Go BottomNeed advice on which tractor to buy
 | Gloria
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2006-03-01 125359
I'm buying 40 acres of unimproved land and haven't needed more than my Polaris Ranger for all the dragging, hauling and dumping on my place.
I'll need to do some grading, discing of firebreaks, lifting manure and hay, and I'm sure a lot of other things. The terrain is rolling hills. I really need some advice on which tractor to buy. I don't have a lot of money, but want to get the right tractor so I can do the work I need to do with it.
Thanks.
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 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York 
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2006-03-01 125360
Is the hay in round bale form or large or small square? How much manure? Will the tractor also have to go into a barn? ....
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 | Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2006-03-01 125361
I would look through some of the other posts. The first thing you want to do is establish what your need parameters are.
You need something more than 35 hp and some weight. If you want to lift and carry round bales you need some weight as the bales are at least 1200 lb and some are closer to 2000.
If you are placing this on a front end loader (FEL) then you need a safety margin to lift and move safely.
If for example this is a daily task most have a 50-65 hp tractor. ....
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| Gloria
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2006-03-01 125362
100-120# bales, not the big round bales.
Grading will be minimal, I'll hire someone with heavy equip to do the majority of the grading, but I'm always moving gravel around and smoothing for good footing. ....
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| Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2006-03-01 125366
Do you need to be new or can you live with used?
I would look at least 25 hp PTO. There are some good choices out there. Economy models such as the NH TC-30 can get you tractor and loader around 15K in 4X.
What type of terrain is the place? Do you need 4X on the CUT? ....
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| Gloria
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2006-03-01 125367
Manure will be piled, and I'll have to either dump it in a spreader or scoop to load into truck, etc.
Used is good if I can find a decent tractor. Lower cost is definitely better for me.
Tractor will be stored in a barn with a 14' opening.
Any particular brands/years? Sounds like 35-40hp with 25hp PTO. Given where I live, it's a long drive to any dealers. Would be good to have an idea of brands/models that would be realistic. Unfortunately no one around who can advise on it all. My Dad had a tractor for his almond orchard for years but was really handy and would do all his maintenance and repair himself. It's not something I can expect to do. So REALLY old not a good plan. ....
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 | SG8NUC
Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 579 g 
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2006-03-01 125376
On the long drive to the dealer think about asking him for delivery, service. Maybe he can meet you half way. See what they can do. Seeing how it is a long drive go to all the dealers get what you can. As far as what is the best tractor the guys on this post will provide you with the best information on that. I have a Farm Pro 2425 with FEL and I do not beleive it will suit your purpose. Farm Pro has larger tractors, service is so so, you will need a Front end loader check out their web site google farm pro. They will deliver, and will most likley be the cheapest. They had very few bells and whistles as of 2 years ago things like hydrstatic, etc. Check out their web site. I bought mine from a dealer new and a dealer is the way to go but will cost a few $s more. Good Luck. ....
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 | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2006-03-01 125380
Just a few ideas from a few brands:
John Deere: 990 4WD, 5105
New Holland: TC30, TC40
Kubota:7800, M4800, M49000
Kioti: DK45, DK40, DK35
Used models
International 424, 444, 464, 484, 586
John Deere 2520, 1070, 1050
Ford 3910, 4110, 4000 Series, 1920
What you sound like you are looking for is a limited duty small farm tractor. You want a very basic and RELIABLE machine that can ready hand a wide variety of tasks. I strongly recommend that you stay away from the models with a lot of electrical goodies/bells and whistles. Over the long term, they will not hold up. Suggest you go with 4WD and a FEL. ....
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 | AnnBrush
Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 463 Troy OH
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2006-03-02 125388
If you want to do ANY discing you will need at least 40hp. To do that job properly you need a minimum speed. You can't just gear down and run a small tractor through the soil at a very slow pace. ....
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 | jarndt
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 351 Northern Virginia
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2006-03-02 125395
I look at the economy side of the Kubota L-series. Probably an L3400 or L4400 or similar older model. They are inexpensive, reliable, no frills tractors and should be capable of handling the work you described. If you are concerned about price, don't even bother looking at the Grand-L's or the M-series, and the B-series is simply too small. ....
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| Hilly2
Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 5 Sherwood, Oregon
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2006-03-02 125425
I just bought a Kubota L2800 4wd with Hydo trans for $15,888 new with a loader. I love it. Very reliable and won't break, but in your case I'd go for a manual trans and more power with the L3400. My PTO hp is only 22.5 with that Hydro. With ballast in the tires my tractor weighs 4,000 pounds. ....
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| Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2006-03-02 125449
Hilly we normally don't load the tires unless we have to. On that size tractor I try to find ballast for the three point hitch or just a set or two of rear weights. Much of the time you don't need all the ballast and for those times you don't you can run light burning less fuel and faster. One fellow told me one time on ag tires it was like going from riding an elephant to a cat to not have loaded tires. ....
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| Hilly2
Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 5 Sherwood, Oregon
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2006-03-02 125454
Agreed. But I had them put Beet juice in the rear 2 tires unti I finish most of my heavy work. I have 7.5 acres with 2.5 in Doug Fir trees and a bit of a slope on a few parts of the property. I want to get max traction and the lowest ceter of gravity while I work with the loader. So I had the tires loaded with environment friendly ballast that I can dump when I'm tired of luggit around. I also have the 5 foot Land Pride rotary cutter on the back to keep the center of gravity down low. Only have 1.5 hours on it so far. Just got it on Monday....I've waited 5 years of rentals. I'm happy I got a Kubota rather than a Mahindra or other lighter tractor. Since I'm new to the site, please recommend a forum for implements.
I have the 5 foot mower and plan on picking up a 6 or 7 foot Farm blade next week. I was wanting a box scraper to do the driveway, but I have a few dropoffs that this scraper makes a little easier and safer to work on. I was thinking of getting a rake and a chipper as well as a box scaper eventually. Lot's of money to spend. My fields are gopher hole ridden, I'm thinking of tilling it or discing, however I'm not sure this 29 hp Hydro will pull a disc. Thoughts? ....
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| Gloria
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2006-03-02 125458
Thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate it. If the snow stops I may take the drive to some of the tractor dealers and see what kind of used tractors they have in stock. Keep the advice coming though. This is a big purchase and I really can use the advice. ....
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| amboise
Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 7 Georgetown Divida, CA
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2006-03-02 125459
(aka Gloria -- not a guest anymore)
Was reading about the ballast. When do you use it, for traction, for rough terrain, both? And I saw putting liquid in the tires and weighting down the PTO, or did I read it wrong? More info please! ....
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| Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2006-03-02 125460
In our area tillers are used far more then disc's do to the heft of the soil as it is tight packed with clay for the most part. Different areas are sand like and might be able to be disc'd. The more something weighs the more horsepower it takes to move it. ....
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| amboise
Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 7 Georgetown Divida, CA
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2006-03-03 125462
The soil is probably more clay than sand with some rock as well. It's never been farmed, so is pretty much raw pasture. I'll be putting a 15' fire break around the perimeter and spreading manure which is where I thought I'd use a disc. Which would be better disc or tiller? Sorry to be so ignorant. Is one more versatile than another? And can the same tractor pull either.
I'm hoping to have at least a halfway intelligent conversation with the tractor dealers. ....
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 | harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY 
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2006-03-03 125464
amboise welcome to the comunity. I probably would not have chimed in except for the comment about a intellegent conversation with a sales guy.
Bcareful some the the sales guys have never shoveled material from the south end of a north facing male bovine, but they are full of it!
Continue to do your homework, visit and ask questions, take material home and ask more questions. Don't get in a hurry. Some of the sales people are very high pressure and will do whatever story it takes to sell one. ....
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| Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2006-03-03 125479
The tiller will go deeper faster then the disc with less trips to bury it. I would wonder as to how deep you choose to bury the manure and I might just suggest the disc for corrosions sake of the tiller. Many people are finding to stack manure and allow it to rot in piles it is easy to get rid of for gardeners in there area. ....
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 | kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2006-03-03 125487
In my area tillers are used very little. I find it amazing it will go deeper faster than disk. In my soil which has some clay my disk will cut about 3 inches with grass on it on first pass. If no grass but light crop stuble will cut 6 or more inches on first cut and about 9 inches or so on following pass as deep as my disk is set to go). Now, a light weight disk probabably is slower than tiller on grass.
If you are spreading manure that is fresh, you will need to pay attention to weed seeds in your feed and hay. All may not, but a good amount will pass through a horse's system unharmed. That is a benefit of letting the manure compost until the heat in it builds up enough to kill the seeds. I would want to be sure this was not uphill or upstream.
As to the tractor sales person being high pressure. In my experience get away from the dealerships the urban types buy with or the construction person is using. The locals ones here that deal in that market are more hard sell and they don't understand your need the same. I would suggest at least visit dealerships in farming area if possible. Then do so during the week and not weekends. If they are even open on a Saturday they usually don't have the time to take with you properly. I am very fortunate in that I have meet the bad kind but knew it in minutes but more so have meet and dealt with some very helpful ones that really knew their equipment and gave great advice. Those often use the equipment themselves or their family does.
kt ....
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| Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2006-03-03 125492
Gloria, if your primary application is disking in the accumulated manure and seeding pasture; then I would say the disk would be your best bet. As you remove built up manure from the barn/stable area, you can spread that in areas lacking in plant nutrients first and other areas later. My experience is that a drag harrow or similar implement works VERY well at spreading out the manure piles that accumulate in the pastures/paddocks. A pto tiller works best for gardens and installing seed beds for turf/lawns. Another thing that will really help out your pastures is to take some soil samples and have them evaluated. (talk to your local Agricultural extension agent) Then you can apply lime and fertilizer as required. A core aerator will be very valuable in preparing these areas prior to lime and fertilizer application. I would say that for the cost of a good pto tiller; you could come fairly close in price for the purchase of a disk, drag harrow, and core aerator. The tiller is a nice piece of equipment but it may be more geared toward other applications that may not be what you are shooting for. Anyhow, just thought I would throw in some ideas. ....
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| amboise
Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 7 Georgetown Divida, CA
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2006-03-03 125495
From all you said I think the disk is the way to go. I shouldn't need to go greater than 3" and cost is definitely a factor. I've got a lightweight harrow that has seen service in manure spreading and gravel smoothing towed behind the ranger. I think you're right about the harrow. I'll do some investigating.
I will be piling the manure to break down and destroy unwanted pests. It will be a luxury to easily move and spread the piles. I love my ranger but it's a lot of shoveling to load and move anything, and I move a lot of manure and gravel.
I've got some names of dealers to check out. I sure hope it doesn't turn out to be like visiting a used car lot. I can hold my own but it's no fun. Often us ladies don't get taken seriously when we walk on a lot.
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| Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2006-03-04 125554
KT, a tiller will go to it's maximum depth that it is set at the first pass. A disc often might take several passes as you described. To allow the manure to deteriorate it needs air which is not in abundance six inches down in the soil. Ambrose, to leave the manure in a piled state will allow the weed seeds to germinate in the pile rather then add them to your fields. Straw normally will not have the weed seeds as they are cleaned by the combine in the threshing process. ....
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| DenisS
Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 367 NJ
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2006-03-06 125621
some straw will have seeds though; Many a times my wife spread straw around the barn dirt floor to tidy it up a bit only to have a good deal of grass come up from under that straw! I have sky lights in the barn and some areas are a bit wet from ground water so the whole thing turns into a greenhouse..
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