New Tractor & Snowblower To Buy??: Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review New Tractor & Snowblower To Buy??: Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 09-15-2002, 01:13 Post: 42397
shonya



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 New Tractor & Snowblower To Buy??

I'm purchasing my first tractor and snowblower, and would really appreciate some advice. I must plow 3/10 mile fairly steep dirt road, most of which has no area to store snow. My truck with blade just isn't up to the task once burm is 3 feet (which can be one storm)- have gotten stuck many times. Can get 2+ feet/storm easily, all types of snow. Want front mount. Have been reading forum, but still would appreciate suggestions since I haven't purchased the tractor yet. Wonder if the Kubota BX22/00 is up to the task with the snowload and steepness? Other options < $20-25K? Is strength a factor in driving these tractors? Help! And thanks!






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 09-16-2002, 07:48 Post: 42462
Art White



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I thought that I needed a high snowblower to do my driveway here in central NY do to the snowfall we get. I found that by using a snowblower I didn't have the drifts that piled the snow in when blowing and it was a far easier task with a blower. Is your drive paved or stone? The BX series has been doing a great job here for the owners in this area but what other uses do you have?






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 09-16-2002, 08:49 Post: 42472
DRankin



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Lets see..... lots of different kinds of snow.... big dumps…... 6200 feet elevation…….. California..... I'm guessing Lake Tahoe?
If so, let me know I might have a couple of specific recommendations.
As far as the strength factor, once the machine has its implements attached, strength is not a factor. The only compact tractor I know of that does NOT come with power steering is the bottom on the line Kubota B7400. The steering on the BX22/00 is almost effortless. My wife, who unlike me, is definitely not built for off road use, has no trouble operating all the controls on our Deere 4100.
In terms of traction, you might be amazed what a 4WD compact can do, and if you choose the right tires you can put on tire chains for added traction. Mark (Carson City)






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 09-16-2002, 16:34 Post: 42495
MRETHICS



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You have some good advice here already, only a couple things I can ad to it.

Useing a snow blower on a gravel surace sometimes causes alot of grief. A stone wedged in the wrong place shears a bolt. Stopping to change several shearbolts will eat up alot of time and you will get tired of it.
We have customers here who have had both good and bad luck with snowblowers on gravel. The difference seems to be the type and size of gravel. If there is alot of loose stones and it is not packed well or frozen solid, yo may have some problems.

Skid shoes set fairly high on the unit will help somewhat. But what happens is, the tractor spins it's wheels and digs down to the stone, bringing up the rocks and putting them back on top of your freshly cleared surface waiting for the next time the blower comes that way.

Snow blowers work best on concrete or asphault. If you have a gravel drive you may want to haul in a load of finer grade stone and get it packed down before winter rears it's ugly head.

If there is a John Deere dealer in your area, you may want to check out the X585. It's 4wd. It has a gasoline engine, so getting fuel may be a little closer to your house, and you won't have to worry about deisel fuel gelling in cold weather. It will not be as efficient as a diesel eng. But it may be more convienient. Also, you can get HDAP (Heavy Duty All Purpose) tires. They are more aggresive than turf tires, yet genteler than Industrial R-4's or Ag R-1's.

Just my thoughts

Rock on!






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 09-18-2002, 11:08 Post: 42578
shonya



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Thanks for the replies, Art, Mark and Mrethics. To answer your questions, Art and Mrethics, the road is mostly dirt with the occasional rock here and there. Not paved, not gravel. Mark, you are close - not Tahoe, but Lake Davis. Similar conditions. Am going to Reno to purchase. You mentioned the "right" kind of tires to put chains on - what kind of tires would that be? I think I've narrowed it down to the JD4210 or the Kubota 2410. Any brand preferences? Reliability is key as I'm a mechanical idiot and can't work on myself, nor do I have a trailer to haul. Not much on the Kubotal 2410 on this forum yet - still too new I guess. Thanks for your help!






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 09-18-2002, 15:59 Post: 42586
DRankin



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Some things to consider:
1)If you want a new Kubota I have some dealers names in California who will quote you prices a couple thousand less than the prices in Reno. The 2410 is a great tractor and you can’t go wrong with it. The 2410 and the 4210 are similar in horsepower only. The 4210 is quite a bit bigger and almost double the weight of the 2410.
2)Consider getting a rear mounted snow blower. That way you can leave the front-end loader attached and you can use it to scoop up and move the berms back when they get too high. You can save about a thousand bucks on a new rear mounted blower over a new front mounted blower. Yes you have to drive backward, but you will soon find that is no big deal.
3)If I could show you a slightly used tractor with a loader in the same weight and horsepower range as the 2410 and a slightly used rear-mounted blower for about $14K, total price would you be interested?
The right tires would be those that do not have deep lugs that the chains can slip behind and therefore not come in contact with the road. I think a turf or industrial tire would serve you better and will work well with chains. If you tap on my name to the left of this you can connect with my e-mail address if you have any questions or interest.






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 09-18-2002, 16:08 Post: 42587
DRankin



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Forgot to add: That little used tractor equipped with a new front blower would be about $17K






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 09-19-2002, 06:24 Post: 42619
TomG

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No place to park snow is a very good reason to have a blower. Most of them should blow reasonably dry snow 30' or so.

I've never been sorry I have a 3ph blower, but I don't clear near as far as .3-mile either. Despite the blower I use my loader quite a bit for snow clearing and wouldn't want to have to switch a front blower and loader frequently. The way I use them would take about a dozen swaps each time I use them. Still .3 of a mile is a way and I also find that driving in reverse slows me down in moderate snows. The blower clears snow faster than I'm willing to drive in reverse. I'm glad I have four reverse gears because it gives me a decent choice of ground speeds, although that isn't an issue with HST.

I blow on frozen gravel and asphalt. Until it freezes, the blower skid shoes sink in and make rock showers. I clear the first few times with the loader since it doesn't sink in if curled back so it rides on its bottom. The loader also removes loose stones and junk that would go through or jam the blower. The gravel freezes solid and a bit of snow pack builds up, which makes a good surface for blowing until spring. Sort of the same deal with asphalt. The skid shoes don't sink in but they might scar the sealer coat until there's a bit of snow pack.

My drive slope isn't that steep, but I don't have traction problems with the blower using unloaded turfs. I also have adequate traction for the loader work and even breaking up the snow (turned to ice) pack in the spring. I think I'd experiment before committing to chains. I think there’s a discussion in the archives on how to use chains with ag tires. Chains are as good for improving steering as they are for increasing traction. Sometimes I wish I had a bit more steering, but I manage the traction w/o chains just fine. A front blower or blade requires more steering than a 3ph blower and loader.






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 09-19-2002, 16:39 Post: 42654
MRETHICS



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3/10's of a mile......hmmmm 'bout 1500 feet more or less

if your drive is 10 ft wide, and you use a 47" snowblower on a Deere X585 that would take about 3 passes, 20' would take 5 or 6..

Plus...the x585 is small enough you may be able to use it on your sidewalks...

maybe that helps with your perspective

you are not compareing apples to apples with the models and brands you specified.

The Deere 4115 would be more in line with the Kubota 2400

Just my thoughts








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 09-23-2002, 12:29 Post: 42809
Big Eddy



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I would suggest that the tractors you are looking at would work fine. 4wd is essential, HST very desireable. Decide whether you want a front or rear blower. Front is easier to drive, but more specific to the tractor, prevents you using a loader as well, and probably cost as much as the rear mount plus loader together.
Expect a Garden tractor to run a 4' blower, a ~25HP Compact a 5' blower and 30+ HP for 6'. Typical drives are 12-15' wide or so, so a 4' or 5' blower takes 3 passes with a return trip to clean up.
Think about the wind direction and frequency. You can not blow snow up-wind without a cab! Start on the upwind side and blow downwind each pass. If the drive parallels the prevailing wind plan on extra trips so you can always blow downwind.
Having done the lawn tractor -> Garden Tractor -> Compact thing, I would suggest you don't undersize and buy the X Series. They are fine machines, but for the length of your drive, bigger would be better. Think hard about your other uses for the machine as well. If a loader is at all considered the Compact is the way to go.

Others have talked about tires and gravel and there are lots of posts on those subjects in the archives.

Big Eddy






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

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