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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10966
bo



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 JD870 rops lights

Here's an interesting question. Got an extra set of tractor lights that I am thinking of mounting on the rops of my jd870. Getting juice to the lights is real easy with a quick connect to the wires that are already on the factory installed rear flood lights. This would mean that the new rops lights would operate with the switch on the dash. The wires going to the rear flood lights look to be about 18 guage. The new rops lights meter out at 2.6amp draw each. The question is , if I hook up the new lights to existing wires, will they overdraw and melt the wires? Should I run the new lights through a relay and independent wires {not my preference} ..the alternator puts out 20amps and this seems to be boarder line adequate. What do you think? bo






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10973
Don in OR



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 JD870--rops-lights

Bo, you should be O.K. with the existing wiring, and it should already be protected at the fuse box. The only problem you may have is battery drawdown with all the lights on. The 870's alternator will put out 20 amps at full throttle only. At idle they put out almost nothing. I've had this problem with add-on cabs with extra lights, heaters, etc. Hopefully one more light than factory spec. wont cause you any problems, but I'm sure if you ad any more you will run out of juice. Good luck.






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10975
MichaelSnyder

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 JD870--rops-lights

Bo,
Having had our dealer install 2 JD worklights mounted to the rear of our 4100 at purchase, I can't say I've seen a problem yet. The lights are also controlled from the dash. JD does offer an alternator upgrade kit (35amp)for a premium price.






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10979
bo



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 JD870--rops-lights

Mls- welcome back, you were missed, at the expense of a fued, you synthetic boys got whupped. You missed a hot one, dig up the old posts- you'l find it entertaining, especially about the difference between petroleum and ky jelly and oil being like golf balls and basketballs and 100000mile oil change using jojoba oil. The problem is that I already have two lights installed on the back the back of the tractor and I want to add two more additional lights high on the rops and tap the rear flood light wires. Wire size is sort of an issue cause the rear floods draw about 2.5 amps each and I intend to add two more at 2.5 amps each. Add to that the hazard flashers and the headlights and I'll bet I'll be pushing close to 20amps, the output of the alternator. Another poster mentioned that all I would do is run down the battery at best and that's ok as long as I don't fry any of the wires from overdraw. I think you only have one set of rear facing lights as I do presently. Ah, what the hell, unless someone tells me otherwise, I'll do what I usually do, do it then wish the hell I didn't although most times I get lucky. Hope you enjoyed your weekend and check the posts for the past week. bo






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10982
Larry



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 JD870--rops-lights

Bo, according to the ARRL Handbook 18ga. wire can handle 16 amps. continous duty in open air, and 10 amps. continuous duty in cables or bundles. 4 work lights at 2.5 amps each is 10 amps which puts you at the limit of current carrying capacity for #18 wire in a bundle or conduit. When you add in head lights and 4 way flashers you will probably be at or just over the alternator limit. Hope this helps.






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10988
MichaelSnyder

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 JD870--rops-lights

Darn it, looks like I misread your posting again. I'm not sure about the mention to the alternator only putting out 20A at max RPMs. Most Alternators I'm familiar with have max output between 1/4,1/2 throttle. At any rate, OMO, I think you'd be pushing the wire harness beyond what it was designed to handle.
Not to mention the increased load resistance and power losses associated with wires of that gauge. Generally a 20A fuse is used on a 10A "operational" load. Although I'm sure someone, somewhere will prove me wrong or state otherwise. But I have managed to remember the .707 rule from College. Its also my understanding that ALT's fry from prolonged use at "maximum" output, or at the point where your battery is drained and can no longer assume the additional current requirement. Either way, Excessive heat is usually the eventual killer. I doubt your in the market for a battery, but an Optima Gell Cell might ease things a bit. Having used them in High drain applications, OMO they are well worth the extra money. And they've come down a bit in price. I know you don't want to hear this, but I think running a new line from the Battery will not only provide a cleaner, safer solution, but it gives you additional flexability of selecting which lights you need. (fronts), (rears), (Fronts & Rears). Course, if your like me, you'll need em all on..all the time.






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10990
MichaelSnyder

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 JD870--rops-lights

I forgot to mention the biggest reason "I" would seperate em. Sometimes the Fronts in the hood are annoying while using the loader, nor do the do much when the bucket is blocking them. It would be nice to turn them off, and only use the ROPS lights. Nice find Larry. I'm also looking to do what Bo has mentioned..Only I'm gunna wait to see if something bad happens to Bo's unit before doing anything. Just kidding.. We'll figure it out.






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10991
JJT



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 JD870--rops-lights

Are these new lights going to face rear? Don't you already have enough light in the back. My vote, (I did this on my Kubota l3710), would be to run new wire and fuse to a new switch, run the lights yu want and not overrun the alternator. I've got front and rear lights on the Kubota and they have their own fuses and switches. Blowing snow in reverse with the front lights on is impossible, (too much glare). But they are great for field work.






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10994
bo



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 JD870--rops-lights

jT--Nope-new lights are going to face forward just like the headlights. the rear floods are ok but with the bucket and primarily with the snow plow, the two block out the headligths and alot of my snow plowing is done in the dark. Although we have had no snow in Western N.Y. {florida of the north}. This warm weather is unusual. I agree that a sperate wire and switch is probably best although not the easiest to do. Gotta think on this one. Thanks bo






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 12-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 10997
b



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 JD870--rops-lights

Larry- thanks for the info. on amp. carrying capacity of 18g wire. Superior info. Most usefull. Hate to admit it but the post from Mls about going direct to the battery with a switch is something I should have thought of, I did this on my golf cart and it works fine. Both you guys jogged my memory and I'm appreciative. {ain't gonna tell this to mls- it'll swell his head} {and,no, I don't use the golf cart for golf afore you gentlemen says something ungracious} bo






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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b 1 | bo 5 | Don in OR 1 | JJT 1 | Larry 2 | MichaelSnyder 5 | Mike S. 2 | RobertN 2 | Scott 1 | tom 1 | turfman 2 | Vince 5 |




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