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 09-11-2001, 17:14 Post: 31768
cutter



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What tire pressure would you guys find suitable to run on a 2910 with belly mower and loader? The tires are R-4's and are unloaded. The machine is used primarily for mowing with some loader use in the summer.






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 09-12-2001, 06:59 Post: 31776
Art White



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Cutter let the air down to where you need it. The sidewalls on the industrial tires are quite stiff. Just make sure when you get it to where you like it that the gears go in and out easily for the four wheel drive. The side walls on the front should not be bulging when picking your normal loads. Tire pressure will be in or aroound 10 lbs or just a little under.






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 09-12-2001, 20:15 Post: 31780
cutter



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Thank you Art. I thought they were too hard. The rear were at 35 and the fronts about 37. I let them down to 20 all around yesterday, still seem plenty hard. Is the 10# for both front and rear? I like the machine. It is quiet, smooth and shifts smoothly. It seems not to need any pre-heat to start it this time of year either. I was a bit surprised to see that the tires were not the same brand from front to rear. Titans front and Good*Year back.






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 09-13-2001, 07:44 Post: 31784
Art White



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The tires are miss matched by brands to keep proper gearing between the front and rear. You might try going lower to my suggested 10lbs. you might need to go down lower yet. It depends on your uses as to what you need. If you do see the sidewalls flexing than don't go any lower.






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 09-13-2001, 19:44 Post: 31794
cutter



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I shall try the 10# Art, thanks again. Something you mentioned REALLY surpised me! Is there enough difference between brands of like sized tires to effect the gearing. What would happen if sometime in the future when replacing the tires, one shopped price over brand, not knowing a particular brand is required to maintain proper ratio?






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 09-14-2001, 07:21 Post: 31801
Art White



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Cutter the tire problem happens over and over again. I've been able to see it in the farm tractors over the last 20 plus years. The end results have been driveline failures of all kinds. When inflating tires they all are different as to there construction and there designs. I normally look for a full foot print on the tire after driving across some dust or water on a paved type surface. Yours to do that probably would have only had a tread in the center about 6" wide, not even using the full tire surface. To have the tire pressure as high as you did that is for inflation purposes for the tire to be mounted and seated on the bead.






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 09-15-2001, 14:51 Post: 31823
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 tire pressure

Art, please clarify what it is about tire inflation that has caused the driveline failures that you have seen. Also, if one has calcium filled tires, does a regular tire gauge give an accurate measure of the pressure? (assuming of course that you have the valve stem in the 12 o'clock position.) My tire dealer said that there is a special gauge calibrated for liquid filled tires but then said he had never really actually seen one.






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 09-15-2001, 15:29 Post: 31824
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 tire pressure

Mark, I have an air/liquid tire gauge; they aren't hard to find. I don't know that they're any more accurate, but they are supposed to last longer. However, if you put the valve stem at the 12 o'clock position and give it a brief burst of air first to clear the valve stem, then any gauge should work OK unless the tire is overfilled a bit with liquid.






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 09-15-2001, 23:16 Post: 31838
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That was a good guess Art. The gravel in my new apron is too soft to use your test, I had tried that and they sink in too far. By chance, the rear tires spun a bit when backing into the barn with the loader and no rear ballast (when entering that door there is a lack of fill that creates a cement ledge). The rear tires left black marks about six inches wide with 20 lbs. in them! I will take them to 10 tommorrow before I mow the first time with it. What a smooth running machine, I absolutely love it. The manual states not to run full throttle the first 50 hours, what would you recommend for mowing. Other ideas I have heard here all state to run the motor at pto speed or it loads them with carbon and does all sorts of nasty things. I stopped at the dealers this morning to sign the sales contract (he sold and delivered the TC a week ago and swapped them out before I paid him) and told him the deck wouldn't pin up. He sent a mechanic to my house immediately to rectify the situation, not bad service so far.






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 09-17-2001, 07:56 Post: 31846
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The driveline failure's that I have seen is from miss matched tires, same size just different diameters, and than compounded by the air pressure being wrong. When the units are in balance it should not take a lot of effort to engage or disengage the four wheel drive. When new there maybe some additional effort just because everything is tight. We often let the tires below the manufacturers rating to correct tire's that might be a different make. On the note of what tractor engine speed to use during the first 50 hours. The biggest thing I recommend is to vary the engine speed.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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Art White 5 | Bird Senter 1 | cutter 4 | DRankin 1 | dwilson 1 |




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