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 02-14-2004, 16:08 Post: 76854
wigglybridge

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 Chains: The Further Adventures

"There is no joy in Mudville..." I wasn't expecting my first time with the chains to be easy, but I just spent an hour and a half discovering:

(1) they seem way too big -- after I tighten them as far as they can physically go without skipping cross-bars, I've got 6 extra links hanging. Does this seem right? I probably couldn't get them any tighter anyway, but I might be able to pull one more link if the next cross bar weren't there. If it is right, what do I do with this slack?
(2) more seriously, I don't see how they're ever going to clear my draft links. I must admit that I've had trouble with these draft links clearing the tires since I got the machine, and spent over 2 hours adjusting the sway bars to maximize clearance. But even after that, the 3pt blower can still pull to either side to about 1" from the tires on turns on a slope. The chains are smacking one side or the other about 25% of the time, and it falls right on a link, looks like if I drive at all it will cause big damage.

Anybody got any hints? Right now, they're worse than useless.






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 02-14-2004, 17:18 Post: 76858
wigglybridge

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 Chains: The Further Adventures

Clarification: when I said the chains hit "right on a link" I meant that they strike the draft link where the pin attaching the draft link to the link body comes through.

Here's a probably stupid question: is it possible to attach the draft links to the attachment pins from the INSIDE? That would pick me up 2" on each side and give me plenty of clearance. Not that I have wrenches big enough to reverse the pins on these attachments!






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 02-14-2004, 19:23 Post: 76870
blizzard



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 Chains: The Further Adventures

WigglyB,
You will have to shorten the chains, the cross chains are hopefully the correct size for the tire, but there could be quite a bit of extra length in the side chains, as they will fit a range of tire diameters.
Now for the clearance, I don't have a Deere, but it seems your rear tread may be set to the minimum. Hopefully your Owner's Manual will give you the information to increase the rear tread dimension. If, not I'm sure one of the other members will share their experiences. On my Kubota, I increased the rear tread 11" by reversing the rims.
Hang in there,
bliz






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 02-14-2004, 19:25 Post: 76871
DRankin



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 Chains: The Further Adventures

I have turned pins inward several times and it works fine as long as you make sure the holes for the lynch pins are accessible.






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 02-14-2004, 20:27 Post: 76876
wigglybridge

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 Chains: The Further Adventures

Bliz, how do I "shorten the chains"? This is big metal. On the plus side, I'm impressed that I pick up another 100 lbs. of wheel weights!

On the link pins, I can also pick up about 1/2" on each side by moving the nuts, so I'll try that first, it will be much easier, although I'll still need to hop down to the hardware tomorrow to big up a wrench big enough to grab those suckers!






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 02-14-2004, 21:02 Post: 76881
blizzard



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 Chains: The Further Adventures

WB,
CRS strikes again, I didn't answer some of your questions.

If your tires are not worn, you could cut off 4 or 5 of the extra links, or leave them on but securely wire them to the side chain. Probably should wire even one extra link if you have very limited clearance. You can get rubber tire chain tensioners anywhere that sells chains, Tirechains has both rubber and metal spring types. They keep things snug even if the chains are a little big. Drive for a while and check the tension again. If they are very loose you could move the cross chains back a link or two, but opening the side link is difficult.

If you're having clearance problems with attachments as well as chains, I assume you could reverse the wheels/rims or both to solve this. Hope a 4110 owner will respond if this is possible or not. You might be able to get the nuts off the hitch pins with pipe wrenches and a piece of pipe to slide over the handle, but proper wrenches (and a 5 pound hammer) make things easier.

Look at the 'Tire clearance with chains' thread for incentive to 'get them damn chains on'.
Good Luck.
bliz






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 02-14-2004, 21:18 Post: 76886
blizzard



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 Chains: The Further Adventures

I cut the extra links off with a hacksaw. Cut through one side (away from the weld) and spread with a pry bar, or cut both sides. You could also use a bolt-cutter, file, grinder, or a big chisel and hammer. Much easier and safer to cut the links with the chains in a vise or on the floor, rather than on the tire, though bolt-cutters would be easy to use with the chains mounted.
Work & Play Safely,
bliz






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 02-14-2004, 21:31 Post: 76887
blizzard



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 Chains: The Further Adventures

WB,
Be prepared for 'sticker shock' for wrenches 1-1/4" and larger (;>
bliz






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 02-14-2004, 21:32 Post: 76888
wigglybridge

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 Chains: The Further Adventures

Hey Bliz, thanks for keeping me going -- I'm feeling like a high-maintenance item lately!

The wheels are reversible, but I'd only pick up 1/3 inch on the centerline according to the manual; don't know whether that translates to anything more on the inside or not.

I'm gonna try moving the hitch pins in the remaining 1/2 inch on each side instead, and hope that gets me just enough. If not, I'll take off the blower and flip the pins, unless somebody pipes up that it's a bad idea.

I'll take your suggestion and wire the excess chain up for now -- who knows, once I figure out the real situation here I might even have enough to make up a couple of cross bars!

I gotta say, they really are more chain than I was expecting, and I mean that in a positive way. Man, these things are industrial strength.






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 02-15-2004, 07:26 Post: 76897
blizzard



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 Chains: The Further Adventures

WigglyB,
I'm having a hard time visualising your 7/8" pin setup.

1) There is a single projection near each side of the implement, about 1/2" thick. Each pin is attached to this with 2 nuts, one heavy and one thinner 'jam' nut, and a lock washer.
1a) Same as (1) except the pin has a shoulder and nut(s) and washer.

2) The tapered end of the pin points towards the tire, which is where you are getting interference.

If the above is correct, I see no reason you can't reverse the pins so the lower lift arms are closer together. you can also trim the threaded end flush. As DRankin mentioned, make sure you can get the clevis pins in the holes easily. Attaching the blower may be a little more tedious, but I assume you put it on once for the winter.
While your're at the hardware store, iron 'tie wire' used for fastening rebar is my favorite for the extra links and about 1000 other things.
Hope this helps,
bliz






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Tires Forum

Thread 76854 Filter by Poster:
blizzard 11 | DRankin 4 | harvey 1 | kwschumm 1 | wigglybridge 12 |




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