Ford 1510 rear end: Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild  -- Tractor Maintenance Discussion Forum and Review Ford 1510 rear end: Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild -- Tractor Maintenance Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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 05-13-2000, 23:00 Post: 16260
Joel Palmer



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 Ford 1510 rear end

I need information on the rear end of my tractor. The lever on the right side of my tractor that is used to lock both wheels will not disengage. It is almost impossible to turn the traactor while pulling.






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 05-14-2000, 06:21 Post: 16266
TomG

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 Ford-1510-rear-end

This is a little long, but I'll quote (omitting references to drawings etc.) from my repair manual for 13 - 1710 and offset models.

"... The differential lock sliding coupling is free wheeling on the differential case hub. Depressing the pedal rotates the shaft and actuating pin, causing the fork to move toward the differential assembly and at the same time compressing the return spring. this action causes the coupling to move toward the differential. The lugs on the coupler index with the mating holes on the differential housing and plate. Continued pressure will push the lugs into the holes of the thrust washer and the left hand side gear locking the side gear to the differential case. when the pressure is released, the return spring moves the fork and sliding coupler to the left disengaging the differential lock..."

Manual identified as SE 4301 584 (REV. 696). the manuals are available from New Holland, and a pretty good idea to get one.

The best bet for a simple solution is a broken return spring. You might be able to disengage the lock by rotating the linkage in the return direction by hand. Having the tractor in neutral and having somebody rock the tractor by hand while attempting to disengage the linkage might help.

An ominous note in the manual is: 'To repair the differential lock linkage, the differential case must be removed.' Sounds like a lot of work. If you get it disengaged, it might be easier to get along without it until some other shop work is required.

I believe that attempting to steer with the lock engaged is hard on the drive train.






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 05-14-2000, 10:03 Post: 16267
Kim Hartshorn



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 Ford 1510 rear end

I bought my 1500 used from a dealer and shortly after had the same problem. The dealer service guy gave me the following advice to try before bringing it in. (Which he said was not a problem...good dealer) Get a pry bar or something that you can wedge between the foot pedal piece and the transmission housing and lever the pedal shaft out from the housing about 1/2 or so. This pulls against the spring described in the previous post. At that point spray it up real good with WD40, if you have the straw try getting the WD40 right down the shaft into the housing. I am assuming that the 1510 rear end is pretty much like the 1500...it sounds like it from your description. This fix worked well for me, it took about five minutes and I havent had any problems with it since.--good luck--Kim Hartshorn






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 05-14-2000, 12:01 Post: 16270
RickB.



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 Ford 1510 rear end

A corroded lever where it passes thru the rear end housing has been well addressed. If the lever returns properly, but the difflock does not disengage, one of the locking pins has probably broken loose from the ring they are welded to. This will require a fairly deep trip into the bowels of your 1510 to repair. Also note that if you manually raise the pedal too far, the diff lock will re-engage as if the pedal was depressed. If you suspect a broken/floating pin, jack up the left rear wheel, insure the pedal is in disengaged position, and rock the rear wheel back and forth, the offending pin should drift back in place, after a while. If this works, stay away from difflock use till you are prepared the repair. The pin can not get out of its bore, and should cause no problems, other than the remote possibility of a random engagement.






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 05-14-2000, 17:48 Post: 16274
RCH



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 Ford 1510 rear end

This happened to my 1910(1986 model with only 600 hours or so).It had happened several times before but eventully popped back. I`d do as described above to the lever with the back wheels jacked up to relieve any pressure on the mechanism.
I had to take the top of the differential off (right under the seat where the 3 point lift arms rotate). Nothing was broke,it was just wedged and popped right out. The differential case was loaded with metal shaving though, which, of course, I cleaned out. You could see into the transmission and it to was loaded with shaving that I cleaned up with flushing and a magnet on an extentsion rod(bolt retriever) as best we could.The magnet was hard to guide as it stuck to every thing.
My advise is get a replacement gasket for both the top of the transmission and differential, a serious long fexible neck funnel for refilling after draining the fluid so you can get rid of all the fillings.A local Ford tractor dealer had the same thing happened to one they sold and it too was jamed with nothing really broken. Oh yes,get "oil-sorb" and big enough containers to collect the 4 gallons or so hydraulic fluid plus whatever you flush with(Diesel I assume)to avoid a big messy clean-up. It took me around 3 hours. Clean gasket surfaces scrupulosly. 50 years ago there were transmission and crankcase drain plugs that had a magnet built in.They would have been overwhelmed.When I brought the tractor used the clutch and every thing else was out of adjustment and I bet no 50 hour serice was done.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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