Curtis plow: Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Curtis plow: Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

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 03-01-2001, 16:33 Post: 24875
cutter



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I have had a chance to use my Curtis Plow more and have decided that unless I can adjust the down pressure on the loader in the float position, I am going to take a loss and sell it. I completely lose steering control, even with chains on the front (as we all know,the brake pedals are on the wrong side on a N/H to use them). Also the feet dig in way too much. Does anyone know if the pressure is adjustable on the Boomer? If it isn't, have I got a deal for you!






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 03-01-2001, 16:41 Post: 24877
JeffM



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Cutter, what kind of surface are you plowing? I have thought about buying a Curtis plow next winter, but your comments have me wondering. I have a JD4400 and the down pressure in the float position seems light with a bucket, but how could I really tell until I put the plow on it? Just in case you decide to sell, what width is your plow? Does it have the hydraulic angle? You live in upstate NY, right? What county?






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 03-01-2001, 16:45 Post: 24878
cutter



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Five foot with hydro turn. It is a stone driveway in Wayne county.






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 03-01-2001, 17:07 Post: 24881
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 Curtis plow

I have a Western plow on the front of my 4300, and find that:
1) individual brakes are needed at times,
2) running in 2wd (not 4wd) helps with steering control,
3) lifting slightly on the blade adds some weight for better steering,
4) and on gravel, do not use the shoes on the blade (drive is frozen solid).
This is an awesome snow plow and this winter was one to test it!

If the curtis plow is out on the loader, there is likely too much torque to keep the blade from 'steering' the tractor. You'll need lots of traction from the rear wheels (with weight at least) and ride the brake to steer.






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 03-01-2001, 19:41 Post: 24888
Jay Tedrow



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 Curtis plow

Cutter, Had the same problem with my B 2710,but the cure is relatively simple. First disconnect your upper loader arms, retract them and tie them off to the lower arms. Weld a clevis hook to the center of the brace between your loader arms. Run a piece of chain from the plow bracket to your new hook. (To put your mind at ease you could just shackle the chain around the brace to see how easily it works.) You will see how the plow can now truly float. It works great just doesn't look quite as professional. If this is too wordy and confusing, just post again with some way to get in touch. Good luck Jay






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 03-01-2001, 21:52 Post: 24894
JeffM



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Jay, do you have any way to post a picture of your setup?






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 03-01-2001, 22:13 Post: 24896
cutter



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Jay, that sounds like an answer. To ditto the last post, do you have a picture you could e-mail? Thanks, Cutter.






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 03-01-2001, 23:26 Post: 24899
Anthony M. Parente



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 Curtis plow

I have a 7' Curtis Plow with the power angle on a JD4700. I do not let the plow float due to the constantly changes surface conditions, driveway to crowned roadway.I tried to let the loader arms float but the plow lifted the front end when I pushed the snow drove from the driveway into and across the street. The same thing happens with the dirt bucket when using the float position as the load on the bucket increases. I loosened the tension on the springs which helped a lot. However, I prefer to operate the snow blade like a dozer blade. I keep light down pressure and monitor the contact of the blade with the road. The plow does have a center chain which is attached to a hook welded to the loader cross tube. This chain is not functional after the plow frame is secured to the loader. I am satisfied with the Curtis Plow set up.






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 03-02-2001, 05:58 Post: 24905
JJT



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 Curtis plow

Anthony, As long as your upper loader arms are attached to the plow frame the entire unit cannot float. The downward pressure that causes the front of your tractor to lift is what we are trying to overcome. The "float" position whether with the bucket or plow seems to be as much concept as reality. Cutter, Sorry but I have no way to post a picture, so we will have to find another way around that problem. Another addvantage of this way of installing the plow frame is that it lets me rock the plow blade back on the shoes when trying to push snow across the lawn, or when then gravel starts to thaw in mud season, which may start tomorrow here on the coast of Maine. Good luck, Jay






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 03-02-2001, 08:58 Post: 24913
Murf

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The problem is caused by two things acting in combination, gravity & friction, neither one of which is adjustable unfortunately. However having said that, you CAN limit their effects. The reason you lose steering ability is that the load on the tractor from the snow against the blade and the blade against the ground exceeds the traction of the front wheels and their ability to turn the tractor. The solution is VERY simple, lift the blade slightly. I have modified our plows (which are 'truck' plows fitted to the quick-tach) to do this automatically but with a little practice as Anthony mentioned, but a very simple, inexpensive valve and some hoses will do it for you. Mount a valve horizontally on the loader frame, as far away from the tractor as possible (outboard if you will), then connect the control rod, through a vertical bracket to a skid shoe (this will now act as the float in your toilet tank does), the valve should be connected (with a by-pass type valve, to allow manual over-ride for lifting over curbs, ditches, stacking, etc.) to the loader lift circuit. Adjustment is accomplished through lengthing or shortening the rod connecting the valve to the skid shoe. Best of luck.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

Thread 24875 Filter by Poster:
Anthony M. Parente 1 | cutter 6 | Jay Tedrow 1 | JeffM 4 | JJT 1 | kay 1 | Mike Spencer 1 | Murf 2 |




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