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New Holland 4 wheel drive not working

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98acre
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2 Kansas
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2009-12-27          167736


I have a 2003 TC-29 New Holland Tractor and the 4 wheel drive quit working. I have pulled the 2 top covers off of the gearcase and found a broken springclip that holds the gaer in place on the shaft. Does anyone know how to get a new spring clip on without separating the tractor and is it a special size spring clip that only New Holland has?



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New Holland 4 wheel drive not working

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2009-12-27          167737


I would have thought manufacturers get that sort of part off the shelf but when I lost one off my Stihl chainsaw (after learning how far a healthy clip can fly) the only place I could source a replacement was Herr Stihl.

It's hardly a wear (or maintenance or operator-error) item, and the design life is presumably the life of the tractor. So you may want to check your state's consumer legislation. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-12-27          167741


There are many types of clips. You may be able to replace it with a different type.

I have the factory service manual for a 2002 TC lines. Can you be more specific where this part goes and provide pix?

Another option is go to www.messicks.com , look up your machine in the parts diagram section and let me know the page and part number and maybe I can help. ....


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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
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2009-12-28          167750


Good chance it's an E-clip on the sliding gear. If there is sufficient clearance for two hands and a pliers, you can replace it from the outside. Otherwise, it's a bench job. But even more important than getting your front drive working again, is getting the broken clip out. AND - the new clip when you drop it trying to snap it onto the shaft. You definitely don't want that stuff splashing up into the gear train to wreak further havoc.

//greg// ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-12-28          167751


If it's an E-clip, try this: clean the end of a hacksaw blade and the E-clip. Place the blade and the clip on wax paper with the blade opposite the clip opening. Using gel superglue attach them together. The blade will act as a handle. Be sure to install the clip with the blade handle as straight as possible or chances are the clip will break off. I've done this a few times with success. This works good for installing nuts in hard to reach places. ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-12-28          167753


The broken one can likely be removed wthout too much trouble by first draining the gearcase, then using a magnetic pick up tool. The ones with a flexible shaft seem better for this type of situation.

Although they do make a tool for installing E clips nobody seems to use them. It is basically a thin cold chisel with a notch in the end which has a shallow groove machined into it to accept the clip and a magnet to hold it from slipping out. We generally use a piece of hardwood lath (paint stir stick works well if hardwood) with a notch in the bottom. Then make the groove by heating a washer held in vice grips and use it to burn a groove to accept the E clip. This both makes a groove the right size and also hardens the wood. A couple of drops of 5 minute epoxy will ensure it stays in place until you can tap it into place.

Best of luck.


Edited by Murf to correct the text. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-12-28          167754


Murf either you just woke up or have a hang over (or both) ---or jis' plain slippin' like Frank's old gear drive's clutch LOL: "tonyae" "unroll" errr?

Yeah, yeah it's the crackberry's fault LOL ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2009-12-28          167757


Quote:
Originally Posted by earthwrks | view 167754
Yeah, yeah it's the crackberry's fault LOL


Actually Jeff it's an iPhone not a crackberry. But yes, it's the device, nut the loose nut operating it.

We were having a good laugh over it too BTW, it seems that only does the 'intuitive spelling' not only make some funny corrections (such as 'course' instead of 'coarse') and ommissions, but it seems it doesn't even know English. It only knows 'American'. Thus if I try to spell, for instance, "neighbour" correctly it tries to 'correct' it by removing the U thus misspelling it.

Oh well, at least it keeps you busy. ;)

Best of luck. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-12-28          167758


That's because it's a smart phone LOL--it's smart enough to know that Canada is just suburb of the US, so your pseudo-King's English isn't recognized--or is that--recognised----nope it's spelled with a Z. LOL

Hey on a different note--I need your expertis(z)e:

Impact energy of a weight on concrete slab.

Picture a big 500 lb. Sledge hammer with a 6' long handle. Start point is vertical; end is horizontal. Free fall from start to end of 90 degree travel. What is impact of 3" diameter tip?

Versus

Same 500 lb. Weight and tip free falling vertically from 36" and 72"? ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-12-29          167782


This is, speaking of the English, Sir Isaac Newtons Second Law, Force equals Mass times Acceleration.

You're having a problem doing that calculation because the first one is nearly impossible to calculate. In this instance there is the starting point, what tips it over? Gravity? If so the handles not vertical, at what angle does it start? Or is there a spring or other 'starting force'? If so how much push does it give the hammer?

You see what I mean? Way too many variables.

In the second instance, things are a little simpler, it's 500 pounds times 32.15 feet per second squared (the acceleration of gravity up to terminal velocity) giving you the resultant pounds, spread over the area of a 3" circle.

Based on experience though, I can tell you, impact force hasn't got as much to do with breaking concrete as most would think. For instance the same slab will break far more readily if it's elevated even only slightly up of the ground as opposed to laying flat on the earth.

Best of luck. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-12-29          167785


Thanks Murf. The first one for simplicty was just gravity---no spring or pushing device (reality is there would be a large coil spring).

Oh I know about the energy going through the slab an into the earth--the wetter the earth the quicker and more energy is transferred.

I'm ramping up for next year for some small commercial work. The last residential job had 14" thick slabs that took 1 man 2 days to break. All I need to do is break or crack 10-12' sq x 6-8" slabs into 3,000 lb. pieces so I can grapple them and place into the truck. I don't want to wholesale "crush" per se the slabs.

Have you seen or used the PowerSledge---a sprung sledge hammer about 8-10' long that attaches to a backhoe dipper stick or skid steer. Up and down movement loads the spring and offers much more whack. But at $5000 I can make one for a tenth of that. ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-12-29          167790


I think the slickest one I saw was like a fence post pounder but with a chisel instead of a hammer and had two small forks like cut down pallet forks on it. You used the forks to get under the slab and lever it up a little, then tripped the weight to come own just beyond the forks leaving a chunk on the device itself to be either dumped or carried away.

They had it mounted on a TLB on the FEL in place of the bucket and broke up & carried away a good-sized floor slab in very short order.

If you are using the SSL another easy way to do them is to dig a small hole near the edge of the slab and place a short but large diameter hyd. cylinder with a big foot plate under the edge of the slab and use the hydraulics to force it up. They get really brittle when you do that. I've used that method and just the back of the hoe bucket to break up some 12" thick slabs.

Best of luck. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-12-29          167795


My apologies for hijacking this thread...

Murf a standard wood splitter on end would be effective to split the concrete, eh? Ideally the chisel point would be centered between two spread arms a couple feet apart under the slab.

In that vein, I could use my regualr pallet fork attachment with forks spread like ususal. Then attach a hyd cylinder to a donor fork which has the fork portion cut off (as an easy way to mount the cyl to the fork frame.) I smell a patent! ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-12-30          167804


Actually the woodsplitter is a poor example. It uses shear force, a constant pressure.

For concrete, which has remarkable elastic properties for something so hard, you definitely need a shock load. If that load is linear, such as a series of chisel blows, so much the better. Think of 'cutting' a brick, tap, tap, tap, tap, THUMP. What happens? It cuts Ruhr along the line you made by tapping.

Now if you could make a woodsplitter with a very wide chisel and introduce some method of delivering a shock load to the chisel while it's under load that would work well.

Best of luck. ....


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