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 03-25-2004, 20:31 Post: 81158
brokenarrow



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 c tine one row cultivators?

Anyone ever use this? It looks very light? Do you use this with the 3 point powered downward? I will be breaking a few acres this fall after several bouts with round up, my soil is tough stuff and am looking for something to loosen up the top 5-6" before disking. Do you think the box blade with the scarifers down would work in the same way or maybe even better? I was looking at the KK cultivator and it is only a one row? Thanks again






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 03-25-2004, 21:49 Post: 81170
ksmmoto



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 c tine one row cultivators?

Hello brokenarrow,

It will just ride up on hard soil. I own one and it works great if the ground is soft. I used it to culivate the garden rows with the inside two shanks removed (I took out some corn with them on)!

Maybe a KK sub soiler would work, I have one and it digs 12" to 14" deep. Only one shank, will take a while.

By the way, this is my first post to TP after lurking for the winter. Once I get started it may be hard to stop!!

ksmmoto






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 03-25-2004, 22:06 Post: 81171
loghouse95



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 c tine one row cultivators?

Your best bet is to plow it first.. A cultivator will not do you much good as that is not its made for... good luck






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 03-26-2004, 06:37 Post: 81185
plots1

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 c tine one row cultivators?

Brokenarrow the box blade method will work great to tear out the sod and loosen the soil plunty enuf to where a good disking will have you ready to plant something.that is how I do my plots and have had real good success.My picture 10 shows what you can achieve using this method. the sod in that area was real thick that I worked up but as you will see with a little time it can be done up nice.






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 03-26-2004, 20:39 Post: 81267
brokenarrow



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 c tine one row cultivators?

Plots1
Thats what I like to hear!! I have never used a box blade but by the looks of it I thought it would do a great job of ripping up old hay fields. (Although I did not know if it would work or not for sure) So I am real glad to hear and see what you acomplish with it. I am planning on killing off all the vegitation in two of the fields before hitting it with the box blade. I have a plow but as you know here in North western Wisconsin Rocks grow every year very well, and everytime you plow it brings up atleast a half week of picking. This box blade may be the perfect tool since I really only need to go down 4-5 inches. 8" would be ideal but a bit less will be fine.
So how many passes do you need to make when using this on a new field? What would be your process?
Your 790, is it fwd? If I done my homework right it is around 27hp? (never could figure out why Deer has all these funky numbers for a tractor?)Laughing out loud. Anyway I see you have a 5ft box blade. I am going to buy one tomarroo, was thinking about the 6 footer, you recomend a heavy duty one or will the standard do? Thanks again to all of you here!






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 03-27-2004, 07:51 Post: 81288
plots1

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 c tine one row cultivators?

My 790 is 30 horse FWD(bought the year before HP change)And I think my Box Scraper is just standard duty. I did the area in a cross pattern to tear away sod then I just disk the fire out of it.I would think your 40 HP would handle a 6 footer fine beings my 30 does well with the 5 footer.That plot in pic 10 took about 4 hours to prepare and it's just a tic under an acre,About 3 hours tearing away sod and an hour disking.Like I said with some time you can make it happen. Beings you sprayed your area first your time will be cut in half, the sod was very thick in the area I worked.






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 03-27-2004, 20:33 Post: 81345
brokenarrow



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 c tine one row cultivators?

Should I consider a fixed tailgate or a floating hinged tail gate for my scraper? Also, I see they have 1/2" and 1/4" side boards (heavy duty and standard duty) Has anyone here had bad luck with the standard duty, I would assume I will be puttin it thru some pretty tough stuff out in the fields (rocks and some roots) Dont know if the cost would be justified going heavy duty though since I dont know if what I am planning on puttin it thru is really pushing a standard duty or not? Any help would be appreciated?
Thanks






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 03-27-2004, 21:08 Post: 81353
Peters

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 c tine one row cultivators?

The weight of the box blade causes it to cut. If the box blade is too light you have to add weight to it. It is better to have the weight in the blade construction than in a box of rocks on the top as it is less likely to get damaged.






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 03-27-2004, 22:02 Post: 81361
brokenarrow



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 c tine one row cultivators?

Peters
One of my main jobs for the box blade would be to start loosening up the sod and soil in the top 7" or so give/take a few. Like I said before plowing is not in my near future since most of my planting would be for wildlife and not crop production the fields dont need to be perfect. Just by the looks of a bb it seems like it would be ideal for what Plots1 said he uses it for. I guess I dont know the functions of back plate. It sounds like if it is FIXED it would tend to keep the scrap and junk in the box area longer vs a hinged plat(the later sounds like it would let the junk flow out) Am I seeing this correct? Please correct me if not. That leads me back to the 1/4" side plate vs 1/2". I know 1/4" steel plate is pretty darn tough but at the same time, it's not 1/2"? Does the side plates take a beating or are they more for adding weight? A guy could always re inforce the sides with anouther plate of 1/4" for next to nothing (since I have plenty access to 1/4" diamond plate for no cost to me.
Sorry if I seem like I am beating a dead deer in the road (infront of my truck) Laughing out loud. I am really at wits end here, I am spending way more than I want although everytime I upgrade I know it is for the rest of my life and probably well worth it. I would wait awhile to buy the best if I could but I need to get my farming impliments in a ground engageing mode soon. Thanks






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 03-28-2004, 06:21 Post: 81378
TomG

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 c tine one row cultivators?

I think thicker side-plates provide stronger butt-joint welds. As mentioned the extra weight also is good.

Hinged rear cutters are most useful in fine landscaping and grading work. From the description of the work, a fixed cutter model should work just fine. Hinged ones allow heavier cuts and a wider range of blade angle. Fixed models can't make very fine cuts because the box rolls onto its rear cutter and lifts the front cutter off the ground. On the other hand I want my fixed model to do that since I use it for compacting pit-run. I've heard that some hinged models can lock the rear cutter in place so maybe that's the best of both worlds.

To spread with a box, the top-link is extended so the front cutter edge is lifted off the ground. Pressure from materiel under the blade lifts the box a bit and allows material to pass underneath. I have heard that hinged one spread a bit better so maybe the consequence is that they don't drag material quite so well.

I've taken live sod off garden plots with my scarifiers OK with some chunks left behind. I was still left with the question of what to do with the sod. I'm not sure that killing it first would have made a great difference.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Implements Forum

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