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 05-25-2001, 21:42 Post: 28581
Frank M.



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 tractor and implement size

I have asked and researched the size of tractor and the need for a disc or tiller and I am still confused. I desire to bush hog two or three acres and plant food plots on two or three acres. The soil is hard clay in several areas and loam in others.I will need to transport the tractor one hundred miles and size is important, however I need to purchase what is required. I have looked at the 790, 4100, NH and Kubota of simular sizes.One person tells me a 4 foot disc will do the job and another a tiller and plow. Do I need a 20, 25, 30 HP. I like the 4100 and the B-series, however they may be too small. The 25 NH may be the better size. The 790 is a good size, but large with no folding ROPS. I would like to put in a shed that is only 80" high. 790 is 82". Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.






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 05-26-2001, 05:28 Post: 28590
harvey



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 tractor and implement size

Frank, "Me thinks" 1 tractor transportable, and 1 attachment for working earth = 20-25 hp 4WD & 48" pto driven tiller. I would also get a 48" rotary brush type mower. The front loader is very useful. ROPS if you are not working in weird side hills, ditches or other sinful places and you have found a tractor set up and price you like and the only draw back is the height of the rops I'd take the thing off and store it. OR if you want to use it,cut it down a few inches till it fits and reweld it. This will offend most safety nuts, but me thinks good common sense, gut feel and sphincter tightness is the best indicator of when to quit doing or not doing something dumb. Not sure what I'm talking about go find a "HIGH" bridge and climb up on the top rail and stand there.






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 05-26-2001, 07:35 Post: 28592
TomG

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Regarding ROPS's: I'm a believer in the 'if it feels unsafe, then it probably is' notion. I'd trust my gut more than a tiltmeter, which I don't have. Unfortunately, that doesn't provide protection against unpredicted load changes, which do happen. Good ballasting practices help but provide no guarantees. Most of my uncles went through their farming careers without ROPS's, and most suffered rollovers. Fortunately, there was no loss of life or limb, but rollovers do happen and ROPS plus seat belts do help. So I have a somewhat different perspective, and both are valid views I guess. I do want to point out some practical implications of ROPS modifications. I've heard a number of comments that manufacturer warranties are voided if any welding is done on a ROPS, so that would seem wise to check out. My insurance broker told me that liability claims are honoured for 'accidents.' In the case of the stored waste oil we inherited with a property, she said an accident with the oil probably wouldn't be covered since the potential should have been foreseen. Therefore it wouldn't be an accident. We got it pumped at considerable expense. Anyway, there's a chance that a modification to a ROSP could expose an owner to a difficult wrangle with an insurance company in event of accident. Also something to think about. On the other hand, we solved the ROPS height problem with a 14 x 25 arctic shelter tent. What I have to think about in a few years is building an equipment shed that is tall enough for the tractor.






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 05-26-2001, 08:17 Post: 28594
Don M



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 tractor and implement size

If you click on the Carver Eqpt links, there is a section in their site that deals with "what size implements for what size tractor". It seems to be pretty accurate.

-Don M






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 05-27-2001, 06:43 Post: 28626
TomG

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RE implement size. Most of implement manufacturer sites contain spec tables that include recommended and max HP tables as well. I believe that most recommendations are on the conservative size, because a manufacturer doesn't want unhappy customers. And, tires, ballast and operator technique has a lot to do with the size implement a tractor can manage. Sticking with the recommendations should be a safe course, but the recommendations shouldn't be a straightjacket, but there probably should be a good reason for departing from recommendations. It's often possible to use a larger implement than recommended by taking 'smaller bites' and going slower. In my case, I run a 6' box scrapper on a 24hp tractor with turf tires. The scraper is larger than generally would be recommended, but it works well for me. I wanted the extra width to make it easier to crown drives and cut side grades. I knew when I bought it that I would be traction challenged when using the scarifiers to cut sod. However, it works OK if I control the depth and go slow. It's worth it to me to get nearly perfect crowns on the drives. There are different issues with PTO implements. Murf mentioned that, going larger than recommended with a PTO implement can stress the pto clutch into premature failure. On the other, I might buy a 5' medium duty rotary cutter, which would be larger than recommended. The 5' width would cover my tire tracks, and most times the cutter would be used for light brush. The medium duty grade would enable cutting the occasional stand that contained a few larger saplings. I would recognize the potential for abusing the tractor and take it easy with the cutter. The reason for max hp recommendations is that a tractor can damage an implement--especially a pto implement. If using a small implement, ground speed should be kept down and shear pins or slip clutches should be appropriate for the small implement.






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 01-30-2002, 01:10 Post: 35079
BCalvin, Texas
2002-01-30 00:00:00
Post: 35079
 tractor and implement size

You have several problems here. First if the soil is virgin and has not been plowed unless you purchase a pto driven tiller as the one man suggested you are going to need a larger tractor to bust up that property to start with. Once the property has been opened up a smaller tractor with a small set of gang discs will handle the job for many years to come.But a smaller tractor today althoght having a lot of HP it is difficult to find a GOOD two bottom plow that has the heft and workmanship to get that property openned up so you can work if efficiently. A tractor in that HP range will not handle any more than a two bottom plow....so we are back to the pto tiller....the tiller althogh expensive is what most of the tractor manufatures are pushing today because they do the job, are expensive and yoy really need to know how to plow a fiels with a tradition bottom plow...the tiller eliminates all that.






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 01-30-2002, 06:28 Post: 35084
TomG

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I think that just attaching a traditional plow can be a challenge, let alone doing the actual plowing--guess that's why there are contests.

I think it was Bird, here or elsewhere, who described the set up for a traditional plow. It's enough to make many people want to spend the money for a tiller I guess. I also guess that's why farm equipment yards around here are knee-deep in old rusty plows. There probably wouldn't be quite so many of them if they were as ornamental as back-dump rakes.






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 01-30-2002, 10:38 Post: 35092
DRankin



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 tractor and implement size

You say that you need to transport the tractor 100 miles..... is that a one time thing or are you going to do that on a regular basis?






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 04-02-2002, 20:11 Post: 36993
Duane



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 tractor and implement size

My 2 cents:

If you want to keep the ROPS the same hieght for safety concerns, it might pay to cut the ROPS and fabricate the parts necessary to make it into a folder. You could do this yourself if you have the tools for nearly nothing, or you could pay a few bucks and have a welding shop do it for you.

As far as plowing or tilling is concerned, I would have to go with the rototiller idea. I don't know a whole lot about plows or plowing, but those little rototillers really do a nice job. When I break new ground for a garden for someone they usually are amazed at how loose the soil is after I am done. I usully go over new unbroken soil 4 or 5 times with a rototiller, but when I am done it's ready for planting.

The 790 really seems like alot of tractor for the money. At least horsepower wise. If that's the size tractor you need and it fits your budget, I wouldn't fret too much about the ROPS. Either modify it to fold, or cut a couple inches off the sucker and pay closer attention to the tightness of your sphincter.






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 04-03-2002, 06:03 Post: 37000
TomG

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I recognize the practicality of what Duane says. On the other hand, anybody who may consider modifying an ROPS might check the tractor's warranty etc. I think quite a few newer tractors have various warranty and liability exclusions if any modification is done to the ROPS. I've heard that welding and even drilling a ROPS can create a warranty problem. Insurance polities likely would have exclusions as well. Of course, I sure would like to be able to get my own tractor in the garage.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Size Tractor Needed Forum

Thread 28581 Filter by Poster:
BCalvin, Texas 1 | Don M 1 | DRankin 1 | Duane 1 | Frank M. 1 | harvey 1 | JimTN 1 | TomG 4 |




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