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 00-00-0000, 00:00 Post: 20779
Eric Edwards



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 1070 hard shifting gears

I bought a used 1070 with 250 rental hrs on it. I've put another 100 hrs on it in a couple of months but now find shifting to be difficult both between ranges and gears. I understand that the transmission is syncronised but does this mean that the shift between ranges is sync as well. I have asumed that I would need to be motionless to change ranges but now shift in between gears is also difficult. Is it possible to need a new clutch already or is the problem a damaged transmission. I have used this tractor hard but have been kind when shifting. Thank in advance for any input.






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 10-24-2000, 07:14 Post: 20826
TomG

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 1070 hard shifting gears

What you describe is normal for the manual transmission on my Ford 1710. The gears are synchronized and the ranges are not. However, the gears shift easily while moving, even between forward and reverse.

The tractor doesn't have enough hours on it for the transmission synchronizers to be worn or broken in ordinary use. I'd make a check on the clutch pedal to make sure there is free travel at the top. A dragging clutch would create the problem you describe. If the tractor has a 2-stage clutch, you might also make sure the PTO stops when the clutch is fully depressed.

Most clutch linkage adjustments are easy to find and are self-explanatory--at least compared to transmission repairs. I don't believe that my tractor has any adjustments on the shifting linkage itself, but maybe some tractors do. At least that would be another potential problem source with an easy fix.

If the clutch is fully releasing, you might try double clutching. It's not a fix, but it might help diagnosis the problem. With the hand throttle set for idle speed and moving forward; depress the clutch, shift into neutral, release the clutch and give a burst of RPM with the foot throttle, depress the clutch and shift into a lower gear. Going up a gear is the same, but without the burst of RPM.

Double clutching helps match the speeds of the input and output transmission shafts, which is what the synchronizers do. If a transmission shifts easily when doubles clutching, but hard without, the transmission synchronizers are suspect. However, each gear has its own synchronizer, and ordinarily all gears wouldn't develop problems at the same time. A dragging clutch is the best and easiest bet.










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 10-26-2000, 20:05 Post: 20908
Eric Edwards



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 1070 hard shifting gears

Thanks TomG for the explaination. I will try the double clutch test, but by your post it sound as if the clutch either needs an adjustment or to be replaced. I have noticed now and again a slight grinding feeling on the clutch pedal just recently. Would this back up the bad clutch theory? It sounds like it would to me. I am wondering if I can ruin somthing by using the tractor in it's present condition. To answer another question you had. Yes, the PTO stops when the two stage clutch is fully depressed. I'm assuming that this PTO clutch is independent of the drive system and can be OK even when the 1st stage is cooked. I'm not looking forward to splitting my machine in half so I hope an adjustment will help. I have a tech manual and will try that. Thanks again, Eric in ME






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 10-27-2000, 08:14 Post: 20933
TomG

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 1070 hard shifting gears

As far as I know, clutch pedal free travel is the only adjustment for a double clutch. The adjustment is usually a threaded rod and nut (secured with a cotter key) in the clutch linkage. About an inch of free travel is a typical setting. Too little free travel and the pilot bearing may drag, and the clutch may partially release when hitting bumps. Too much play and the clutch may not fully release, which could cause hard shifting. Anyway, it's an easy thing to check.

The fact that your PTO stops when the clutch pedal is fully depressed probably indicates that the clutch is fully releasing, and clutch drag is not the answer to the hard shifting. As far as I know, double clutches are serviced and replaced as single units. I suppose it's possible that a transmission clutch could drag when the PTO clutch releases, but such a condition wouldn't be adjustable. Transmission clutch drag could be checked directly (IN 2WD) by blocking up the rear wheels (one wheel will do if you trust the differential to release), putting the tractor in gear, and pushing in the clutch to see if the rear wheel(s) stop turning.

If the grinding you describe is when the clutch is released, it could be the pilot, or throwout, bearing. Too little free play, or a broken return spring could be the explanation, and that's something that should be fixed. If the grinding is when the clutch is in, it also could be the pilot bearing. The bearing on some tractors is exposed and has a grease zirc that is easy to miss when greasing a tractor.

If clutch drag isn't the answer, about the only other thing I can think of that wouldn't require a major tear down is the shift linkage itself. Most transmissions are operated by control arms on the side of the case. It's possible for arms or linkage to be bent, and it's possible that there are adjustment or lubrication points in some linkages. Going through a repair manual is the best way to sort out the transmission linkage.

In terms of whether continued operation would be hard on the tractor; it would be pretty irresponsible to say. I will say that my Ford 1710 is currently down because the 4wd won't engage. It's probably a broken shifting fork, and probably will require removal or the differential assembly to repair. I noticed after I bought the tractor that the 4wd lever was welded back on to its collar. I imagine the previous owner was having a hard time and just jammed the 4wd into gear. Now, it's me that has the repair job. The best I can say is that tractors are not designed so things have to be jammed to get them to work. If they don't work easily, there could be something mechanically wrong, or maybe poor operating technique. Either way, it's best to attend to the problem.






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 10-27-2000, 11:10 Post: 20938
TomG

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 1070 hard shifting gears

Guess I could add that there are obvious safety issues in blocking up a wheel and running a tractor, but I was delayed. About the time I posted the above, a truck came unannounced to haul away my tractor for a probably very expensive repair.

I guess clutch drag could be tested (in 2wd) by blocking up a wheel, and trying to rotate it by hand with the transmission in neutral, and then with the transmission in gear by with the clutch in. There shouldn't be much difference in how much effort is required. Another way might be to find an incline where the tractor barely rolls with the transmission in neutral. If it doesn't roll with the transmission in gear but with the clutch in, then the clutch probably is dragging.

I'd probably do it by blocking and running the tractor, because I tend to go for direct observation of things. However, I'd keep my safety wits about me.






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 10-28-2000, 10:08 Post: 20964
Eric Edwards



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 1070 hard shifting gears

Tom, I will check the adjustment right off but but anything more intensive will unfortunately have to wait. The tractor is located on a building site. No cover, no electricity, basically in the woods. I will carefully try your recommendation for ascertaining the problem and will have to make a judgement call as to whether to keep using it or not. Perhaps by snowfall I'll have the foundation capped over and electricity for lights etc. In the past I've found the JD manuals to be excellent, even for a backyard mechanic like myself. Do you think a clutch replacement is to ambitious for the average person to attempt? Thanks again, I'll keep you posted although it may be awhile.






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 10-29-2000, 05:06 Post: 20978
Roger L.



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 1070 hard shifting gears

Eric, Tom, I have to join this party....not only do I like the 1050/70/90 series JDs, but nothing is more fun than long distance diagnoses! To begin with, it does sound like the clutch/throwout bearing combo is going west. But having said that, I don't see how it could be the clutch at 250 hours unless the DPO (Dread Previous Owner) favored semi-deliberate abuse. An example of that would be keeping the clutch pushed in while reving the motor to speed up the loader instead of taking the time to shift to neutral. A tractor clutch ought to go just about indefinitely. 2500 hours would be more reasonable than 250. BTW, Eric, could you elaborate on what you mean by "hard shifting"? My guess is that it is physically difficult to move the shift lever enough to get it to go from one gear to another when standing still, cluch disengaged, with the engine running. Do the gears grind or is it just hard to move the lever? In other words, does it feel like the rotating clutch is dragging on the transmission shafts, or is the lever just having a hard time moving gears because the shifting dogs are not sliding easily on the shifting rails? Trying to shift with the engine running vs shut off will help make that determination... It can be subtle.
Right now, my first guess would be free play adjustment. Second guess would be that the oil in the transmission is low or gone. Third would be that the clutch pressure plate or flywheel has grown a surface coating of rust from sitting with the clutch engaged...This being a known problem with this tractor in wet climates and can cause the clutch to drag and even freeze up. Fourth would be the clutch or shifting dog rails. No, this job is not beyond the average mechanic at all. Few jobs are.
Where are you located? It would take any good mechanic only a few minutes to hop on your machine and tell you whether you need to take a closer look at the clutch or not.






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 10-29-2000, 06:55 Post: 20980
TomG

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 1070 hard shifting gears

Roger, nice to have you in this. Party hardy. Your experience here is much more extensive and recent than my own. It would be nice if the problem was a clutch adjustment or transmission linkage problem. I'm not sure much else can be accessed with doing the splits.

I generally agree that almost anything is within the capacity of a backyard mechanic. My major tear-downs and repairs are on trucks, not tractors. I never got myself into much trouble by just plowing through a repair manual, and I did manage to touch just about everything that moves in my old Econoline one time or another.

There is a 'but,' however. I had my 1710 trucked off to the dealer, rather than tear it down myself, because I don't have a shop. When I started doing major tear downs, I found that I kept needing 'generic special tools' (snap ring pliers, drifts, plastic hammers etc.) that most casual wrenches don't have. A few genuine special tools were needed as well. I also found I couldn't anticipate all the parts needed. Every time I couldn't do something easily with the tools I had, or needed a part, I'd just go and buy one. My trouble is that now I'd spend a lot of time trying to find all these tools again, if I even still have them. And, it's a 20-minute drive to the nearest stores. None of them are parts or tool stores. In addition, I'd be working on dirt in a 25' x 14' arctic shelter tent. It does have electricity though. I think that various shop jacks and stands are needed to split a tractor. An over-heard hoist would be nice. Those, I know I don't have.

In my case, I'm pretty sure that the differential assembly has to be removed to fix my 4wd problem, which can be done without a split. However, I'm also pretty sure that I'd be inviting disaster trying to do it in the middle of the country at this time of year and without a reasonably well organized shop. Ironically, we rebuilt our camp this summer, rather than an equipment shed. About a month ago my wife tells me that she thinks I need a shed too. I was lazy and wanted to declare the building season over. Several weeks later, the tractor breaks, no doubt due to the DPO. Sure wish I had a shed.






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 10-31-2000, 11:52 Post: 21047
Eric Edwards



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 1070 hard shifting gears

Thanks to all for your interest. I had a couple of busy days and am only now checking my e-mail. I also haven't been back to my building site do to the weather here in ME and therefore I don't have much to add. I have been building a ICF foundation for my house and woodshop and will hopfully pour the concrete into the permanent EPS foam forms in a week or so. My hope is to put some pockets in place for steel to support a nice chainfall for projects like splitting tractors etc. I've never had a heated, covered space to work in and am happy just thinking about it. But right at the moment a teardown is out of the question. Roger, to answer your question, there isn't any grinding of gears pe se but a grinding feeling coming though the clutch pedal. It feels like sand or metal on metal. The gear shift does not want to be pushed into the next gear. The same with the range shifter. When I first got the tractor in the spring it shifted very easily, not at all like my 750 which would grind gears if you were impatient. I will try to shift when the tractor is shut off as well and report back. Two separate emails sent to me have stated that they had to split their JD tractors because of shifting problems only to find the clutches in good shape. However they found the splines that everything runs on either rusted or gummed up and that after a cleaning, the problem was solved. I have a hard time understanding how things can get oxidized when hyd oil is in constant contact with the parts but the machine has been out all summer and we have had a lot of rain. I'll check back when I have more info. Thanks again.






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 10-31-2000, 16:26 Post: 21055
bud in oh.



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 1070 hard shifting gears

Eric, there is no oil around the clutch packs or clutch shaft and it's the clutch packs that slide on the splines that could be rusted and or gummed up.In fact if you look under the sheild on the right side of tranny by the brake peddles you will see a little screen. You can remove the screen and shine a light in and see the clutch assembly. The problem is clutch dust and moisture. budinohio.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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bud in oh. 1 | Eric Edwards 7 | Harold Koenig 1 | Kenny 1 | Roger L. 5 | TomG 5 |




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