Go BottomJohn Deere
 | Mark McAllister
Join Date: Posts: 1 
|
2001-03-03 24980
Got a little problem here... I bought a used JD 950 with a box blade a month or so ago in fair cond. Used it for driveway scraping and pulling logs out of the way. Rebuilt engine done by the friend who sold it to me. Tractor got in the way of a falling tree, which fell across the seat and steering wheel. Seat and wheel bent back into recognizable shape and seemed to run fine. An hour or so of running later, engine has fist-sized hole in block. Did the tree cause stress on the block to cause this?
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Kenny
Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 46 sale creek
|
2001-03-04 24991
Mark, I seriously doubt that the tree caused the hole in the block . If the tree hit the tractor that hard, it probably would have broken the tractor in half. More likely, it sounds as if tou had a rod bearing failure, which caused the rod to become disconnected from the crankshaft and knocked the hole in the block from the inside. Did the engine make any unusual noise before it failed? Usually an engine develops a loud knock before a failure like this. Perhaps your friend that did the engine work did not torque the rod bolts properly. In any event it sounds like your only choice now is a new engine block or maybe you could find a good used engine, but remember that you might be buying someone elses problem when you buy used. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Jim Reichard
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-04 25004
Hi Mark sorry to hear about your situation, a couple of things ,1 were is the hole in your block ? 2 Did the engine lock up or suddenly stop with a big bang?,3 is there any internal engine parts now hanging out of your block?4 Have you drained your engine oil to see if there are any metal deposits in it? Probably your cheapest and best bet is check E bay I have seen several yanmar genoraters and water pump units that had the same engine as what was in my John Deere 950 for a little more than $1000.00 with as little hours as 65. I hope this helps keep us informed. JIM ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Mark McAllister
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-04 25006
Jim, the hole in the block is on the left side with the rod from the #3 cylinder sticking out. It didn't lock up, it was hammering loudly and had to be shut down. I haven't drained the oil out of it, we just kinda put our tools away after it blew...... I have most of the cast parts from the block. JB weld and turn the crank? Or am I dreaming? If not, I'll check Ebay for generator or pump. Thx ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Jim Reichard
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-04 25025
I'm sorry Mark but J B weld isn't going to cut it the deisel compression is way to high . It sound like you either lost a rod bearing which would start beating the rod up and down with end play until it broke the rod or one of its bolts or my be one of you rod bolts was already streached and fractured either durring the rebuild or just after. it never pays not to have the rods resized and bolts replaced on a rebuild.
JIM ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
 | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada 
 Pics
|
2001-03-05 25050
I'm a little confused, that in itself is nothing new, however unless I very much misunderstead the thread of this message the hole in the block is not IN cylinder # 3 it is in the crankcase just below it. If this is the case there will be NO compression forces against the hole and therefore the weld were it to be fixed by welding, only a little blow-by nothing of consequence. I would strip down the motor first to determine exact extent of damage and check if the crank has been twisted by the impact of rod end to block. If it is ok, then there is no reason not to rebuild, as long as the # 3 cylinder was not badly scored by the rod. Best of luck. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Jim Metz
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-05 25056
I bought a 955 with a rod through the side of the motor. the damage was where, yes,JB weld and a piece of stainless solved my problem. I used the machine 5 years and it never developed a leak. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Jim Reichard
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-05 25058
I agree if the rod came through the lower side of the block and did not include the piston bore that it may buse JB weld . But if it in the bore area for get it . It wouldn't last.
JIM ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Mark McAllister
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-05 25067
Ah! So it may be possible to repair the block if I can get someone who knows how to weld on cast metal, IF the cylinder walls are ok. New rod(s)and whatever else I find worn, scratched, etc. Sorry I don't make myself clear most of the time. My friend who sold it to me, and who is the one who rebuilt the engine, is worried. It had no warranty, but he's a good guy and wants to do the right thing. I'm just trying to help him.
Mark ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Jim Reichard
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-05 25069
Mark you should be able to get the block welded by a automotive machine shop or a regular machine shop with out a hole lot of trouble . I use to work at a shop in Maryland that was 50% of our work. We use to use nickel 99 rod it was one of the best and strongest for that type of repair. But it wasn't CHEAP.GOOD LUCK!
JIM ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Mark McAllister
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-05 25070
Thanks, Jim for that. Maybe not cheap to have it welded up, but I'm sure its cheaper than a new block! Cant do much until my friend can get it apart, but it'd sure be nice to have my tractor back!!
Mark ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Mark McAllister
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-05 25071
Thanks for all the help! It may be a while before the thing gets torn down, but that seems to be the least expensive way to go. Can't wait to get it apart!
Mark ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Greg franklin
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-07 25173
I remember in high school during a repair I forgot to drain the WATER out of my '67 Firebird six cylinder. It froze and cracked in a non cylinder area. I pulled the whole motor out and threw it into the back of the truck and went to the local welder without even draining the oil! He took some special rod and a chipping hammer and he would weld a little, about 3/4 inch and then would take the sharp end of his welding hammer and peck for a long time in that weld area, something about relieving the stresses. I didn't even think anything about him using the flywheel as the grounding location. Once done, I put it back in the car, watched the ANTIFREEZE pour out, pulled the motor again and had him weld the second crack (not draining the oil was starting to save me time, you know, 18 and Friday afternoon). Much later with a different problem I pulled the motor and found where the grounding arc burned into the main bearing. (Cont.) ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Greg franklin
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-07 25175
It left a nice burned spot on one of the crank journals and it's mating bearing but I never did seem to have a problem from it either. Anyway, I learned several things 1)I always drain the block 2)Faced with a similiar repair again I would ground to the block, 3) A knowledgable welder can repair cast iron with special rod 4) I've since read where preheating part of the block with a torch and rosebud significantly helps this repair along with peening, 5)there is a certain amount of info on this type of repair on the net if you conduct a search (Sorry I'm no help now on where) and 6)I never weld on anything attached to the tractor (but I might if I ever HAVE to with special care to grounding). ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Mark McAllister
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-09 25297
Thx Greg for the info. We were considering trying to do the repair while leaving the engine as in tact as possible. Saturday is the day to disassemble it all and assess things. Now I know it will be a good idea to tear it all apart to avoid problems in the future. I'd really like for this thing to last!!
Thx again, Mark ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Craig Smith
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-15 25561
Regarding this type of situatioon, if the cylinder wall are scored or damaged, could they be re-bored?
Also as an alterrnative, has anyone ever had a diesel that had new cylinders sleeves put in? This requires the cylinder to be bored and then a sleve installed that makes the cylinder the original appropriate size.
I am just mentioning possible options, but my exposure to small diesels are new and limited.
I'm not sure of the cost to block replacement value.
If I am way off in this area, someone let me know. It is the only way I can learn. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add PhotoJohn Deere
| Mark McAllister
Join Date: Posts: 1
|
2001-03-16 25580
With the diesel in a JD tractor, sleeves are already in there. Unless you have a hole in the block like I do, a block can last forever- it can be re-sleeved. As to the cost of block replacement, my JD 950 has a Yanmar engine and the cost of the block is about 1,550. Thats bare block, not including gasket kits, etc. I haven't had a chance to check out a Yanmar dealer in case we're paying for the JD name, but I doubt it'll be a lot less. ....
Reply to |
Quote Reply |
Add Photo
Go Top
Share This