Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder: Tractor Implements  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder: Tractor Implements -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 11-16-1999, 00:00 Post: 10166
Tim



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 Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder

Anyone know where I can get a hydraulic cylinder to replace the top link on my JD 4300? Sure would help when blading, then going to the other attachments.






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 11-17-1999, 00:00 Post: 10175
lsheaffer



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

I have hydraulic top links available. Closed hole to hole lenghth is 21-1/4". Category 2 holes, so for cat. 1 will require a bushing ($.81). Price of top link is $225. Contact me at sheaftractor@coiinc.com or 815-284-3226 for more info.






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 11-17-1999, 00:00 Post: 10177
Ted



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

There is no mystery to a Hydraulic top link, I have made 100's over the years. All you need is a hydraulic cylinder with a closed lenth of approx. 16"-18" and a pin dia. of 1"-2", some suitable size & length lines and fittings for your cyl. & machine. Your local equip. dealer will sell weld-on replacement "ball ends" for repairing top links (and the cylinder & lines & fitttings too likely). The total cost probably about $150. Take it all to your local welding shop, and, taa-daa, a hydraulic top link. Best of luck, and have fun.






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 11-18-1999, 00:00 Post: 10201
ARK



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

TISCO, which is probally the largest supplier of aftermarket ag parts and supplies, has these toplinks available. They have the toplinks by themselves or in a kit with valve, fittings and hoses. Kits are available for Kubota tractors which will work on many compacts. Check with your local equipment dealer to see if they deal with TISCO and ask to see their catalog.






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 11-18-1999, 00:00 Post: 10231
Mike S.



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

What advantage is there to using a hydraulic cylinder for the top link? The only advantage I can figure out is possibly the capability of adding down pressure for rear blades. Am I on the right track?
Mike S.






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 11-19-1999, 00:00 Post: 10233
tom



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

I also wondered "why."

Guess that you could change the height and blade angle on the fly. However, if
that's the use, I suspect that it would be better to have the hydrolics on the implement and an implement specifically designed for such use. A hydrolic top link may have the capacity to damage the implement or tractor.

But, I don't know much about these things and maybe I'm off-track.

Tom






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 11-19-1999, 00:00 Post: 10236
David



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

A hydraulic top link will NOT add down pressure as you still have a fixed top link and the lower links are still free to move up if this is a no down pressure tractor. The only difference is now the length of the top link can be changed without manually turning the toplink. This is very handy for scape blades and box blades. A hydraulic toplink can not damage the implement or tractor as long and the range of travel is within the normal adjustment range of a manual toplink






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 11-19-1999, 00:00 Post: 10251
Chris



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

It really isn't too hard to make one. I bought the cylinder (2"Wink yeah right, both link ends and the hoses at Central Tractor for less than $100. Then had to get the two male hydraulic ends from Deere. You can take the plate off of one end of the cylinder to weld the link end onto it, so you don't have to worry about damaging the packing. But on the rod end, you must wrap several wet rags around it to prevent damaging the seals/packing while you weld. Then, just paint Green Smile

Chris






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 11-21-1999, 00:00 Post: 10288
Bruce



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

Here's two examples of where I wanted a hydraulic center link: When operating a three point mounted snow blower, if you have to go down a road surface which abruptly pitches upward. Such as where a somewhat steep driveway intersects with the main road. The augers on some snow blowers will contact the pavement at that point. Being able to pitch the machine back at that point will keep it paralell with the pavement. Another use would be with a box scraper. The scarafier teeth could be set to cut in or not cut in depending on the position of the centerlink. Granted you won't get as deep of engagement of the scarifiers as can be had by manually adjusting them but it beats the heck out of manual resets.






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 11-22-1999, 00:00 Post: 10295
tom



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 Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cylinder

I'll face the steep driveway problem as well. The tractor and blower are waiting
for the first major snow fall.

Being able to change the top link on the fly does sound convenient, although I suppose that a tractor with draft control would solve the problem.

It may be my lack of experience, but I'm never too successful at changing the
bucket angle on the fly with my loader, and I'm not going backwards while looking over my shoulder. There's far fewer gouges in the driveway if I angle the bucket up a bit and float the boom.

I plan to angle the blower up enough so the skids will hit first anywhere on the
drive and depend on riding the lift control for up and down. Suppose I'll have
to go back to get any deeper pockets I leave with the loader.

Putting on a hydrolic top link sounds like a good idea if I ever get enough experience to operate such a thing without tearing up the drive or driving
into the ditch. Any tips on improving operating technique appreciated.

Tom






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Implements Forum

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