the right machine tool: Loaders  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review the right machine tool: Loaders -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 09-27-2006, 20:47 Post: 135511
brokenarrow



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 the right machine tool

Can't figure out where this should go exactly so it goes here for now.
Im going to clear an acre of land to prepaire for a house sight. This acre is made up of pretty small soft wood trees. After further inspection the majority of the tree's will be under 5 inch dia. I was told by a guy what he would do but I dont think its a great idea for my tractor.
He said he would rent a skid steer with a grapple bucket, since this area is pretty sandy, he said I should be able to push most of the trees over? Then he said, "wait, you have a bucket on your tractor? why not use that instead of renting a skid steer?"
If this works like he thinks it should I feel I will be putting alot of undue forces on the arms, even if I am real careful on getting it in the middle I was thinking maybe I should NOT use my tractor like this?????
What do you all think? Spend the money and hire and or rent a skid steer for this job, or use my tc40?
Tank-a-u-verymuch






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 09-27-2006, 21:27 Post: 135513
kwschumm



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Are they deep rooted trees? I can tell you that I wouldn't have any problem pushing a 5" douglas fir over with my JD 4310. I've done it a few times by accident and didn't even know it was happening.






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 09-27-2006, 22:16 Post: 135515
JasonR



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 the right machine tool

I've cleared small trees without much effort using my JD 4110.

As far as damaging your tractor, just be careful. (Watch out for falling trees!) If you can't push them over somewhat easily, then (in my opinion) you'll need a different machine. Example - if you're running your tractor at full speed into the trees, and they're not giving, you'll have potential damage.

As far as force on the loader arms - when you scrape the ground and eventually can't push anymore, you're exerting a similar amount of force (statically) - you just need to watch out for the moving forces.

Someone else might have a better 'formula' for how fast you want to be moving when you attempt to knock the trees down.

- Jason






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 09-27-2006, 22:29 Post: 135516
kwschumm



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Never hit a tree with a running start. There's too much shock load and you're just asking to blow a seal that way. Ease into it and push and you'll probably be surprised how easy they go over. Remember, leverage is your friend so have the bucket a few feet up.

Edit: I should probably mention that my heavy duty bucket has never bent doing this but standard buckets aren't as strong.






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 09-28-2006, 08:25 Post: 135524
Murf

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If you look at my picture # 18 you will see the 'utility' frame I made for my machine. I couldn't begin to guess how many trees that frame has uprooted.

I start by pushing VERY slowly in low range, then once I have pushed it right over and flat onto the ground, I go around to the far side, stand it up and go right over again the opposite way. I repeat this again 90° to the direction I started with. After all 4 pushes a chain around the base of the tree about 4 or 5 passes is hitched to the frame and it lifts right out, usually with very little dirt left on the stump. A few quick shakes with the FEL usually drops most of the remaining dirt, then it can be carried to the brush pile on the forks later.

In sandy soil, like at my house, I can yank a 12" conifer stump straight up with my JCB TLB, but it is a MUCH larger machine too.

If you go slowly, take time to think it out, and don't try to apply much force 90° to a piece of steel, like the bucket bottom, you should be fine.

One point of advice though, leverage is your friend, do not cut the trees down, then try to remove the stump. Limb then as best you can, then push against the tree trunk up as high as you can get before the tree gets too small to take the weight, 6' maybe. I usually try to get the far end of the FEL nearly level with the ground. This amplifies your push against the stump considerably.

Finally if this doesn't work, use an old farmers trick, one from back when they bucked stumps by horse!! Get either as large a tractor rim (they used to use big wooden wheels) as you can, or a big strong steel pipe V-shaped frame. The rim works best. Roll the rim right up to the stump so that it is pointing straght at it, then wrap a chain around the stump 4 or 5 passes and hitch back to itself, then pass the rest of the chain up and over the rim, and out to the tractor or a big truck, then slowly start to pull, the rim ascts as a fulcrum and converts the pull on the chain into upwards force. I've pulled out some pretty large stumps this way with my truck. BTW, thei method works really well for lifting stones out of holes too.

Best of luck.






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 09-28-2006, 21:59 Post: 135542
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Awesome reply's. I guess you all answered my question about racking the bucket. I need to stop being such a pansie and treat my tractor a bit more like a work horse that it really is? Where I have a hard time with understanding how this will work is this. All my experiances with trees has been in a heavy clay soil. When roots get under that stuff they need to be snapped or cut in order for them to let loose of a tree. I have never had the opportunity to mess with trees or brush in the "sandy" soil that my new property is in. My buddy was talking like it was no big deal to clear an acre down there. I on the other hand was/am about to hire it out just cause it will take so damm long. Sounds like it will go pretty fast though>?
At the same time that this will be fun and interesting (trying to get a full acre of heavy woods into a lawn quality open sapce) I am a bit flushed with overwhelmingness,. (If you can understand me anyways) Laughing out loud>

BTW, Sure makes you appreciate what the old farmers back in the 20's had to go thru to break more farm land with the equipment they had!!!!!!






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 09-28-2006, 22:08 Post: 135543
kwschumm



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We have heavy clay. When it's real dry it's slightly more work but when it's soggy the trees almost fall over on their own (and sometimes they do but never the ones that need to be taken out). We still chainsaw most of the ones that we take out. Less of a mess and easier to feed 'em into the chipper.






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 09-28-2006, 22:34 Post: 135546
earthwrks

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I'd save the tractor and rent a skid steer on steel or rubber tracks. I have dug numerous lob Laughing out loudly pines with 4-6' tap roots and two feet across, Live oaks and water oaks, red oaks, all of which have either deep or wide roots using just a skid steer with pallet forks---I can dig a Red oak stump that's 24" caliper in about 10-20 minutes that way. Other trees literally pop out with forks--you'd be amazed what they will do. Set them about 8" apart and stab-cut the roots or slide the forks fully under the stump or full tree and simultaneusly lift, drive forward and tilt the forks---traction is key. If that doesn't work the first time, back up a few feet (which will double the leverage), and repeat. The grapple bucket (which I also use) is okay but takes more effort. I have pulled up to 5" lob Laughing out loudlys out but the tree has to bend over too in order to use the grapple.

Another way is to use a regular dirt bucket on again the same big tracked bobcat and tilt the bucket down slightly, drive into the tree about 5-6' up and use traction and lift to push the tree over. I have pushed some very big trees over this way.

Broken, see! Here's the perfect reason you need that LS 180!






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 10-01-2006, 15:45 Post: 135608
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I can taste it Earthwks. With out a dought I will be looking for something in the near future.
Now that the leaves are ready to fall and I can see better I will be starting to work on the land. Calling a buddy who is licensed to perk test. Need to pick out a few spots where we would like to build and see if they will perk or not. ASA I have that done I will be clearing land. About that point I will know whether I can get her done fast enough or not.
There is alot that needs or may need to be done. Not only clearing the land but since this is a valley (so to speak) I may need to re-arrange the ground down there, possibly bring in dirt if need be. Since I will hire a dozer to finish grade my trails that need to be put in, at the same time I will have him do the same to my future driveway and while he is there if the open lot needs any work he can get that done also. I just want the area clear before I hire him to come in cause I have seen what a dozer can leave for a mess if he pushes off any of the garbage trees.
Thanks for the input guys






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 10-03-2006, 09:50 Post: 135660
MacDaddy



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 the right machine tool

As much as I enjoy using my JD4310, I think that I would hire this one out. I agree that it could definitely be done, but how much time do you have? Even if you can up-root the trees, that’s a hell of a lot of back-and forth to the brush pile. And after the 5-in trees are gone, you’re still left with a pretty scabby site. A small dozer could knock it off in an afternoon, and would have your entire site rough-graded in the process. Also, the dozer will neatly stockpile the topsoil that will be stripped from the immediate area around your house. Later, you can go back through with your box-blade and/or rake and finish grade the site yourself in preparation for planting grass. JMO. Good Luck.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Loaders Forum

Thread 135511 Filter by Poster:
brokenarrow 3 | bvinduck 1 | earthwrks 4 | JasonR 1 | juneau 2 | kwschumm 3 | MacDaddy 1 | MIFarmin 2 | Murf 3 |




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