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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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 08-14-2003, 21:21 Post: 61872
Cpt.Dave



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Location: Merrimack,NH
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 jd1050

With the help of the JD mechanics and a friend and a volt meter we solved the problem with the engine coolent overheat light(bulb) not testing on start.There is a relay that actually looks like a flasher relay under the dash and it had failed.We heated the overtemp sensor and the light came on and it came on when we grounded the sensor itself.We tested the relay with a volt meter and it was dead.The relay only insures that the bulb is working.
The problem with the alternator light is still present. The voltage across the battery with idle at 2000 is anywhere from 11.8v to 14.85v.The alternator voltage is 14.8v. Could this narrow it down to the regulator?
cpt.dave






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 08-15-2003, 06:30 Post: 61883
BillBass



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Cpt.Dave-I have the same problem on my 950. The alternator light stays on. The light comes on full bright when I turn the key to on. But after the engine is started, the light goes to a sort of half bright. However, the battery stays fully charged. I looked at a schematic of the wiring. The lamp goes thru a relay that is supposed to get picked up and turn the light off when the engine starts and the alternator is charging. So I am thinking the relay may be bad. Since it is not a real problem, I haven't really pursued it.






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 08-15-2003, 06:40 Post: 61885
Art White



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 jd1050

Not knowing the deere alternator it sounds kind of like my old mopars when a diode goes out of the alternator. Try and find those seperate or at an auto parts store today!






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 08-22-2003, 20:52 Post: 62486
Cpt.Dave



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Bill,does the battery/alternator keep up with the lights on? I haven't checked the battery volts.with the lights on.
cpt.dave






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 08-23-2003, 08:43 Post: 62520
TomG

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 jd1050

Alternator/regulator tests are normally done by placing a known load on the system when the battery is known to be OK. The tractor is run for few a few minutes to allow the charge system to stabilize. The load usually is close to the rated alternator output. You can't be sure of getting conclusive test results otherwise. The lights and any other accessories likely aren't as large a load as would be used in a shop but it probably would be better than no load.

A simple test that might shed some light is measuring the battery drain when the tractor is off. Mine was around 5ma and I understand 50ma drains or maybe even higher are considered normal. That may help get at the diode problem Art mentioned. Manuals often give a test using voltage measurements but digital VOM's are usually sensitive enough to measure the current directly. When I measured mine, I pulled the accessory fuses one at a time to see if the battery drain decreased.







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 08-25-2003, 07:02 Post: 62637
BillBass



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Cpt.Dave - My tractor (and land) is 30 miles from where I live, so I rarely run my tractor at night. When I have though, the lights were bright and the battery stayed charged. I have not had a battery problem since I put a new one in over 2 years ago. That is why I think mine is a relay problem rather than a charging problem.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

Thread 61872 Filter by Poster:
Art White 1 | BillBass 2 | Cpt.Dave 2 | TomG 1 |




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