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 09-02-1999, 00:00 Post: 7594
Rob



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 specs on a weight box

Several weeks back I ran across a great web site that gave several different plans for building a "home made" weight box that is compatible with a 3 pt. hitch. Well, I've slept since then and cannot locate it again. Does this ring a bell for anyone or does anyone have any good plans they want to share about a weight box? Much appreciated...






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 09-02-1999, 00:00 Post: 7607
Mike S.



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 specs on a weight box

Try the following URL: http://www.his.com/~msimpson/tractor/hacker.htm






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 09-03-1999, 00:00 Post: 7610
Keith



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 specs on a weight box

A real easy way to make a weight box is to take an old, beatup four or five foot box blade, remove the tines if it has any, turn it upside down, and weld on a steel plate (about 1/4" thickness is all you need) across the bottom of it. You might then also want to weld in a piece or two of 1/2" rebar inside the middle of the box to help strengthen the concrete when you pour it. Then cut a piece of plywood (or some boards) to fill in the open front (or you can weld more steel plating here for a nicer look) of the box. You should have a big empty box at this point. All you have to do then is lay in some heavy gauge plastic sheeting to seal up any leaks/gaps and pour in the wet concrete. Let it harden up, then you have a nice weight box ready to go. Considering you can buy a new 4 foot boxblade for about $240 bucks (I see the cheaper ones at this price quite frequently) this would be a fairly cost effective way to build your own weight box. I think a JD weight box is about $700 bucks!! If you can find an old, used box blade for about $150, all the better. The big advantage to doing it this way means it comes all ready to hook up to your tractor so you don't have to build the three point hook up from scratch. Keith






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 09-03-1999, 00:00 Post: 7612
Ted



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 specs on a weight box

Slickest one I've seen was a plastic garbage can, with a hole just large enough in each side for a draw-bar to be poked through, fill with concrete & ta-da!! Adjust height of draw-bar & concrete for desired weight and balance, no need for a top link, gravity works fine, just like a pendulum. Trim excess plastic off above concrete with sharp knife afterwards. Total cost, probably under $50.00......






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 09-03-1999, 00:00 Post: 7614
Mike S.



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 specs on a weight box

I may be incorrect, but I believe that the price of a JD ballast box is about $180 not including the cost of the ballast materials of choice.Mike S.






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 09-03-1999, 00:00 Post: 7619
MichaelSnyder

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 specs on a weight box

Mike,You are correct, I paid $175 for our 4100. I'm guessing they make slightly larger ones for the bigger tractors, but can't imagine the price would exceed 225-250 at most. BTW. I really like Keith's idea of using an old box blade filled w/concrete. Or, not exactly inexpensive, but if you use or need a liquid sprayer, just fill it with water. Kind of a duel purpose implement. I think water is 8lbs per gallon, so even the small 55 gallon sprayers will yield 440lbs in water weight alone. Just a thought:0)






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 09-03-1999, 00:00 Post: 7629
PaulB



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 specs on a weight box

Funny you should mention the sprayer idea. Just today I started browsing the TSC web site looking for a sprayer to wet down my riding ring. What powers these things? Is there an electrical hookup to my tractor, and if so is it hard to wire it in? My guess would be to hook into the tailights, right? If so, does that mean it will work only if my lights are on? The salesman at TSC I am sure can answer these questions, but its 7pm now and they are closed.thanks,Paul






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 09-07-1999, 00:00 Post: 7710
MichaelSnyder

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Paul,I'm sure you could wire the pump to the tailights. IMHO, thats the lazy man's way. And can create a few additional problems. First, the fuse link probably won't handle the increase in load, (2)wire gauge was designed to be used "only" with the lights currently attached. Lastly, two switches to mess with. IMHO, wire is inexpensive, it's better to leave the factory wire harness "untouched", especially if you don't know what wires go where. It is much easier/safer to buy: (1) 10' feet of yellow & black wire. BTY,yellow denotes 12vDC,black=DC ground (2) bag of black or color matching wire ties, (3)two crimp connectors for attachment to your battery terminals,(4) a water resistant fuse link, (5) water resistant connector(s), (6) maybe a dash mount switch. Run all of this through the frame of your unit, all the way to the rear. Now you have a quick "pluggable" attachment to your battery for "any" 12v DC device. It is recommended to place the fuse link within 6"-12" of the battery terminal, further eliminating fire issues related to "wire shorts".Now you only have to chase two wires if ever a problem. peace of mind, knowing the wire gauge is heavy enough. Also nice to know that you can remove this link, and no trace of "splices/cuts/connectors will remain for others to frown upon. BTY, the fuse rating should be double the load (Amps) rating of the pump.Gotta go to a second posting to finish.






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 09-07-1999, 00:00 Post: 7711
MichaelSnyder

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 specs on a weight box

Lastly Paul,You might be a bit disappointed with just a sprayer to wet down a riding ring. Sprayers normally "mist", not soak. I would buy a few feet of 2" PVC pipe, cut it in equal halves, insert a "T" in the middle. Then drill 1/8" holes every 1"-2" in a straight line on the bottom of the pipe Bar. then connect the T to the drain of the tank, plus a ball valve to shut off the water. Remember: you can always drill larger holes if 1/8" doesn't create the effect you want. I am pretty sure everything I mentioned in these two posting can be purchased at a TSC or Farm & Home store. Electric project will probably run about $20-$30, mainly because of the water resistant fuse link and plugs. PVC Project will probably be in the same range, give or take the quality of components you buy.Hope this helped at least a little:0)






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 09-08-1999, 00:00 Post: 7736
PaulB



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mls - it helped a great deal, thank you very much. With your pvc pipe idea, how about forgeting the sprayer tank completely, and rigging up a simple 55 gallon drum? Maybe have a frame welded to mount to the 3 point and cradle the drum, then a ball valve and T pipe system as you described? I am not, by nature, a "tinkerer", but if you think the system would work I would give it a try.thanks again for your kind advicePaul






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Implements Forum

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