Go BottomJohn Deere 4300 will not start HELP
 | markpee
Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 26 Pine Bush, NY 
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2006-12-16 138083
Any suggestions? I drove my JD4300 all day today, using the back blade to re-grade the driveway. Nothing big. I shut it down after a few hours (let it idle for a while first). When I went to put it in the garage, the starter cranks and cranks - but she won't start. It was about 40 degrees at the time. I did use the pre-heater, and also used a blow dryer to try to heat up various areas. Any suggestions? I am suspecting the fuel cut-off solonoid. I did check the resistance and all seemed to be okay. Could it still be bad? Help.
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 | Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL 
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2006-12-16 138085
Can you see the glow from the preheat? Ie is the preheat working?
Are you sure it is pumping fuel. What color is the exhaust as you are cranking? ....
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| markpee
Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 26 Pine Bush, NY
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2006-12-16 138090
Good questions. The preheat light comes on - the one on the dash. I'm not sure where to look otherwise (at the actual preheat itself). I don't think there is smoke coming out of the stack, and I really can't say for sure if there is fuel flowing. It does seem like there's no fuel flowing, otherwise it should start.....it cranks healthy, but no juice. I did pull the fuel filter and it seemed fine. ....
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Add PhotoJohn Deere 4300 will not start HELP
 | kentfield
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 16 southern VT and western Ma
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2006-12-16 138092
The piston in the fuel shut down sol has oil in back of take the sol push the piston in and put it back on will start. until it fills up again needs new sol ....
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| hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002 Posts: 3583 iowa
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2006-12-17 138094
I think kentfield is right, I remember this happening to someone elses 43 or 4400 a couple years ago. Someone with a better memory can tell you more details. Best of luck. Frank. ....
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Add PhotoJohn Deere 4300 will not start HELP
 | harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY 
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2006-12-17 138096
On thr right rear side of motor the wire harness has a junction for the fuel selonid. For what ever reason from that junction to the selonid seems to cause the problem.
I have been there several times. It has caused me enough stress... There does not seem to be any loose or bad connections. The wire seems good. Plug it back in and mine starts. It has happened 2x to me in 1200+ hours and my neighbors 1x.
I use an good quality electric grease in the plugs and on the terminals.
Do not go buy stuff untill you check this area.
Also as an after thought recheck your safety switches.
If you just need to get it running you can use a jumper wire to the selonid. Thats how I get it from the summer shed to the shop to work on it.
Harvey ....
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| markpee
Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 26 Pine Bush, NY
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2006-12-17 138102
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to try it this morning. When I unpluged the soloriginally, there was dirt in the plug. I loaded it with grease, so I'm thinking it may be the piston, as this is a common problem with these sols. ....
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| markpee
Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 26 Pine Bush, NY
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2006-12-17 138103
Thanks for the advice everyone. I removed the sol this morning, and pushed in the piston. A bunch or greasy black stuff came out - not sure if it was oil, it looked more like greasy black stuff. I put the sol back on the tractor after cleaning the connectors and loading them with dielectric grease. After two stalls, she finally started and is working fine. Does anyone think I should replace the sol, or just leave it alone? Are the new ones built better, in that they wont cause problems? ....
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| harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY
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2006-12-17 138109
I don't recall any fluid in mine. I would not rush out and buy a new one unless it fails again for the same reason in a very short time.
Good Thread Harvey ....
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| jd110_1963
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 87 westminster, md
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2006-12-17 138142
I think the new solenoids are made alittle differently so this doesn't happen any more. If I remember correctly, there is a groove in the side of the plunger so the oil can get past. You also may have a thermistor that is failing. The thermistor controls how long the pull-in windings of the solenoid stay engaged. It is located behind the fuse panel. Pull the fuse panel out and cut out the old one and then solder in a new one. It is part number LVU10323 and is alot cheaper than a new solenoid. It is a small square orange device about 3/8" square. We call it a "chicklet" (gum). Maybe I am showing my age, do they still make "chicklets"? ....
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| markpee
Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 26 Pine Bush, NY
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2006-12-18 138146
I'll have to check that out. This is the first I've heard to check this. I'll let you know. ....
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 | kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2006-12-18 138155
jd110?
Showing your "Age" or memory? ....
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| jd110_1963
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 87 westminster, md
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2006-12-18 138167
kt,
maybe a little of both, although sometimes I think the memory is losing ground. ....
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| CapnDean
Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 3 Gulfport Mississippi
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2007-05-29 142575
It is not the chicklet. DO NOT replace the fuel control solenoid.
It is a design flaw in the solenoid. Here is what happens:
You get your tractor all warmed up, and the engine oil fills the solenoid. You shut the engine down and when you try to restart it...the oil inside the solenoid prevents the rod from retracting properly. So you get out your 10mm wrench and snatch the solenoid, manually pus it in, and viola..you are in business.
If that is your problem, I have a solution for you. There are 3 wires feeding the solenoid. The black on is the ground, the red one is the "hold in" and the white one is the "pull in". Skin the white one enough that you can connect a piece of insulated wire to it. I used red wire because that's what I had handy. When the tractor is hot and it is playing the "I aint gonna start game" take your jumper wire and briefly GROUND it out. Don't worry it won't shock you or anything...but for whatever reason, grounding the wire seems to make the "pull in" circuit pull in again. I dunno why because it seemed to me that you would have to touch it to the positive battery terminal to accomplish this. I tried that and it did not work, but grounding it does. I promise! ....
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| harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY
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2007-10-27 147447
Had to reserrect this old thread.
Selenoid on mine gave me a ass ache today. Usually wiggle the relay it would pull in. Of course it was parked 10 inches away from the wood pile. I looked like a monkey on a football getting the selenoid out so tractor would start so I could get it up by shop.
The selenoid had some oil in it but I can not believe there was enough to bother. But something prevented it from pulling in.
Did the selenoids get redesigned? Any other issues out there related?
TIA Harvey ....
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| markpee
Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 26 Pine Bush, NY
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2008-04-09 152858
Harvey - It's been a while since I've been on, and I see you revisited this thread back in November. I have to tell you that I replaced the solenoid some time ago with a new one from JD (although I tried like heck to get a cheaper one from a "no name" outfit). Replacing the sol was the best thing I did, as now I can shut off the tractor in the back yard and not have a sick feeling in my gut. It has started every time. Well worth the $120 - my hands are too big to loosen those nuts all the time, plus with my luck I'd strip the holes in the block - then I'd really be in trouble. ....
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| harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY
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2008-04-10 152863
Pinebush = neighbors. Markpee since I cleaned mine with penetrating oil drained well bench tested several times it has not failed me. I did pay alot of attention to the "O" rings. had about 900 hours when acted up and am at 250 or so since cleaning. TO CHEAP to buy new UNLESS it really puts me in a bad spot. ....
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 | Woodenspars
Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 6 Coastal Maine
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2009-03-22 161316
This thread was very helpful to me about a month ago. I had a similar issue this winter and last. The problem went away last Spring when the weather got warmer.
My problem turned out to be the thermistor, aka "chiclet".
A few days before replacing it, I had success starting the tractor after aiming a blow dryer at the thermistor for about 15 minutes.
Instead of soldering the new one on, I used crimp connectors on the wiring with heat-shrink tubing over the connections. I was able to pull the fuse panel out on the right side enough for easy access to the old thermistor
I haven't had any more start problems. Cost of the thermistor was about $3.50
Thank you to everyone that contributed to the thread.
Woody
....
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