Driving Fence Posts: Tractor Projects  -- General Tractor Discussion Forum and Review Driving Fence Posts: Tractor Projects -- General Tractor Discussion Forum

  parts   |   manuals   |   discussion   |   photos   |   podcast   |   reviews   |   specs   |   dealers   |   classifieds   |   contact   |   faq   |   myProfile   |   home          Login Now | Sign Up


FAQ:   What is a tractor?

Forum Index
New As Posted | Active Subjects



www.emerichsales.com - New & Used Equipment
          View Tractors For Sale!


www.partsbynet.com - Lawn and Garden Equipment Parts


Bernardsville Landscape Lighting
Click to Post a New Message!

Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Projects Forum

Page [ 1 ] | 2 | | Next >>
Reply | Pop Up Window Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo
 05-09-2008, 02:06 Post: 153567
whstein



Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver Island
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 10
 Driving Fence Posts

I have just bought my first tractor - a Kubota B26 to go with 6 acres of partly unfenced land. One of my first projects will be to build a fence approximately 1200' long. I am thinking of a 4' high fence with 6' metal posts - the "I" beam type. I am wondering if I will need to drill post holes (and buy an auger) or if it is realistic to think I can set the posts by forcing them down with the backhoe. I have seen this done with bigger post and bigger machines but wonder if the B26 will do the job. The soil is mostly former river bottom and not full of rocks. Thanks for your comments. Wally Stein






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-09-2008, 09:07 Post: 153573
auerbach



View my Photos

View my Photos  Pics
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West of Toronto
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 2168
 Driving Fence Posts

If there's a hoe, I trust there's a FEL too, and presumably your rig is at least as big as my 22HP one.

I use a helper to hold the post, and the loader bucket to gingerly push it down. If I have to do it on my own I set the post with a sledge and then push it.

I use posts with a "T" cross-section. Before buying the posts, check on what they sell to attach the fencing. You could buy a sample of different posts and try them.

For when it hits a rock and bends from the push, I keep a fairly thin but strong chain on hand (slip-hook one end, grab-hook on other), pull it up with the bucket and retry a few inches away.

It will take a few to get the hang of it. Depending on what works, you can weight the bucket for a stronger push, or use the bucket like a pile driver. You usually have to move the tractor a few inches as the post goes down.

Sometimes you can't get the tractor to the site, so I also have a sledge and a post-hole driver. If you have a helper, outfit with hard hat, safety goggles, gloves, and maybe a long pair of grips so his hand is not in harm's way.






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-09-2008, 15:31 Post: 153580
harvey



View my Photos

View my Photos  Pics
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Moravia, NY
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 1525
 Driving Fence Posts

Easiest way to drive steel is a pipe with a heavy drive cap and 2 handles and hammer them down. You could rent a larger impact hammer like they use to drive ground rods in hard soil. Just need generator to run.






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-09-2008, 16:15 Post: 153581
Murf

TP Contributor

View my Photos

View my Photos  Pics
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 7006

2
Filter by User
 Driving Fence Posts

Wally, I don't know what part of the island you're on, but every part of it I've seen has as much rock as soil under the grass.

If your place is like that then forget about pushing them in with the tractor, they will just fold when you hit a rock.

Harvey has the right idea. Get a slide hammer type of pipe setup and a strong young kid to swing it.

I've made scads of them over the years, just take 2' of heavy wall pipe a little larger than the size of posts you plan on using and weld a piece of heavy plate over one end as a cap and a long 'U' shaped handle down each side. Slide it over the end of the post and by hoisting it up and slamming it down the posts go in real easy.

Best of luck.






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-09-2008, 19:54 Post: 153587
hardwood

TP Contributor

Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: iowa
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 3582
 Driving Fence Posts

Murf; You are correct on how to drive a "T" post with the heavy pipe with the cap and the handles on the side. I even have a store bought one, not homemade for Heaven's sake we go first class around here. The loader push in deal with a bucket full of dirt for more push just never worked real good even without rocks. You sound like you even enjoy pounding in posts, has someonme been sneaking something into your coffee lately?






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-10-2008, 20:05 Post: 153607
earthwrks

TP Contributor

View my Photos

View my Photos  Pics
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 3853

2
Filter by User
 Driving Fence Posts

Even spaced at 10 feet apart that's still 120 posts plus braces.

I'd be tempted to use a portable gas-driven drill or 1/2" electric drill (and generator) with a small dirt auger (the type sprinkler and fence guys use) or even a masonry bit to make a pilot hole then hit once or twice with a slide hammer/pounder. Of course, I never have dependable help around so I laways have to look for ways to do it myself and quickly, and cheaply.

As far as using the bucket--loaded or not--to push the posts in, even with my big skid steer with about 3000lb. of wet clay and the weight of the bucket, plus the machine's available downpressure--I could only force them about 6" in mildly moist clay.






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-11-2008, 09:36 Post: 153617
candoarms



View my Photos

View my Photos  Pics
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: North Dakota
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 1929

2
Filter by User
 Driving Fence Posts

Whstein,

I'd look into renting a hydraulic fence post driver. You won't believe how easy it is until you try it. It takes about a minute to drive a post with one of these things, and with almost no effort. Even rocks are no problem, as the rocks simply vibrate out of the way.

Joel






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-11-2008, 13:14 Post: 153627
earthwrks

TP Contributor

View my Photos

View my Photos  Pics
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 3853

2
Filter by User
 Driving Fence Posts

I was going to mention Joel's suggestion, but unless the pounder is the type that clamps to the side of the post, lifting the pounder can get real annoying not to mention tiring. You'd have to either ride in the bucket and operate the pounder, or stand on a ladder to reach the controls.

I have a 67lb.-class hydraulic pavement breaker that takes a 1-1/8" shank/tool/bit. I wonder if it would slide over the post? Or would it even have enough punch to drive a T-post?






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-12-2008, 08:13 Post: 153639
candoarms



View my Photos

View my Photos  Pics
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: North Dakota
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 1929

2
Filter by User
 Driving Fence Posts

Earthwrks,

The hydraulic fence post drivers are pretty heavy. They weigh about 60 pounds. It works best to suspend the driver from the loader bucket using a heavy rubber strap. No lifting is required.

The best way to do this is to start each post with a hand operated post driver. Once they are all in place, and started straight, they can then be driven completely in using the hydraulic driver.

I believe your pavement breaker would work just fine.

Here's what I'm referring to. See the link below.

Joel






Link:   Hydraulic Post Driver 

Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

 05-12-2008, 12:38 Post: 153646
Murf

TP Contributor

View my Photos

View my Photos  Pics
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 7006

2
Filter by User
 Driving Fence Posts

Frank, "You sound like you even enjoy pounding in posts"? No chance, not any more, these days 'Manual Labor' is the Mexican guy I hire to do it for me. Wink yeah right

EW, it will work, BUT, you will never it get it back off. The hammering will mushroom the T-bar into the head of the breaker. Don't ask how I know!!! You need a "driver cup" to go on it in place of the bit, it's a (as the name suggests) hardened steel cup with the proper shank to lock into your breaker, but the key is it has a bell-mouthed cup so as the steel bar mushrooms it forces itself out instead of trapping itself in there.

Best of luck.






Reply to PostReply | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo




Bookmarks: Digg It | Del.icio.us | Technorati | Furl | Stumble This

Reply | Pop Up Window Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo


Page [ 1 ] | 2 | | Next >>

Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Projects Forum

Thread 153567 Filter by Poster:
auerbach 1 | bvance 1 | candoarms 2 | earthwrks 2 | hardwood 1 | harvey 1 | Murf 2 | whstein 1 | yooperpete 1 |




Most Viewed

+ Hydraulic Top Link
+ Digging farm pond
+ Info on Honda 6522 Compact Tractor
+ Magnatrac Crawler Review
+ Farm Bridge over seasonal creek
+ Home made cab
+ Calculating hydraulic tonnage rating
+ Cub Cadet Lo-Boy 185
+ Temporary patch to hydraulic line?
+ Price Check Kubota L235

Most Discussion

+ Hydraulic Top Link
+ Rear Log Spliter Build Project
+ Small Stump Suggestions?
+ Liters to cubic inches.
+ Flipping-Tractors
+ TRACKS COME OFF
+ Anyone ever use a ROPS?
+ Hydraulic sawmill carriage
+ Attempting to install a well
+ Food plot secrets

Newest Topics

+ pto shaft mounted pump
+ 240 Massey
+ pto sprayer pump s volume
+ Hydraulics Take the quiz
+ New Holland 8260 Shuttle Problems
+ rear remote hydraulic control system
+ Restoring 1910 for my property
+ Rear Log Splitter Build Project Part 2
+ Rear Log Spliter Build Project Part 1
+ Things you can use your Tractor for







Turbochargers for Tractors and Industrial Machines
Cab Glass for Tractors and Industrial Machines

Alternators for Tractors and Industrial Machines
Radiators for Tractors and Industrial Machines

Driveline Components for Tractors and Industrial Machines
Starter Motors for Tractors and Industrial Machines