Landscape rake gauge wheels: Tractor Implements  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Landscape rake gauge wheels: Tractor Implements -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 04-29-2010, 21:27 Post: 170447
laboiserie



Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Durham, Maine
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Posts: 7
 Landscape rake gauge wheels

Does anybody ever use a landscape rake with gauge wheels and putting the wheels in front of the rake rather than behind? Seems to be much more controllable when the wheels are in front of the rake. with the wheels in back, I can't seem to be able to prevent it from digging in too aggressively. With the wheels in front with adjusting the top link, I can easily control it. Am I the only one doing this or do others do this also?






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 04-29-2010, 23:17 Post: 170451
ronald65



Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Montana
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Posts: 107
 Landscape rake gauge wheels

Hi; I think you a fooling yourself.with the wheels in front of the rake you have defeated the premise .picture a road grader vs a blade on the 3 point( what you have with wheels in front of rake) when front of tractor goes up,rear goes down.you just moved ripple.with wheels on back you fill in low spots Like road grader. Teeth are suspended between tractor and wheels at rear of teeth.eventually everything is smooth and level.Don't try to do everything in one pass.Give it a try! Ron






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 04-30-2010, 06:25 Post: 170455
greg_g



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 Landscape rake gauge wheels

Quote:
Originally Posted by laboiserie | view 170447
I can't seem to be able to prevent it from digging in too aggressively.

That's a function of the toplink. If you've adjusted the toplink to the shortest length possible - and it's still too aggressive - buy a shorter toplink. Assuming Cat 1, toplinks as short as 13" are available.

Sticking the wheels up front is at best counterproductive. The idea of a rake is to smooth things out. But every dip and bump that front mounted wheels encounter, will be matched by an equal rise and fall of the tines following them. Mounted conventionally, those dips and bumps should be gone (or reduced) before the gauge wheels get there.

FWIW, I now consider the big money I originally spent for optional gauge wheels - was completely wasted. I truly over-estimated their effectiveness, and haven't used them for years. It didn't take me long to realize that a combination of draft control and my hydraulic toplink - beats the hell out of gauge wheels any day of the week.

//greg//






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 04-30-2010, 14:21 Post: 170460
hardwood

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Location: iowa
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 Landscape rake gauge wheels

I've never had them and really can't think of any reason why I'd want them. With a bit if practice you can regulate it by eye with the three point lift lever.
The only way I can vision any benefit would be to have a caster type wheel like on the back of a rotary cutter way out back like five foot ot more then a loose three point top link. That might make it work like the real long land leveler machines they use in gravity irrigation fields.






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