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BenW
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2002-10-16          43897

I am going to adapt a truck snowplow to the front of a compact tractor and wonder if I would be happier with the way it will push snow by doing a direct attach to the front of the tractor or using it on the front of the loader. The blade is a 7.5' Hinniker and the tractor a McCormick 45 HP 4 WD. I see some advantages/dissadvantages to both.

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Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2002-10-17          43907

There have been some problems with puting blades on the loaders. The further out front you put a blade, the more leverage it has to push the front of the tractor to the side when the blade is angled. I'm not sure I am familier with your tractor from what you have said as to how much it will affect you but I am aware and caution future owners when they are looking on the loader blade hook-up. My own thoughts are is that it is great when you can still leave the loader on and have a hydralic angle blade out there for quick plowing. If your McCormick is the old Case-IH 40 pto horsepower I would think you might be able to control it. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2002-10-17          43916

We run 8' truck plows in place of the bucket on 40hp class Kubota's with turf tires, the machine usually wins the battle. The blade on the loader is far easier to plow with since the visibility is outstandng, and you have the ability to tilt the plow for scraping, or raise it completely for stacking or pushing the tops off piles or drifts. Do yourself a favour though, DON'T use the bucket curl circuit for the blade angle unless it is the absolute last option. You will find that by adjusting the 'curl' circuit you can balance the amount of weight on the front wheels from almost nothing (loader in float position) to the full weight of the plow & loader in the air and the blade just barely touching the ground. The convenience factor FAR outweighs the cost of a couple of hoses from the remote to the front of the loader.

Best of luck. ....

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Art White
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2002-10-17          43940

Murf, you are right about the tilt. Here we normally get some good snowfalls that might give us a foot easy overnite and if the drive has any length to it we will get in trouble with a blade the size you are talking. If my memory is right you are with the L series which is what I had some trouble with. The fellow I think might still have his blade for sale that we did rig up like yours. ....

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kay
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2002-10-17          43942

BenW
I have a western plow on the front of the tractor, and feel that you can run a bigger plow when it is closer to the tractor (than it would be out on the loader arms). Do a search on "Curtis Plow" on this site and see if that provides you with the information you are needing to make the decision. I have a 7' plow on a Deere 4300. I like this size because when angled it has enough footprint to get the snow beyond the wheels on the dump side. When the snow is real deep, the brakes may be needed to help steer, but normally lifting on the blade slightly adds enough weight, along with positraction and being in 4wd. I designed and had fabricated a quickhitch that permits attachment and removal quickly, so the loader can be attached. That is a fast job with the Deere 4000 series setup. ....

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BenW
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2002-10-17          43947

As far as the tractor goes it is on order, and I decided after many days of research to go with the new McCormick compacts that are being introduced this year. The model is a GSH 45. The machines are just starting to show up this month. They are made in England. I almost bought a TC40D New Holland, but, after going to the farm progress show and seeing what they have for a product, I decided on the McCormick. For a lot less money, more horsepower(44HpYanmar Diesel), what appeared to me a bit more massive frame and a few more standard features it seemed a better buy. The USA parts distribution center is also within 70 miles.
The tractor weighs without loader at ~3600 lbs. and is a 4 wheel drive. I'm having a Westendorf loader installed. I also had an extra remote added so I could use that for angling the plow if attaching to the front of the loader is what I decide. I was concerned that with the plow fully angled on the loader it would tend to spin the tractor. I had a couple spins with it on my pickup and it hair raising. ....

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Farmerbob2
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2002-10-21          44048

Hey Guys,
I was looking to do the same to my Ford 1710. I have even looked into it on a snowplow site that i found. The one concern that was brought up was the worries of bending the loader arms. The other was hooking up to the hydraulic cylinders and how easily they would be bent? I am not the type that uses my machines as a ram rod and beat the heck outta them. I try to be careful with how much i push them. I wasn't looking to hook up the power angle. I was looking to take a 8' blade and make it into a push box. I think the weak point is going to be the tires breaking loose and not having the traction needed. I was told turf tires would be better than Ag tires, even though typically on a truck you want thinner tires than wider. Still playing around with the idea. Just thought i'ld post my thoughts...thanks guys!! ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2002-10-21          44049

Be VERY careful when making your own plow out of other parts. A commercially produced snowplow will always have some form of safety built in against hitting an obstacle. Most plow manufacturers use one of two methods, first is that the cutting edge can roll under the blade if it encounters something solid enough to overcome the springs holding the cutting edge in position. The second method is to spring mount the entire plow blade with a pivot at the bottom, when an object is hit the entire moldboard folds forward and rides over the obstacle.

Without something like this the entire force of an impact is transfered to the machine. If you're lucky you will only damage the loader arms and not something more serious and/or expensive. I have seen some pretty unpleasant outcomes over the years with people using rear blades for plowing snow, ranging from bent/broken 3pth's to a fractured skull, broken collar bone & bad whiplash caused when the operator was thrown into the ROPS when the plow caught something and the machine came to an instant stop & the driver couldn't.

Best of luck. ....

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Farmerbob2
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2002-10-21          44052

Murf~
Your previous post said you run 8' truck plows on your Kubota....I was wondering how you have it rigged up to your loader? I'm not trying to start an arguement, just trying to get as much imput as i possibly can on the subject. I wanted to keep the trip springs on the setup i was designing, just not sure exactly how yet. I know the push box design has a trip edge or they use poly edges. I gotta take a free day and sit down and look at the plow to see what possibilities i can come up with. ....

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BenW
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2002-10-21          44056

Thanks for all the information on the replies. I notice the Curtis Blade has an option for a relief valve on the angling hydraulic lines. Is that needed or just extra insurance?
As long as we're on snowplows: I saw something at a Farm Progress Show that was interesting. It was a manure plow made out an old farm tire cut to scrape a floor. It could easily be made and looked like it could plow snow. Maybe a poor man's snowplow! The tire would have some give if something solid was hit. ....

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TomG2
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2002-10-22          44065

Bob: I just wonder how well a 1710 is going to do with an 8' blade that can't be angled?

I use a 5' loader bucket on my 1710/turfs on gravel before freeze-up and a 3ph blower after freeze-up. Angling the bucket down and trying to use it like a dozer blade doesn't work very well and makes the loader prone to damage if something is hit. It's not a very deep bucket and snow piles up in the top of the bucket and raises it when float is used. Without float it takes divots out of the gravel. Generally I use the bucket rolled back and in float. Used in this way it does leave some snow but the bottom of the bucket supports the loader weight so it doesn't sink into the unfrozen gravel. That works OK for light snows, but snow doesn't come off the ends of the bucket very well. For heavier snows, the bucket just pushes snow ahead of it until the traction break, which isn't very far. Then, I have to use the loader to stack the deeper snow somewhere.

Another problem with a bucket is that it can't be angled so snow does come off both ends rather than get pushed to one side. I guess that's OK if snow only will be cleared for one blade width, and old style 'cattle-guard blades are still seen around here. Most drives are wider than 8' and several passes would be needed. A second pass with a straight blade puts a snow windrow back in the centre of the drive. The same thing would happen if trying to push back birms along the sides from previous plowing. For plowing in regions that get significant snow, the main skill if figuring where to put plowed snow. It has to be pushed back early in the winter so there'll be enough space to plow more in the spring. I don't think that trying to push back birms with a straight blade would work very well.

Anyway, I don't understand 'push-box' designs, but if it would work similar to my loader then I'd wonder if it would get the job done and also keep my happy doing it.
....

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Murf
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2002-10-22          44081

I don't take offence very easily, patient old Irish-farmer stock.

We use the pallet-fork mounting bracket as the base for the snowplow mounts. There are two sets of brackets, one on each side of the quick-tatch plate, which are identical in size & spacing to those used by the manufacturer for connection points on a pickup mount. The chain which is normally used to lift the plow on a truck-mounted unit comes back to the top center of the quick-tatch plate. The plow itself is completely stock, this way any plow can be used on either truck or tractor. In fact several of our machines stay onsite for the entire season, when the plow operator arrives at the site they drop the plow from the truck, hook up to it with the tractor, plow the sidewalks, etc., then put it back on the truck and help the other trucks with the rest of the plowing. Cost effective & convient.

As for the cut-up tire as a plow, I have seen several used for snow, HOWEVER, while they work well, they are also end up being VERY heavy units. Since a tire has little stability a steel frame is needed to support it under load, and a tire large enough to clear any reasonable amount of snow is usually more than you could lift that far out. On a big payloader or farm tractor they're not so bad. The snow does tend to stick inside them but usually dropping the loader a few times clears them I'm told.

Best of luck. ....

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Farmerbob2
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2002-10-25          44192

Murf~
That sounds like an awesome setup that you have there. Have you ever triped the blade while you had it hooked up to the tractor? If so, how hard did it seem on the tractor? What brand plows do you run? I just bought a new 8' Western ultramount for my truck and can't wait to see how it works with the pivotpoints. I think if i get a used plow for the tractor i might rip of the steel cutting edge and put a poly edge on. Most plows found around here are either Meyers or Western so they don't have the trip edges. Still haven't had a chance to search for a blade yet.....guess i better find time soon!!!

Tom~ To answer your question about what is a "push-box"? Most often you see them on big FEL and are used in large lots. They are basically a plow blade with ends to keep the snow from going off the sides. I sent away for some information from a company that makes a 8' version for skid steers and compact backhoes. Hopefully i'll be getting the info soon. I think they have a trip edge rather than a conventional trip blade and that is how they keep from busting the plow or whatever they may hit. I really dunno how else to explain them to you. They seem to be a bit pricey for the smaller versions. If i had the equiptment and the contracts for a large lot the 14' or 20' version would be great to use for the price!! ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2002-10-25          44201

Bob, we run both trip-edge and foldover designs. We had been using Meyers trip-edge plows but have been using Western 8' to 10' Pro's now. As far as 'tripping' plows yes it happens pretty regularly, it is NOT a sudden impact type of hit, it is more like the way you would slow down hitting a deep patch of mud. From my experience I think the trip-edge type is better on tractor since it doesn't loose as much snow rolling over as a when an edge rolls under for some reason.

We also do have several Pushers on the larger pieces (TLB's & loaders) but there not quite as much fun somehow.

I have had several requests for pics. of some of these 'home-brewed' pieces, however I don't have sever ability to post them, I'm happy to share them, maybe Dennis will host them for everyones benefit. ;->... Hmmm Dennis, whaddya' think ?

Best of luck. ....

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Carl M in VA
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2002-10-25          44205

I have used a Meyers ST-90 (7'6") blade on both a 1710 and a Kubota L3410. When I had the 1710 I mounted it in the bucket using the Meyers bracket bolted to the bucket. On the Kubota I mounted the bracket to a pallet fork mount. Both work well, but they make the rig quite long w/ the blade hanging out in front of the loader arms. I use the remote valve for tilt and lift w/ the loader arms.

When I get the time and motivation I am going to weld up a new mount to hook directly to the tractor using the loader mounts. This will allow me to use the loader valve for lift and tilt and shorten the rig up.

In over ten years of plowing a mile of private road and several driveways I have never bent or broken the loader arms or mounts. ....

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Farmerbob2
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2002-10-25          44209

carl~ I talked to another guy on another site about how he also put the mounting brackets inside his bucket to keep it simiple to disconnect and use the loader bucket if need be. Personally i'm not so sure i like that idea, but everyone has their own preferance. Glad to hear that after all that time you have not had any problems with bending your loader arms. I think in the next week or so i'm gonna go hunting for a plow blade and start playing with my ideas ....

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Farmerbob2
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2002-10-25          44211

Murf~ I've heard that the trip edges are nicer, but have never had the chance to use one. I'm glad to hear that the impact is not that hard, makes me feel a lot better. That would be great if you or someone could get some pictures on here. I'll keep you updated once i start my setup and how it works out. This site is great!! ....

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Carl M in VA
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2002-10-27          44278

The bucket mount system is simple and I know it is used extensively on loaders that push snow for the towns in MA where I grew up. Thats where I got the idea. If you do go that way make sure you place the mount as close to the front of the bucket as possible so the blade can lift up and down to follow the ground contours w/out being held up by the bucket.

When you go looking for a blade check out the want ads. At least in my area used blades are pretty cheap. I paid $200.00 for the plow, electric pump, and mount. ....

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Farmerbob2
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2002-11-01          44531

Ben~ Have you decided on which way you're going to go with mounting a plow? I was just curious if you decided yet or not. I picked up a 7.5' meyers blade this past week. Probably going to take some measurements and try something next week. Good luck ....

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BenW
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2002-11-04          44602

Farmerbob2, I think I'm going to try putting it on the front of the loader without the bucket. Probably somewhat similar to the Curtis setup. Since I'm getting the tractor right at the beginning of snow season I believe I can adapt it quicker to the front of the loader. I do like the idea that if I need the bucket it would be a fairly quick change over. I'll have the blade set up as a quick attach.
I think a direct attach to the tractor would be best if I only had to use the blade for the winter. I think having to put the loader back on to use the bucket would get old after a few times even though it is supposed to be quick attach.
With the way my plow is built I won't have to cut any metal on it to attach to the loader. So if I change my mind, at least I won't have to undo anything there. ....

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longlook
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2002-11-07          44731

I have been running a 1710 with a 7 1/2 foot snow blade for several years without problems. I attached it to the loader arms and have welded chains between the top center of the blade to welded hooks on the top of the loader arms. The blade tilts using the hydraulics. I have plowed 4 foot drifts (2 feet at a time) without any difficulty either straight on or with an angled blade. This arrangement allows you to raise the blade nearly 6 feet in height to really pile it up if you need to. I run ag tires on all four wheels without chains and do not have traction problems. I have gotten it stuck on top of drifts as these are not the heaviest tractors around but if I am careful, there isn't much that the arrangement won't handle. ....

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PKtoolman
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2002-11-10          44832

Hello snow time again.I mounted a 7-6" meyers plow to the front of my l2250 kubota so as it can be removed with 2- 3/4" pins and one 1/2" nut it takes roughly ten minutes to hook it all up, with the angle hoses.The frame of the plow was cut after placing the frame in the bucket and measuring to make sure it would angle without hitting the bucket then a length of 2" square tubing was fitted with two ears welded 90 degrees to the tubing , which are paralell to the sides of the bucket and two 3/4" holes drilled thru both the ears and the bucket I also welded two 1/2" thick plates to the outside of the bucket for strength.the pins were in stalled and a piece of 1x4 -u channel was welded under the original plow frame to push against the cutting edge so as to not put the force on the pins and a strap mounted tru it to keep it from rolling when the loader arms were lowered.I took hy hydraulic from the accesary block under the seat to operate the two way valve for angling the plow. we push some heavy snow here in the hills of central Ma. no problem so far.
....

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mainiak1
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Posts: 22 Maine
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2002-11-12          44907

Does anybody has pictures of their plows on the tractors? How they have modified the buckets to accept plows?
It would be much appreciated.

Norm ....

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kay
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2002-12-05          45745

Note to BenW
Have you a snow plow on your loader or tractor now? So far, I don't have my plow on, as we have only been getting a dusting of snow. Not far enough south to get the good snows, or along the lake for the lake effect snows. Just putting up with the global warming single digit lows. What part about global warming do I not understand??? ....

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benwes
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2002-12-06          45817

kay, I still don't have the tractor yet. It originally was supposed to be here the 1st of December. I've got a feeling it may not be until sometime in January. I'm getting tired of dreaming about it. The rate it's going I may have all next summer to get it ready for next winter. Ben
....

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K-Rider
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2002-12-07          45842

I can host some pics of your plow hookups on my website. Just email them to me with the discription you want next to the pic.

As for me, I'm looking at an 8' fisher to mount to my FEL on my 4310. I'm going to mount the plow to the fork frame.(minus the forks) I am thinking about using the curl curcuit to angle the plow. I'm not to fond of welding on the loader cross tube. I have another idea.

Take a piece of pipe that will fit in the tube. Weld it closed on each end with a piece of solid stock. Weld a short piece of chain to eack end of the solid. Next, weld a clevis hook on each side of the fork frame to keep the curl curcuit from curling.

I havent tried the design yet but I will re-post with some pics and a testamony of how it works.

The lift chain for the plow will be hooked into a hook on top of the fork frame. This seems to be the best way to keep the plow floating without floating the loader arms. ....

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Mark Everline
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2002-12-10          45993

I have a 6 1/2' Meyers poly plow set up for my TC33D New Holland. I made a bracket that fits inside the bucket using six 3/4' stainless bolts, four in the bottom of the bucket and two in the back brace cross member. to the bracket I welded a front mount plate for the 2 meter plow. I can pull up to the blade and hook up in less then 30 seconds by using two latch pins and cotters. The angle is done manually by using 3/8" number 70 transport chain attached to where the hyd cylinders bolt on. I use two trailer hitch pins with clips and two 3/4" bolts to secure the chain in the four holes. then I angle the chain and pin it in place. I used this method all last season without a hitch. I use a seven foot LIC rear HD blade with this set up and do 3.6 miles of roadway in my development and four circles in less then one and a half hours. These plows and the bucket set up are for sale now since I can't plow anymore do to an accident this past September. I'm in Delaware if anyone is interested. ....

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Mike2000
Join Date: Aug 2004
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2002-12-12          46044

I've read with some interest about mounting a plow on a compact. I have owned one before and always thought about an easy way to attach a plow. I have an alternate solution that some may like. I now own an articulated bobcat(similiar to a wheel loader-they no longer make these), which has the bobcat quick-tach system. I use a 6' blower, 8' Fisher plow, bucket, and forks. There is a compact attachment manufacturer that makes a quick-tach system that allows use of standard skid steer attachments on a compact aong with your modified original bucket. (I lost the name since my computer crashed). The Fisher angle blade and frame is attached to an available blank quik-tach plate. It takes about 60 seconds to change any attachment from 2 levers and the hoses. Any standard truck type plow can be mounted. It does extend out from the machine and can act as leverage at extreme angles or from trying to push large loads of snow but for the most part nothing stops an 8000# machine , especially going forward. I plan on adding forward angled wings to the plow since it can handle more. The length of the blade will also make a difference when angled. The loader arms on a compact may be lighter duty but the operator should obviously know the limits of his machine and not overuse it.

The box style blade as mentioned above is more like a non- angle plow with end plates. I would assume it doesn't tend to dig in like a bucket but I can see a use for areas like parking lots where you can't wind row off to the side but need to clear the whole area.

Mike
....

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benwes
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Posts: 3 Iowa
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2002-12-16          46189

I've seen a few attachments that show the whole tractor-plow setup, but wonder if anyone has some closeups on the actual mounting to the tractor? I'm more interested in the direct-mount to the tractor. I've seen some with and without a support bar to the rear of the tractor. Is it necessary if there is enough beef up front? Is 1/2 in thick 15 inces wide U channel dropped down from the front mount of the tractor enough? Weld two U channels side by side? Tractor has four bolt holes directly on front of tractor. Length of channel probably 24 inches. Thanks, Ben ....

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davegoodine
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Posts: 12 maine
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2002-12-29          46696

twisting those plow arms is a reality.. you know you can adapt a complete truck snowplow set up to the back of a tractor. i welded some pins to the frame mount on the plow frame thatnormally would be bolted underneath the truck... it kinda works on your neck but at least you have the bucket when you need it.. i run the quick switch rams with a remote i normally run my logging whinch off.. a friend of mine twisted his loader arms on a 50 horse massy industial last winter...it wern't pretty! ....

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thefarm
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 5 Maine Central
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2002-12-30          46708

I have a 2120 Ford 40hp and I mounted a 8ft Fisher plow in the bucket.I cut the mounting bracket off from an old truck and put a piece metal behind it and drilled two holes into the bucket and bolted this to the back side of the loader.I do have to angle it by hand,but it moves easily on the edge of the loader.Really works well.I used this for 4 years.Works great for pushing snow into a place that you can't drive into.The loader sticks out a couple feet from the end of the tractor and the plows sticks out a couple feet too.I have a BX1800 with a rear PTO blower now.The wife prefers this over plowing. ....

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