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 | Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia 
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2006-03-08 125791
Since buying my my used Kubota 7100 HST, I haven't had much opportunity to use it. The previous owner didn't provide and an owner's manual, but she did show me what she knew about driving it including how to engage the belly mower. I remember most of it, but not the belly mower part. Could someone enlighten me regarding whatever controls it needs?
Also, I have a list of manuals I could buy. They're not cheap, and I'm wondering if the owners manual will have enough depth to be worth the money. I'm concerned with keeping it in proper order,sharpening the mower brades, etc. Any thoughts?
Thanks
__Mike
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 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York 
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2006-03-08 125795
The owners manual gives just about all a person needs to know unless major mechamical work is needed. The manuals are meant for a mechanic with some experience and for many people just an interesting book to look at although not for much use. ....
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 | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2006-03-08 125796
Mike, most manufacturers (of nearly anything) today will happily provide you with an owners manual free.
They would rather you get a free manual than get hurt.
Go to your local dealer or email Kubota's customer service dept. with the exact model, serial number wouldn't hurt either.
Best of luck. ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-08 125804
Art,
That sounds pretty good then. I do have *some* mechanical background, but I don't intend to rebuilt the engine, I want to be able to keep the thing in good operating order.
Thanks
Mike ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-08 125805
Murf,
>> They would rather you get a free manual than get hurt.
I like the sound of that! Hope you're right.
Thanks
_Mike ....
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 | kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2006-03-08 125809
Mike,
To me Kubota's manuals contain some very good info. The ones that came with my tractors were for the most part very simple to understand. ....
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 | WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England 
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2006-03-08 125822
Mike -
I don't know about any free copies perse, however, they (Kubota dealers) are very willing to sell you whatever you are in need of. I never got any free, however, always received what I was in search of.
- Willie H ....
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 | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2006-03-08 125829
See if you can get on here. ....
Link: Tractor Smart manuals
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125847
kthompson, ah... Ken, right?
The way you describe the Kubota manual sounds about right to me. Just the essentials.
Thanks
_Mike ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125848
Willie,
I'm in contact with an outfit who seems to have all the manuals on hand. Of course if I can get a free one, so much the better.
So far no one has mentioned how to engage the mower.
Thanks
_Mike ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125849
Chief,
I've found a source of manuals, in fact I think I learn about it here.
Thanks
_Mike ....
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| WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England
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2006-03-09 125855
Mike -
I am not sure as to what vintage 7100HST it is that you have, and depending whether or not you have a front pto drive or a mid pto drive.
The older units, including the gear drive units, utilized an add on gear box mounted to the nose of the tractor frame. This gear box was driven off the engine pulley assembly, with an output shaft (drive shaft) to the deck gear box. The engagement of this style mower, was thru a cable engagement located on the left side of the dash housing via a lever about one foot in length.
Simply by moving the lever forward or back would engage or disengage the mower deck drive.
The other, or newer design, which is still used today in design, does not use any nose driven pto. Rather, a mid mount pto shaft that is located on the forward side of the tranny housing, other wise known as a drop down box. This pto shaft connects forward to the deck gear box thru a driveshaft to spin the deck blades. The engagement of this pto drive, must be made with the clutch pedal.
To engage this drive, have the tractor running, lower the deck, depress the clutch pedal (located to the left side footboard). Once depressed, move the pto engagement lever located on the inside left rear fender to the desired rpm as indicated by Kubota. Once the lever has been moved, slowly release the clutch, and the mower will begin to be driven. This mower drive will stay active until one depresses the clutch again, and/or disengages the lever to "neutral" position again.
Two primary ways to tell the differences between the two decks, is that the older deck has an offset to the gear box, whereas the newer that is driven from the mid pto, is on center. The offset was so that the drive shaft was not in conflict with the drive train of the front wheel drive power shaft from the tranny.
The second, is very obvious...the gear box faces rearward on the newer style, vs. forward on the older.
I hope this helps you out.
- Willie H ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125864
Thanks Willie, you're clear and unmistakable description was exactly what I needed. I have that later type with mid and rear PTOs.
There's one point where I still have some doubt. The PTO engagement lever has a metal indicator strip with markings: Hi, low & neutral, but it also seems to offer a choice between mid and rear PTO. If that's what it's trying to tell me, I can't find a way to shift between them. I would think it might be a matter of pulling the lever to the side, but it doesn't want to move. As it is, the rear PTO turns all the time.
Shifting the thing is a tad difficult, sometime you have to engage the clutch a bit to spin the gears.
Thanks
__Mike ....
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| WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England
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2006-03-09 125865
Mike -
Straighten me out here...do you have a Gear shift unit (DT model) or a Hydrostatic unit (HST/HSD model)?
Your comment about shifting gears makes me wonder abit.
The lever operates on a pivot - nothing fancy about it. Behind the lever base, against the housing if you will, is a small steel ball, that travels to and fro the various detents of the speed positions. It was very common for these units , especially when they had not been used for a while, to rust up abit, causing the lever to seem as though it was seized. Spray a little WD40 on the assembly towards the detaent area and ball. If itis rusted in as I suspect, it will free up...trust me.(famous last words)
As far as the constant spinning is concerned, if the pto is engaged, it will be spinning - that is if your mid is engaged with the mmm, the rear shaft will be spinning and vice versa. In the manual, it should tell you if using the rear pto with a center driven implement, to disconnect the drive shaft before use. The same applies for the use of the mmm, when/if you have a driven implement on the 3pt - disconnect the drive shaft.
The high and low markers (on the left fender area)lever, refer to the speed settings for the pto output. The marker for mid and rear pto, if memory serves me, is not so much an indicator of something to switch settings with, rather identification that this lever serves the mid and rear pto engagement.
The speed settings on the DT model (if a three speed pto unit) were 514,876, and 1498rpm at 2800 engine rpm give or take. I had one that had 540,800, and 1200 on the tag - go figure. It was in the ball park and most implements operate in a range anyway.
Do tell what unit it is you have, whether a gear shift or hydrostatic drive. If you look to the left side of the clutch housing, you should see the serial number as well. This will identify exactly what unit you have, as well as date of manufacture.
- Willie H ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125867
This is a B7100 HST according to the engine cover decal.
* Two wheel drive
* Engine = D750 AH 3000rpm max
* Trans Case stamp = B7100HE10848
>> If you look to the left side of the clutch housing, you should see the serial number as well
>> The lever operates on a pivot - nothing fancy about it
>> ...
>> The marker for mid and rear pto ... identification that
>> this lever serves the mid and rear pto engagement.
That makes plenty of sense, there little indication that there should be side to side movement, and I'd expect more complexity if they had multi-axis movement in mind. Essentially, a shaft come out the left side of the transmission case, though a boss with a screwed on cover plate, the lever rotates this shaft through something close to 50 degrees. I don't see any visible hint of a detent mechanism, but there's detent in the feel of the lever. It doesn't feel bad.
>> ... if the pto is engaged, it will be spinning ...
I thought I'd seen it spinning in Neutral, but I just checked and that's not the case.
>> ...manual... should tell you ...
>> to disconnect the drive shaft...
Gotta get that manual.
>> Do tell what unit it is you have...
I should figure out a way to do a tagline. This forum doesn't seen to have that feature.
I see a red light on the dash, so I think I'd better do an oil change and filter before I do anything else with this machine.
You really been a great help. Thanks you very much.
_Mike ....
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| WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England
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2006-03-09 125871
Mike -
Thanks for the clarification - That is I took it for granted that you had a 4wd unit. (my bad)
As far as the serial number that you posted,B7100HE10848, my records indicate that that unit was/is a 1980 vintage tractor. Another way to check the vintage, is to see what type of rear hub assembly is on the tractor. If the locking bolt or "set" bolt (about 1/2 diameter) is in the center of the hub as it screws down towards the shaft, it is of older vintage. Conversely, if it is a long through bolt, that tightens against the outside hex wall as a clamp onto the shaft, it is of newer vintage (approx 1986 and newer), along with a 3/8 dowel pin and cotter as a located to the shaft position.
The detent really is not that substantial feeling perse, as there is a small spring behind the ball. I am guessing, now, but believe the ball is about 3/16 diameter +/-, witha matching spring. The detent may be all of .040 - .050 inches in depth, just enough to act as a keeper. Certainly enough to act as a rust and debris catcher if not used regularly.
When you say "Shifting the thing is a tad difficult, sometime you have to engage the clutch a bit to spin the gears", I am abit confused, as you have a forward and reverse pedal on the right side footboard for movement. Do mean that it is engaged with the right foot, but still no action? Then by dumping the clutch a few times, it comes to life? Curious...
- Willie H ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125876
>> When you say "Shifting the thing is a tad difficult...
That was about engaging the mower. When I depress the clutch and move the lever forward, it sometimes feels like it absolutely won't go -brick wall. I let out the clutch a bit to rotate whatever gears are involved, and it'll slip into gear nicely. I doubt that this is a problem, but rather a sort of mechanically primitive gearbox, it ain't no Porshe after all.
The red light I mentioned bothers me. It's not very bright, and I didn't notice it when I tried the tractor out before buying it. I'm half tempted to remove the sensor from the engine block and install a gauge, at least temporarily. Any thoughts?
__Mike
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125880
>> The detent really is not that substantial feeling perse..
Understood. Just enough of a feel to mark the correct position and hold it there.
Thanks
_Mike ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125886
>> Another way to check the vintage ...type of rear hub..
>> if it is a long through bolt, that tightens against
>> the outside hex wall as a clamp onto the shaft, ...
>> along with a 3/8 dowel pin and cotter ...
Sorry, I couldn't quite make a picture of that.
What I have is:
Looking at the back wheel, a roughly 1-3/4" hex head that seems recessed into the center of a hub-like casting. From underneath, I see a dowel pin and cotter and what may well be a clamping arrangement of some sort.
Having taken a better look, that 1-3/4" hex head appears to be the finished end of the axle, which is a big chunk of hex stock. Sound about right?
_Mike
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| WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England
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2006-03-09 125891
Mike -
As far as the hub is concerned, from the back of the rim (usually anyway), one will find the hub, much like on an automobile. If you were to look at the hub from behind the wheel/tire, you should see the orange hub with a hex head bolt running straight into the shaft direction on center of the hub. This is the variety of yesterday, where this bolt draws down on a three sided plate weldment inside the hub, to accommodate the hex shaft. (i.e.: three sides in the hub, three sides on the bolt driven clampimg half)
The later hubs, used a steel dowel pin for locating the hubon the axle as well (for width adjustment). Then there is a hex head bolt about 3.5 inches long (guessing 7/8 - 15/16 head head dia.) that was located on one side of the hub assembly, and acting as a clamping assembly against the hub. With this assembly, rather than having a weldment that most always went bad and then wore against the shaft, rounding it off, it has two eccentric cams inside the hub that close up as you draw the hex head bolt tighter, causing a tightening against the shaft.
The 7100 came thru with only one light on the dash. As you look at the dash, from left to right, you will see the hazard lamp switch, below it the hour meter, next your light switch, your decompression plunger, steering column, engine oil pressure lamp, glow plug coil lamp, then your horn button. As you can see, the only lamp that could light would be that of the engine oil pressure. You had a good idea before to change the filter and oil. Might be a good idea to clean the engine compartment as well, incase a mouse or debris has nested against the contacts causing a wanna be circuit, activating the lamp.
If you would like a pic of the hub assemblies, let me know and I will scan one over to you, so we are on the same page.
- Willie H ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125900
>> If you would like a pic of the hub assemblies,
>> let me know and I will scan one over to you...
How about this. I'll post a couple on and RV site we frequent. I'm not sure what will work here> I'm adding a link in this reply window. If no picture appears, try the address below.
The first address will take you to a picture of the back of the wheel.
http://femuze.irv2.com/images/tractor_wheel-2.jpg
This one shows the left wheel form the outside.
http://femuze.irv2.com/images/tractor_wheel-1.jpg
I hope that saves you more trouble than it makes.
_Mike ....
Picture Link
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| WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England
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2006-03-09 125903
Mike,
Thanks for the pic. The web links did not work from my email, but the link here did.
What you have is defintely the older style hub. As you can see, the clamping bolt is in the center line of the shaft and draws a three sided weldment against the three sides of the shaft. The steel dowel pin, is used for location of the hub/wheel assembly for either narrowing or widening the footprint or the rear tires.
Make sure that the clamp stays secure. If the hex head bolt that is spring loaded, loosens, the hub will not be tight on the shaft, and wear will occur on the shaft. This will be noticable by a crackly grindy noise as the wheel will want to wobble a bit under weight.
The good news, is that you can upgrade to the newer style hub and all will fit fine, should you need to.
- Willie H ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125908
Regarding the pictures. I wasn't sure the link provided by the forum would work, but I tested it and got the picture. The strange thing is that when I tried it a second time I got a little message say that non-premium member couldn't use those links.
Anyway, you managed to see what needed to be seen. I'll leep a close eye one those clamps. I'd rather spend money on something that will make the tractor more productive, After that, I'd probably be more amenable to spending further bucks on the hubs. This tractor is old enough that it's always possible that junkers with interesting part will turn up, too.
Thanks for identifying the hub type. With your help. my familiarity with the machine has grown quite a bit today.
Any idea what normal oil pressure should be of this engine?
_Mike ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-09 125909
I should have mentioned that those two picture addresses in my previous message should have been copied, then pasted into your web browser's address window. I have a young computer here that has never visited those sites, therefore doesn't have any of the recognition cookies you might think would be necessary. I tested the addresses on that machine and they worked. And boy, was I surprised.
_Mike
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| WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England
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2006-03-13 126012
Mike -
The oil pressure switch will close if the pressure drops below 7-8psi. I believe that this engine will be running at about 60-70 psi.(ballpark)
Hope this helps -
- Willie H ....
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| Femuse
Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Virginia
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2006-03-13 126027
It's good to have some idea of what pressures to expect. I hope to find my way to the auto parts store and get a pressure gauge in the next couple days.
If that pressure switch isn't defective, I've probably got a real problem, but I'll just stay calm until the facts are in.
Thanks again,
_Mike ....
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