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 08-29-2000, 10:15 Post: 19242
Thomas M. Meza



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 Pitcher Pump Water Well

I want to install a 2 inch pipe 20 to 25 feet into the ground. I do have post hole (pto type) digger, loader and backhoe. My first thoughts were to use the loader and cut down about 4 feet, then use the post hole digger, 24 inch auger, and dig another 4 feet then driving the pipe section using a dive point and sledge hammer. Another idea is to attach my Ridig pipe threading machine to the backhoe and weld a auger pilot drill point to the drive point, using the threading machine drill a 20 foot section of galvanized pipe into the ground using the downward force of the backhoe. Any thoughts or ideas.






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 08-29-2000, 14:12 Post: 19252
Jerri Neese



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 Pitcher Pump Water Well

Thomas,
I have been scratching my head about this one myself. I have toyed with using a smaller auger say 6 to 9", I have a 12", some schedule 40 pipe I suppose 1 1/2" pipe cut in 5' sections with couplings and bacically auger down the 20 or so feet. My thoughts are that I would have to pull the auger after each 5' section to clear the hole.
Back to your idea, how would you propose to remove your auger point after you have reached 25'. Would you pull everything back out again and then set your casing? Curious to hear your thoughts and anyone else's.
Jerri






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 08-29-2000, 23:02 Post: 19276
CaseyR



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 Pitcher Pump Water Well

I was digging around for some info on wells, and tossed together the following links. I haven't really looked at any of these, so no guarantees, and there is some repitition (unfortuntely the board won't allow us to make all these live links):

http://www.deeprock.com/hydra%20drill%20main.htm
http://www.lifewater.ca/m_aquifer.htmhttp://www.drillingsales.com/
http://www.artrans.com/rmsg/water/well.htm
http://www.artrans.com/rmsg/water/drillwell.htm
http://www.drilshop.com/drilboard/
http://www.drilshop.com/drilboard/messages/934.html
http://weather.nmsu.edu/hydrology/wellpoint.htm
http://www.ngwa.org/links/links.html

Probably the most relevant is the one that is below (you may have to page down and find a multiple choice box to get to the information you want elsewhere on this site. Happy digging, pounding, or whatever.

Also, either Mother Earth News or Backwoods Home(?) had an article in, I believe, their june issue on how to build an inexpensive hand well pump that would lift more than 25'. It used a rod and flapper valve inside of PVC tubing.






Link:   wells for handpumps 

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 08-30-2000, 07:44 Post: 19282
Jerri Neese



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 Pitcher Pump Water Well

Casey,
I have visited a number of these before to devise a best method for this well. However, thank you very much as I am sure this information will be very benefical to many. What you have done is another example of why this board is so great. Everyone here seems to be more than willing to give of their time to assist others and that is a very noble trait.

Again thanks, Jerri






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 08-30-2000, 07:56 Post: 19284
TomG

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 Pitcher Pump Water Well

I'm a bit perplexed. From the post, I guess that a dug well isn't there now. The idea seems to be sinking a 2" pipe down 25' and putting a pump on it. Maybe the idea is to put a smaller feed line through a 2" pipe to provide venting. The problem I see is that a 2" pipe isn't going to hold much water, especially if the nominal surface water table is down 10' or so and there is a feed line within the 2" line. I don't think many surface water tables are very active so I wouldn't expect a casing to re-fill very fast. For comparison, the dug well at our camp is 15' deep. The spring water table is 3.5' but the water summer water table is around 10' without any use. With use, the well more or less recovers over-night. However, the well is a 30" casing so we didn't run it dry often.

You may know more about pitcher pumps than I (we replaced an electric pump with a pitcher pump this summer at our camp). However, here are some comments about pitcher pumps. Some manufacturers don't claim their pumps will lift water as high as 25'--especially after some wear on the gaskets I guess. At least one manufacture states that pitcher pumps aren't suitable for outdoor use. I'm not sure whether the reason is for health or winter weather reasons.

I installed a foot valve on the feed line so the pump wouldn't have to be primed very often. However, the foot valve holds water in the pump, which rusts the pitcher. We got a half-bucket of rust each time we drew water. I'm just as happy the foot valve failed after short service. I figure that it would have to come off before winter anyway.

Although I passed along some manufacturer statements about pitcher pumps, the comments sound strange to me. I believe the standard traditional farm pump is a pitcher type. I believe my parents and all my cousins grew up with these pumps, and the pumps were used year around. I don't think anybody died from the water or went thirsty during the winter, and their well casings were even open. My wife found several old brass pressure hand pumps that we may be able to fix. These pumps can be used to pump water above the well head and may also be better for outdoor use. If I can fix one, I'll probably use it to pump water from a cistern to an overhead barrel for showers.






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 08-30-2000, 10:17 Post: 19289
Murf

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 Pitcher Pump Water Well

Thomas, if you have a reasonable supply (even tanks) nearby just put the first section down (with a sand point on it) and then hook a pump to it, pump water down-hole for a few minutes which will erode the soil below the point, then push down with the loader or hoe and start the process all over again. We do this regularly, if it is not clay or rock, 25' should not take very long at all, if it is sand, I would say you should be able to do it in an hour or so, provided you have enough water. Besides this way the water does the hard work for you....Best of luck.






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 00-00-0000, 00:00 Post: 19351
Thomas M. Meza



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 Pitcher Pump Water Well

Murf:

Do you think a 2 inch pipe can be sledge driven? I have a large electric demolition hammer, I was thinking of welding and inverted steel cup-like fitting to a hex shaft that fit the electric hammer and trying to power drive the pipe into the ground. I would like to get down to 25 feet. Any comments.

Thomas






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 09-01-2000, 09:03 Post: 19355
Jerri Neese



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Tom, yes this is a way. You will need a driven point and like Murf had mentioned if you have some water to soften the soil will help. I have attached a web page dealing with this type installation. Kudos to the fellow who put this page together, I believe you will find it helpful.
Jerri






Link:   An inepensive do it yourself waterwell 

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Projects Forum

Thread 19242 Filter by Poster:
CaseyR 1 | Jerri Neese 3 | Murf 1 | Thomas M. Meza 2 | TomG 1 |




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