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 12-06-2000, 22:02 Post: 22183
cutter



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We had our first significant snowfall yesterday. I packed the base a bit with the tires and then tried my old 6' lightweight rear blade on the driveway. The only thing I noticed different from last year is that the industrial tires don't seem to grip as well on packed snow as the turfs did. Looks like I'll be installing chains, I was quite surprised with the performance. Has anyone else had this same experience? My feeling is that the harder rubber compound in the R4's may be costing traction over the turfs.






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 12-06-2000, 22:10 Post: 22184
Bird Senter

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Cutter, I'm fortunate to not have to worry about snow and ice, but I would have thought the R4s would have better traction (in snow at least) than the turfs. I'm wondering about what air pressure you're running in those R4s. If they are a bit overinflated, won't that hurt your traction?






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 12-06-2000, 22:19 Post: 22185
cutter



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No, Bird Senter I don't think they are. 20# rear and 30# front with the loader on. I was very surprised, I did raise the pressure slightly due to added implement weight, but they are still not at their max.. Believe it or not, the turfs were much better in this type of snow but terrible in the wetter stuff. I had a truck with a heater and plow before and never had to be serious with the tractor/blade combo. I'm learning this compact business like every other one, the hard way.






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 12-06-2000, 22:37 Post: 22188
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cutter, I'm running 9 psi in my 17.5x24 R4's with no problem and I think they could be run lower but I'm a little nervous about trying.






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 12-06-2000, 22:56 Post: 22191
Bird Senter

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Cutter, I don't remember what size tires you have and how much weight you have on them, but that sure sounds like high air pressure to me. I think mbjacobs has a better idea, and maybe some others with R4s will respond. My little B2710 has R1 (ag) tires and on the sidewall of the tire shows 35 psi max "to seat the bead", but 16 rear and 24 front for max load. I'm running 12 in the rear and 16 in the front unless I'm going to be doing heavy loader work and then I boost the front ones to 24.






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 12-07-2000, 09:11 Post: 22203
Art White



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Cutter there are some good notes above, we just set up a new tractor with R-4's and I had the rears at 9lbs before they looked right. The front tires where about 17 lbs and there was a loader on it and they worked fine. You should have a full or nearly full tread on the ground to have the tire presure right. The air pressure listed on the side is the Maximum tire inflation for assembly or to set the bead.






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 12-07-2000, 12:22 Post: 22208
Murf

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Cutter, as someone who has several compacts that plow snow I can tell you that your suspicions are correct, you DID get better traction with the turf's than with your R4's. The reason is relatively simple physics, the traction a tire gets (on solid ground) is mostly a function of the EDGES of the lugs 'biting' in as they come around and contact the ground, therefore the more lugs (on the turf's) you have, the more traction you will get. The complicating factor (as you already discovered) is that if you are in wet, heavy snow, the treads may pack full of snow, effectively eliminating the edges, and the traction. This can be greatly reduced with a large amount of 'Armour-All' or similar which will help make the tire release the snow from the treads easier, so will lower tire pressures a little, which will cause more tire flex, releasing debris. The ultimate solution, if you are not operating on pavement that matters (asphalt, concrete, or pavers) is to 'stud' the tires, like people used to run on their cars in the 'old days' (sorry Roger...) they are WAY superior to chains, especially if you have to 'drive' the machine very far, or very fast, since there is no tire chains 'flapping' around. The best ones are now readily available for people who race either cars or motorcycles on ice. They are like sheet metal screws made from carbide-like material and the ridge around the edge of the head is more pronounced, and very sharp. You just screw one into the center of each lug (on turf's, several on each lug of R1' or R4's) where they will contact the ground using a drill with a bit-driver tip. You will not believe the traction you will have, especially on frozen ground. Best of luck.






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 12-07-2000, 12:36 Post: 22209
cutter



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Thank you all for the advice. I think I will lower the pressure back to my summer specs, which is 12rr and 20frt and see what the footprint looks like with the loader on. It appeared to be good contact, with full tread width in the snow last night. I did check for that. I have chains that may fit the front tires. Will drive line damage occur by having them only on the front? The studding idea sounds good but may not work so well for mowing, I don't know.






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 12-07-2000, 13:27 Post: 22210
Murf

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Cutter, I dont leave the studs in year-round..... it takes 10 min. to put them in or take them out.






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 12-07-2000, 13:59 Post: 22211
Art White



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Cutter when I first heard of someone doing that it was one of my farm customers about 15 years ago. I haven't found anything bad about it yet as much as I cringed at the thought of it at first. It was at first to be cheaper than the rear chains which it was, plus is on your steering axle it helps you go the way you want to. I know of the screws that Murf is talking about and I never thought about Armour All but I believe both are great Ideas especially the studs instead of chains. That is as long as they aren't to long!






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Projects Forum

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Art White 5 | Bird Senter 2 | cutter 8 | DFB 3 | mbjacobs 1 | Murf 2 | Roger L. 2 | TomG 1 |




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