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 06-12-2000, 18:37 Post: 17138
Rob Munach



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 Rotary Cutter Sharpening

My Bushhog SQ600 roatary cutter met a rock today and dinged up the blades. The sharp portion of the blades is bent upwards in small areas. I was thinking that I would use my 4 1/2" hand grinder and grind off the dings and sharpen the blades while I am at it. Is there any tricks to doing this?






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 06-13-2000, 09:52 Post: 17153
Murf

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 Rotary Cutter Sharpening

Two tricks here, first keep your fingers clear and the blade firmly clamped in a vice or something, secondly and most importantly, try to grind the same amount of metal from each blade so as to maintain the balance of the machine. Don't worry if it is not exact, but the closer the better. Best of luck.






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 06-14-2000, 05:38 Post: 17172
TomG

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 Rotary Cutter Sharpening

Somebody else mentioned quenching to keep the blade cool. High-speed grinders are good for mild steel, but they heat up the stock and can take temper out of tool stool. I don't know what kind of steel is used in cutter blades, but some care could be taken. Slow speed stone wheels with water drip is what I used for wood carving tools.

I'd use a mill file to take down the major dings, taking care to maintain the original edge bevel, to minimize use of a grinder. I don't believe the cutting edges have to be perfectly straight. I'd also probably rig up a crude knife edge balance for checking the blade balance. If I had to improve the balance, I'd take smaller amounts of material off the butt end of the blades, or outside trailing edges, rather than the cutting edges.






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 06-14-2000, 13:03 Post: 17180
Murf

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 Rotary Cutter Sharpening

Tom has raised a valid point, HOWEVER, with the amount of material it sounds like you need to remove, and the amount of steel in a bush-hog blade it is pretty unlikely you will heat them up enough to even make them warm to the touch. Best of luck.






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 06-15-2000, 09:03 Post: 17208
TomG

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 Rotary Cutter Sharpening

Yes, Murf is probably right. My point is a more general idea. Minimizing use of grinders on anything but mild steel is a good idea.

The point of contact between the wheel and steel is pretty hot. However, on a mower blade, the cross-section of the cutting bevel is pretty thick and would act as a decent heat sink. On a tool like a chisel, the temper is greater and the cutting bevel is thinner than a mower blade. It's real easy for a high-speed grinder to take the temper out of the cutting bevel of a chisel. The tool then is ruined for serious work unless re-tempered or a new bevel cut (slowly) behind the softened area. Either is far too much work for most tools. It's better to have a slow speed stone wheel or a very gentle hand on a high-speed grinder.






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 06-15-2000, 09:09 Post: 17210
RegL



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 Rotary Cutter Sharpening

This probably wouldn't pass osha standards,But usually just block up my mower and sharpen the blades without removing them with the hand grinder.Like anything else involving tractors,you have to be carefull.






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 06-15-2000, 19:03 Post: 17230
Stanley J Krasovic



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 Rotary Cutter Sharpening

I've made more little rocks out of big rocks with my brushhog than I can count. The blades have never been sharpened, look like they could use sharpening, yet still do the job very well. I've been advised NOT to sharpen the blades. Right now, the brush, saplings, etc..., are busted up quite nicely. I was told that sharpening the blades would result in the brush being cut cleanly, with sharp ends sticking up that would puncture tires very easily.

Stan from NE PA






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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Murf 2 | RegL 1 | Rob Munach 1 | Stanley J Krasovic 1 | TomG 2 |




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