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greenhornet
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 24 Ozark Mountains
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2003-07-29          60349

I have just acquired a Ford 1910 with a 770B loader. Can anyone tell me the difference between the 770B and the 770A loader? Does anyone know the permissible lift weight? Or where I can find this information. A couple of days ago I tried to lift a large rock(too big for me to lift manually, but I thought within the limits of the loader)and now the bucket pivots very slowly and the loader raises whether I move the joy stick backwards or forwards. What is my problem other than perhaps not knowing how to use a loader? If I barely nurse the lever forward, the loader will lower, it I push the lever fully forward the loader lifts. What do I need to look at? I am new to the tractor, the loader, and the CTB.

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Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2003-07-31          60532

I do believe you have a bad valve. You have a couple of blown o-rings. ....

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greenhornet
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 24 Ozark Mountains
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2003-07-31          60596

Thanks for the response Art. After letting it set for 24 hrs. it worked fine and has since. Do you have any idea about how much weight it should handle? If I try to lift too much, will it just not lift it, or will I blow some seals etc? I didn't know there was a 770A loader until I read where someone had mentioned one in the loader discussion. ....

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Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2003-08-01          60600

I'm not a wizard on Ford but I'll lay odds on it that they put a B on it when they made it fit more tractors or changed an option. You do still have a problem as what you descrided doesn't heal itself. You might have allowed it to remove the air and reseal temporarily but hang on as it will happen again. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-08-01          60626

My 1710 with an Allied 195 loader is rated at 800-lbs. full-height. A 1910 is probably greater. A dealer should be able to come up with the specs or they might be on the NH site. Ratings are on the JD site even if they are a bit hard to find.

I'm with Art and things usually aren't self-healing, and I hear 'mixed up movements' and I think of a blown valve. There are a couple of possibilities though. I did cure some hydraulic oddities by changing hydraulic oil and filter after I got my used 1710. Could have been small obstructions.

What you describe also is generally consistent with pump suction line problems. A clogged filter will heat and froth the oil, which will result in deteriorating performance that goes away after the oil sits and cools. I haven't heard of that resulting in the generally mix-up of controls and movements though but I suppose it's possible. A sticking relief valve might do it too but again there's the question of the mixed up controls.

I'd change the oil and filter on general principal and then see what happens. I believe the factory valve and linkage is the same for the entire '10-series compacts and I might be able to help with valve or linkage questions. Even if I haven't been into one and they aren't covered in my repair manual, I do have parts diagrams in my parts manual. However, there are three different assemblies depending on year of production.
....

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greenhornet
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 24 Ozark Mountains
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2003-08-01          60665

Thanks for the input. The tractor has a zero-hour engine so I presume the engine oil filter is new, but I have been eyeing the hydraulic filter since it probably wasn't replaced. Although the transmission oil looks very clear, clear enough that it is hard to see on the dip stick. Is it important to use the specified Ford oil or is it alright to use other hydraulic oil? Is it just a matter of reading the specs on the container? By the way the tractor does have new hoses on the fel. They were replace as the others were too short to remove the loader. ....

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greenhornet
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 24 Ozark Mountains
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2003-08-01          60668

Is replacing the o-rings a simple process that anyone who knows which end of a wrench to pick up can do? Or is there something tricky that is better left to a pro? ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-08-02          60734

Hydraulic/TX oil is pretty universal stuff and Ford/NH 134D is sort of a standard. Most anything rated as transmission/hydraulic oil should work OK (with slight risk I suppose). I think box stores are even selling tractor oil now and they probably have x-ref tables. I've been mixing and matching NH F200 with a similar AGCO oil for about 3 years without incident. F200 is a multi-grade version of 134D. It gets real cold here.

I don't think I'd tear into the valve quite yet. I haven't opened a valve body myself 'cause my hydraulics just keep working but I wouldn't hesitate to do the work myself. If you decide to, there are about 30 parts in the valve body so there's quite a bit to keep track of. However, springs and parts shouldn't fly all over the place when the body is open. An exploded parts diagram would be helpful. In general, parts that come off one valve section should go back on the same one. Oil is wiped onto o-rings before they're installed.

What I'd do is change the filter and wait to see if it happens again before tearing into anything. There's a chance that some junk in the new lines caused the problem and eventually went through the system. If the loader does crap out again, I'd check the oil to see if it's hot or frothy and if the 3ph is weak as well.
....

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greenhornet
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 24 Ozark Mountains
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2003-08-04          60869

Thanks Tom. I used the loader to move some dirt Sat. eve. and it worked well. Our dirt is red clay with an ample supply of rocks. Digging a hole is the most miserable job you can do here. We had a 2"+ rain Thur and Fri which softened the dirt enought it could be handled. I was scooping the raised mounds over geo-thermal trenches to level the ground preparatory to preping for black dirt. The loader would have had a lot of pressure on it and it worked well. Now I have a pile of dirt to deal with. I'll add more to it tomorrow.

As long as it works this well I'll not do anything to the system yet. I need to order a shop and parts manual as well as a manual for the loader.

Thanks for the input. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-08-04          60888

Happy it's working. If you don't already know this, I'd make sure the 3ph isn't in lift mode when using the loader--especially if a one return hose type loader valve. ....

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greenhornet
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 24 Ozark Mountains
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2003-08-04          60934

When you say lift mode, do you mean actually raising the 3ph at the same time as actuating the fel or am I missing something here? ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-08-05          60963

I think I was guilty of taking a random poke at the subject. I'm still with Art and don't really trust self-healing problems. Well, then I've had a few so I have to keep in mind that coincidence never happens except when it does. I keep thinking that maybe there's something else going on here.

In most hook ups when the loader and 3ph are operated at the same time the 3ph simply stops lifting. The loader return flow goes on the 3ph and operation of the loader cuts off the flow. However, with a single return hose type loader valve, loader exhaust oil goes back into the high-pressure line. If the 3ph is in lift mode oil return to the reservoir is blocked and the pump then has to work against the loader as well as the 3ph load. Exhaust oil is the oil displaced from the passive side of the loader cylinders when the loader moves. Oil is on both sides of the piston and the exhaust oil has to have a path to go somewhere when the loader moves.

Anyway, something like that could cause a loader to move very slowly but it wouldn't account for the confused motion described. Don't know, it was just a random thought. No damage would result to a system from operating both the loader and 3ph at the same time as long as the loader valve is power beyond rated.

....

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