. I was very surprised at the cut of the mmm especially with my rear R-4's loaded. A portion of my yard stays quite soft in the spring and the loaded R-4's actually did less damage than the turfs on my old 7200 (I guess because with the hydro I could control wheel spin in the muddy areas better). I love the 3 range hydro as med. range is just about perfect for loader work and mowing, but yet high range is there to get you around faster and low range is there for that extra pulling power. I was also surprised at how easy the FEL comes off and how nimble the tractor was mowing without the FEL. When I did mow with the FEL, it still provided a very nice cut but just wasn't as nimble.
Good luck and no Kubota didn't pay me for this!!!! I'm curious as to what RPM's the rest of the 7800 owners mow at. I'm using about 2100 rpms and it cuts fine.
And remember the most important part of the deal before signing the papers on your new machine is the hats!!! And don't forget to get Chief a hat too!!! ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan
Pics
|
2004-04-23 84068
I'm with the 'guy on this one. The more I use my 7800, the more I like it. He said it all.
I mow at about 2000 to 2200 rpms. Seems to be plenty of blade speed for a good cut, even with the RFM. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| Oliver
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 210 Massachusetts
|
2004-04-23 84069
Thanks for the input, I think. I say I think because you are making me lean toward the 7800 -- for an extra 3 grand! My bottom line is that I want to spend as little as possible on a machine that will last for many, many years - and do eveything I need to do now and in the future.
My concern about the 7510, which no one has addressed, is the ability to move snow. Some years we get lots of it here in Western Massachusetts; other years very little. The 7510 is significantly lighter than the 7800 - will this weight difference hamper my ability to move snow? Moreover, will I be putting enough strain on the machine that I shorten its life? Initially I will try and clear the driveway with a backblade and FEL. Down the road I might go to a quick attach front blade. Unless I see a real good deal on a used blower, I don't see the justification for the thousands one costs (Even at $50 a plow, which is way high, that is a number of years of paying someone else to clear the drive before a blower pays for itself) ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
Pics
|
2004-04-23 84072
Both machines are design engineered to move dirt, so handling snow with be even less strain, as the materials are lighter.
With the jobs you have outlined either machine will last many years.
BTW, adding 300 pounds of barbell weights the the 7510's rear wheels during the winter will just about equal the weight of the 7800 and it will concentrate the weight where it will do the most good. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| Oliver
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 210 Massachusetts
|
2004-04-23 84073
Thanks for the input - I am going to call around and check prices on the 7510. I really like Salem Farm Supply; their price is $12,700 for 7510 HST with 302 FEL and loaded R4's. I looked on the B-series price link someone posted earlei and this is a little higher than what they say is a good price. In addition to working at the school I own an outdoor gear and clothing store, so I fully understand the value of paying a little more for excellent service, and I have heard nothing but good things about Salem. That said, I got feedback from Art a while back that this is a good price -- anyone else out there have a price I can compare to? ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| kubotaguy
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 360 Shepherdstown, WV
|
2004-04-23 84092
I'm sorry Oliver, I wasn't trying to push the 7800 on you but it was just my experience. I'm sure the 7510 will work well for you, but I would test drive both of them and the 3 speed range as opposed to the 2 speed range may make a difference. I had a 7200 (with no FEL) before the 7800 and moving snow with the rear blade was a nightmare. I used chains on the rear turfs and I just dug up the driveway. With the 7800 I could push the whole length of my drive (200' give or take) with 12 inches of snow on the ground. The 7510 will probably take longer to move the snow but it should be fine with the FEL. Besides if you plow your driveway too fast you will be looking to plow somewhere else to get in plenty of seat time. Just make sure to check out all aspects of the tractor before settling on one. For example if you will be loading a vehicle of any sort (trailer, pickup, small dump truck) make sure the dump height on the tractor is high enough. Also make sure your storage area can handle the size of machine you choose (one reason I went with 60" mmm instead of 72"). Just remember to take your time and enjoy the work and don't abuse the machine and it will take care of you for a very long time. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine
Pics
|
2004-04-23 84096
Oliver
Are you removing snow from blacktop or gravel? You can get a puma rear pto blower for under $1500.00 54". They work great,7510 will handle all the snow you'll get. This will leave your bucket on year round for you other needs.
I don't think you will be happy with a rear blade in Mass.
I know you can get some good dumps of snow, a blower will save you going out in the middle of the night to open up the driveway. 7510 or 7800 I hope you are as happy as I am with Kubota's quality, you do get what you pay for.
enjoy!! ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| itsgottobegreen
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 329 Mt. Airy, MD
Pics
|
2004-04-23 84098
Grinder and i have the same set up, except i have a 51" New metro snow blower. I use mine commerically, on driveways that go straight in. A blade isn't good in MA, i used to live there, and a snowblower is the way to go. Right now i am in the process of building a loader mounted snowplow so i have a choice. Bucket, plow, or blower on one machine. So it would depend on the snow condition to use each machine.
Grinder did you get that cab, i am going to build one myself. Well maybe, I will just add it to the list of project starting on April 15(last day of college) Already includes, to much work for customers, finish snowplow, build 3 bay (brick) garage (to keep tractor and cars dry), finish the basement(needs sheetrock and paint), Restore two JD 110 garden tractor and 2 of 5 locke reel mowers. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| Oliver
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 210 Massachusetts
|
2004-04-24 84129
The 350' driveway is gravel -- and has a few turns in it. It is also on a hill (not too steep). I'm not sure how much I will like backing up and down the driveway, and I just cannot justify the expense of a front blower. And, horse manure will still need to be moved in the winter months, so I need that front bucket. I won't be living in the house for at least a year (but the horses will be in their barn soon) so I have some time to figure out the snow aspect of things.
Thanks for all the help; I am calling dealers now to find the best price on a 7510. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine
Pics
|
2004-04-24 84147
Backing up is not that bad,check out some of my pics,you could go with a quick connect blade on front.Mine is about 200' long with a 50x50 parking area. The rear blade is awful short for handling any amount of snow,especially on a 350 foot run.
paid 13000 last fall for my 7500,if thats any help. Have fun and work safely! ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoHelp 7510 or 7800
| grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine
Pics
|
2004-04-24 84152
Will
No I did not get that cab, I thought you bought it. I just
got the 60" mmm and a westendorf cool cap is next. and... and... and ... ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo
Go Top
Share This